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ceiling
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# Posted: 12 Feb 2013 03:32pm
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Hello, I am new to the site. I recently bought some land in southern CO, and am looking to start a build this summer. June hopefully. Quick question about foundation. Im sure some of you have read that book or E-book about that guys who built a solar homestead for under 3 k i think it was. I cant remember his name. but he used deck blocks for his foundation. What are some thoughts on this? Is it safe for a long term cabin?
Thank you in advance.
-Austin
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ceiling
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# Posted: 12 Feb 2013 03:32pm
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forget to mention, the cabin will be 25x25. 8 foot walls. maybe a loft in the future. so fairly large to some standards.
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 12 Feb 2013 04:06pm
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The areas of CO I am familiar with have some fairly strict building code adherance. I would check with the county or whatever authority has jurisdiction over building permits.
If you skip that and just go ahead and build, and IF the deck blocks do not meet code, then you will have a lot more trouble and expense than if it had been checked and done to code. As I said, the areas I know, will not permit deck blocks for a residence, but I don't know them all.
Always best to begin with checking the local agency.
IMO, something that large needs a proper foundation in the interests of long term use.
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bldginsp
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# Posted: 12 Feb 2013 05:37pm
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The problem with using pre-cast piers for a foundation, legal or not, is stability. Just placed on the ground they are above the frost line, which means the soil under them will freeze and thaw, freeze and thaw. Every time it does they move and shift. Ten years later they are no longer in a horizontal straight line and your building is out of whack.
One solution to this, again, legal or not, is to dig 12" holes as deep as the frost line, fill with wet concrete, and wet set the piers in the concrete. Now your bearing point is below the freeze and thaw cycle.
I built a small A frame to keep snow off a pop up tent trailer, and on the two sides I placed piers on dirt every 30 inches or so, to distribute the weight as evenly as possible. I don't expect that building to last as long as my cabin, which will be on a full spread footing per my permit.
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oldgringo
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# Posted: 12 Feb 2013 05:45pm
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And then, there's wind...
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 12 Feb 2013 06:11pm
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Quoting: oldgringo And then, there's wind...
Funny you bring that up. I was just thinking that there are many areas in CO that are rated for even higher than the normal 100 MPH.
There are many reasons I really do not like pier and beam foundations, let alone pier and beams that simply rest of the ground. They are fine for a shed and even there tie downs are a good idea.
Do you mind mentioning the county at the very least?
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MtnDon
Member
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# Posted: 12 Feb 2013 06:46pm
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100 mph. 25 ft long wall, 12/12 pitch roof = approx 11,000 lbs wind force total
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ceiling
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# Posted: 12 Feb 2013 08:55pm
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yes yes. So just from reading this, i am not longer thinking about deck blocks. Im going to do it the right way. Ill dig the hole. set up those rolls and fill em with concrete. Sorry to waste a thread. (terrible first impression) 
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 12 Feb 2013 10:33pm - Edited by: MtnDon
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Quoting: ceiling (terrible first impression)
not at all. You've not done this (build from scratch) before I suspect. 
LaMar is the guy's name; Lamar Alexander. There are a few things he has promoted that one should really take long hard looks at, if one wants a long lasting, safe home. Just my opinion, mind you.
I would suggest that as you develop your plan you show, talk and ask questions about it a lot before building. Don't start designing from the bottom up right away. Set the size, height, loft or second floor, or not... etc first. Then the house loads are known and only then can a proper foundation be designed. But also check with the local building officials and see what permits you might need and what building codes they use and enforce.
Best o' luck
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Rovingarcher
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# Posted: 13 Feb 2013 07:18pm
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Not sure what is allowed in your area.To me, the footings and piers, and the roof are the lifeline of any dwelling.If I was concerned with any frost heaves, or perma frost in ak, I'd put out the money to buy a 12' piece of coil rod from a const.Supply(1-1/2x 12')cut it in 16" pcs, and have a welder (certified) weld beam pockets on top of the 16" pcs Apply on each pc, a washer nut made for the coil rod, and one plain heavy duty nut.In your sonotube pier,during the pour, install an 18" pc of abs or pvc, 18" with duct taped ends to the center of your pier in the pour.Before installing the brackets in the pvc,put a 6x6 plate washer on top of the pier hole.The amount of piers depends on your cabin size.Now you have the cabin built on these steel rods(65000) strength lode, and any shifting your cabin may do can be corrected with a pipe wrench.If it would make you feel better, you can always shim each beam pocket after leveling the place,just remove the shims to re level.Install camp trailer levels to each side and you have it whipped.
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ceiling
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# Posted: 14 Feb 2013 07:37am
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speaking of frost, how do you determine the frost line. I went off of a chart that compared the Air-Freezing Index to the frost depth. It came to 36-48 inches. Does this sound about right? seems pretty far down. Although colorado does get cold.
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George
Member
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# Posted: 14 Feb 2013 09:20am
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The county building dept has requirements for your area.They know.
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VTweekender
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# Posted: 14 Feb 2013 09:25am
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Quoting: ceiling 36-48 inches. Does this sound about right?
That does sound correct, maybe go a bit deeper even.....pour concrete footers 10 inches thick and about 16 inches around/ or square with rebar in them, under each pier.....let them dry a couple days before setting piers and backfilling.....
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George
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# Posted: 15 Feb 2013 12:38pm
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8' walls are ok if it's single story If I were having a loft, I would put the bottom of the loft joists at 8' and go with 10'walls.More standing room in the loft if you go 12/12 pitch.
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