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jjlrrw
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# Posted: 20 Jan 2013 11:00 - Edited by: jjlrrw
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We purchased a cabin late summer of 2011, this spring / summer thinking of replacing the siding. The current siding is cedar over lap about 6-7" wide, with 3/4" black boards behind it for the only insulation. The current owner has painted it a number of times and the last time with latex over an oil I think. It is peeling and many bubbles everywhere, I don't want to put in the labor to try and strip it as it will take way to long.
I am thinking stripping off the cedar and black fiber board, insulating then OSB (depending on type of siding) and new siding.
Just can't decide on the type of siding... thinking 4x8 sheets of T-111, I will also need to do the soffet to box it in.
Any ideas pictures? Here is a picture when we first got it, all the moss has been cleaned up I will also remove the block chimney when doing the siding.
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bldginsp
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# Posted: 20 Jan 2013 12:09
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A rented power washer might pull enough of the peeled paint off of it for a satisfactory base. Can think of a lot of other things I'd want to spend my time and money on than replacing intact siding, IMO
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 20 Jan 2013 13:20
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Paint bubbles and peels for a reason. That reason is water, water coming out of the wood when the wood is heated by the sun. That makes the paint bubble, the skin break and the paint peel.
More than likely much of the water is coming from the cabin interior. Water vapor in the interior air makes it's way through the wall and it is all downhill from there. Water could also be getting behind the siding because of lousy caulking or leaks someplace. But, I'd wager there is no vapor barrier and the moisture migration is an issue.
So, IMO, you are on the right track. Pull the old siding, install a vapor barrier against the interior wall, install insulation and reside.
You might want to consider sheathing the exterior with XPS foam panels instead of stuffing the walls with fiberglass. You can get more R-value that way though you also have a little more work with having windows and doors to build out. But if the siding is to be removed that is actually not all that hard. Just need to preplan the entire process.
What you use to re-side is a matter of personal choice and budget. I like lap siding and do like Hardi. The LP Smartside also has a place. I've used both.
One thing that can help with heading off future problems with wood based lap siding is the use of a rain wall technique. That's where the exterior sheathing is covered with the weather resistant barrier and 1x4 or 1x3 vertical furring strips nailed to the studs to provide an air space. Vent at bottom and top; screened to use CorAvent strips. The furring strips are required if you want to use foam sheets and lap siding. In that case the furring strips are fastened to the studs with structural grade screws.
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Martian
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# Posted: 20 Jan 2013 13:58 - Edited by: Martian
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About a year ago, we did a job remodeling a small 120yo house that had only cedar over the studs. Rather than strip the siding, which was still solid, it was decided to strip the plaster off the interior walls and spray closed cell foam into the cavities. That really stiffened up the outside, insulated the heck out of the place, created a vapor barrier, and made it almost soundproof. Then, we sheetrocked the walls.
To me, its easier/cheaper to sheetrock the inside than to re-side the outside. A good pressure wash, some scraping, and a little sanding, should give you a good surface for painting.
One of the problems with re-siding a structure that was built with lap siding in mind is that, sometimes, the framers weren't overly concerned with stud placement. An inch one way or the other may not have mattered to them, but it can ruin your whole budget when you're working with sheet material. Not to mention, trying to keep the lines evenly spaced when using T-111.
I would consider leaving the outside intact.
Tom
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larry
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# Posted: 20 Jan 2013 21:00
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Quoting: MtnDon and do like Hardi.
that stuff is great. it is a cement product and very weather proof. this is the type of panel you put on if you never want to reside again in your life time. price wise it's on par with t-111 and it looks like wood.
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bldginsp
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# Posted: 21 Jan 2013 13:35
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Hardi panel, or other non-combustble siding, is a must in the Western fire country. I'll be using Hardi for soffits, fascia, siding and trim. Trying not to expose anything combustible, except rafter tails. You can buy Hardi panel in 4x8 sheets and rip it how you want, they also have standard siding in 8 and 12 inch widths, either 10 or 12 feet long. 1/4 " thick and brittle as can be. It's a pain to instal but worth it.
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bobbotron
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# Posted: 21 Jan 2013 15:57
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Quoting: MtnDon Paint bubbles and peels for a reason. That reason is water, water coming out of the wood when the wood is heated by the sun. That makes the paint bubble, the skin break and the paint peel. More than likely much of the water is coming from the cabin interior. Water vapor in the interior air makes it's way through the wall and it is all downhill from there. Water could also be getting behind the siding because of lousy caulking or leaks someplace. But, I'd wager there is no vapor barrier and the moisture migration is an issue.
Could just be a crappy paint job too? Poor paint combination, poor surface prep?
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buckeyebuck
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# Posted: 21 Jan 2013 20:20
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we are building a cabin and we used metal siding on walls and roof.
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oldgringo
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# Posted: 21 Jan 2013 20:41
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I have used steel, because it was expedient, cheap, and fire-proof, but I did it grudgingly. Call it a pact with the devil.
Steel will never look like it belongs in the woods...will always look like it was built, and didn't grow there, like a mossy old board and batten does.
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jjlrrw
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# Posted: 21 Jan 2013 21:09
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The hardi siding looks nice, may consider for our house as we plan to re-side that also. For the cabin it may be too much $$ after adding all the extras in trim, soffet, T-111 is about the same price per sq but the trim will be much less. I don't think I want to go metal so still looking, thinking...
We are cost sensitive on the cabin, I need to keep the cost vs value at a good distance for resale. This cabin is short term long term will be to build on our property.
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buckeyebuck
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# Posted: 21 Jan 2013 21:09
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Here are some pics of our cabin. I think the dark brown siding and the green roof look good in the woods.
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dvgchef
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# Posted: 21 Jan 2013 21:21 - Edited by: dvgchef
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I used T1-11 and it is easy and fast to install.
And my cabin looks it It has all the charm of anything easy and fast. Good the next morning, but after a month or two I wish I had made a different choice.
Try to save your siding - you have been given some good ideas.
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