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TomChum
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# Posted: 23 Nov 2012 04:22pm - Edited by: TomChum
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Anyone know a way to drill a VERTICAL hole down (or up) thru a stack of logs? I have about a foot below for the drillmotor going up OR about 8 inches above, (above wall, below the roof boards) to drill down. I could increase that a little using an angle drill.
I would like to drill through the entire 8 foot wall so I can hide a wire up to the loft. Drilling 4 feet would be OK too (for the light switches) Hole size can be small (1/4") I will be running wires for LED lights. Once I get to the middle log I can easily hide wires in the chinking to go horizontal. If I can't drill I may be able to hide small (LED sized) wires in the zigzag corner chinking.
- A method to drill larger 1/2" - 3/4" holes is interesting too then I can run a couple 12g trunk lines.
This sounds just about impossible but I thought I'd ask.
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fpw
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# Posted: 23 Nov 2012 05:26pm
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Milwaukee Hole Hog and a long auger bit will work for the big holes provided you have no insulation between the logs, if you stuffed wool in lateral grooves your are pretty much stuck.
To drill with the logs installed, you are going to have to remove the roof or cut a hole to get access You won't get it with a foot of clearance.
You can always run a nice looking conduit inside the building.
Or your could punch a hole through the wall and run the conduit up the outside of the building.
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TomChum
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# Posted: 23 Nov 2012 06:55pm
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A conduit is more feasible than a hole in the roof. I have hand-split shingles, scared to disturb anything up there. Didn't think of running it outside.
Still hoping for a magical mehod, I'm always surprised by what some people have up their sleeves.
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Martian
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# Posted: 23 Nov 2012 09:22pm
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I take it you have space underneath the floor? Can you run the wires in that space and bring them in through the floor.? The switch wires could run behind your door trim to switch height and feed the outlets using conduit or some other channel.
I'd look at a lot of options before punching a hole in the wall.
Tom
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GomerPile
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# Posted: 23 Nov 2012 09:39pm - Edited by: GomerPile
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I did a hole 28 inches to install a light switch. I had about 14 inches under the wall to maneuver in. I put holes in the replacement log sections but forgot to drill holes in the existing logs...doh!
I bought a 1.5 inch spade bit and a couple of extensions. I ended up using a chop saw and grinder to make the extensions shorter by an inch or two.
I drilled the hole until I ran out of room and attached the next extension leaving the bit in the hole. I had to disassemble the thing several times to get the shavings out. I found that slow drilling and blasting the hole with compressed air let me drill without getting all clogged up. My biggest concern was the drill walking and I would end up coming out the side.
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TomChum
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# Posted: 23 Nov 2012 10:47pm - Edited by: TomChum
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Yes controlling the direction after the 2nd log would be difficult. 28 inches is a long way. You'd have to hold your mouth just right!
Quoting: Martian switch wires could run behind your door trim to switch height
And I can go up the door and there's only 2 logs (and one 'center) to get thru to the top, which I can do with extensions. Now THAT's the way to go - THANKS!!
Once I get to the top I can stuff a wire between the roof planks to get around to the lights and to the loft.
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Montanan
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# Posted: 24 Nov 2012 01:40am
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We ran all of our wiring up through the floor- nothing through the logs. We utilized baseboards, trim pieces, back of a corner closet, etc. to conceal the wires.
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Malamute
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# Posted: 24 Nov 2012 01:09pm - Edited by: Malamute
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Theres a couple ways to do it that I know of, though mostly you need to plan ahead. I had 4' and 6' drill extensions made. I use auger bits, they are far superior to spade bits, as they clean the chips from the hole and dont need to be forced in to drill, they have a screw point to draw the bit in. I also discovered that a longer auger bit is best, as it doesnt clog up with chips like a short auger bit does when the bit is shorter than the log diameter. Having to pull the bit back to clear the chips is bad, especially when the extension comes off the bit down in the wall. I drill down through all my walls to run all-thread through them to tie the walls together near the corners, and for steel stabilizer pins next to windows and doors, and "X'ed" through the ridge and purlins. Planning your wiring while building helps, though with a little creativity, you can route wires 'round about and keep them fairly clean looking.
If I do it again, I may have auger bits welded to the extentions rather than fight with the tiny set screws that always tend to come loose.
You can chisel grooves into the corners to lay the wiring in (will look zig-zag going up the joint) then chink over it. That also works next to door frames etc. Just make a little wider chink joint. I try for narrow and deep with the wire in sideways. This may be more useful in your case, since you dont have room for long bits. Running the wire in a chink joint makes them invisible, but can add to the length of the run. Not a huge problem, but takes more wire to keep it clean looking. Always remember, make your wire a few feet longer than you think you need. It's cheaper to cut a couple feet off than re-run the whole wire and have an oddball left over. The leftovers can be used for pigtails anyway.
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ShabinNo5
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# Posted: 25 Nov 2012 10:58am
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TomChum,
Have you considered removing one of your windows? You could then drill up and down with more space to work with and reduce the amount of logs you need to drill through. Then run the wire and reset the window. I have done this in the past.
Steve
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neb
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# Posted: 25 Nov 2012 11:10am
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Malamute
Very well explained.
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TomChum
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# Posted: 25 Nov 2012 11:22am - Edited by: TomChum
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Another great method! Thats why I come to Small-Cabin!
This lets me run larger wires wherever there's a larger hole. I would have liked to have thought ahead.... (! howzzat for hindsight?) At the time it was hard enough keeping the builder on the "Looks 100 years-old theme" without adding plans for wiring, all while living 3 hours away. And at the time I thought Kerosene lights were going to be sufficient. At the time I had no time, just had to heep moving. Next cabin will have more planning.
I hear ya Malamute on the auger bits - the chips aren't likely to just fall out of a 3-foot hole, uspecially uphill. And if the setscrew comes loose you have to get another auger - and start a new hole too.
I'm inclined to hide or avoid visible conduits, so this helps a lot. I'll come up behind the door casing on one wall and remove a window on the other wall. Looking at the window I'm inclined to try removing just one side of the windowcasing. Since it doesn't have to be vertical there may be enough access to drill thru 4 logs although it may get into the chinking. I don't have any insulation in there just backer rod. Then a little "chiseling & chinking" and I'm all set! Thanks!
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 25 Nov 2012 10:19pm
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Tom, there is long drill bits you can buy. I think 3 to 4 feet long. My dad was retire telephone man and then went into business for himself doing it another 20 yrs. He had lots of those long bits. He even have extensions welded on long bits just for fishing wire. But you are right about keeping it inline. And holding your mouth and tongue just right.  I'd go through the door trim, you could T sideways to add a switch just off the inside of the door, route out a spot to set in a box, level the log for the area of the switch with the router. Then go through the top of the roughed door opening to the ceiling.
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bobbotron
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# Posted: 26 Nov 2012 12:06pm
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Man, this sounds like a lotta work just to hide some wires. I'd say run some nice conduit or hide it behind some trim or something. (Just my 2 cents from the peanut gallery.)
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TomChum
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# Posted: 26 Nov 2012 01:22pm
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Quoting: bobbotron Man, this sounds like a lotta work just to hide some wires.
It's the internet's fault!
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bobbotron
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# Posted: 26 Nov 2012 01:31pm
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Quoting: TomChum It's the internet's fault!
Haha, I hear ya.
My vote is definitely to not drill. Sounds like a lot of work, and how awful would it be if your bit came out the side of the wall? I bet you could work out some interesting trim or conduit. Maybe route a 3/4" groove behind a small log sawn in half?
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TomChum
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# Posted: 26 Nov 2012 02:39pm - Edited by: TomChum
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Drilling 8 feet would have been an engineering (or internet) challenge.
But removing a couple windowcasing boards then drilling thru 3 logs, the project just got "easy". Yes the drill could bust out at the chinking. I'll bias it towards outside the house, and if it does bust out, I will insert the wire then hide the offense with chinking goop.
It's been a long time since a log house was done for expedience. In my case hiding wires is just another part of the hobby!
Drilling a wire conduit up from a window opening
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