|
| Author |
Message |
MJW
Member
|
# Posted: 13 Oct 2012 10:11pm
Reply
Really basic question, probably, but you don't know what you don't know.
I have heard comments several times such as "I was going to build x by x but decided to build x by x as I could do it for pretty much the same money in materials."
I am sure there are specifics that can be found that will give you examples of how this works and am pretty sure that it is based on common lumber dimensions but being new to this, I don't really understand it yet.
I have searched but can find no site that really explains it so here is the question.....
We are in the planning stages and are thinking about something in the neighborhood of a 20 x 32 w/ a half loft.
How do you make the determination on when you should go with x by x instead of x by x on your cabin size?
I hope this question makes sense...
|
|
GomerPile
Member
|
# Posted: 14 Oct 2012 06:27am
Reply
Build it in increments of commonly sized lumber/plywood.
Sheet goods come in 4x8, lumber comes in 8,12, and 16....sometimes you can get 10 and 14.
8x12
8x16
12x16
Lay it out on paper like you are going to build it. A CAD program will very useful.
|
|
maine_island
Member
|
# Posted: 14 Oct 2012 08:29pm
Reply
minimize materials (not waste) by building square rather than rectangular. for example an 8x16 cabin has four walls 8', 16', 8, and 16' so 48' of wall material altogether, and encloses 128 square feet.
if you use the same 48' of wall material to make a square 12x12 cabin, you will enclose 144 square feet.
|
|
MtnDon
Member
|
# Posted: 15 Oct 2012 07:32pm
Reply
It is more important to me to have what I want, rather than worry too much about standard size goods and making them fit. I have found a use for a great many of the cutoffs from all the projects I've worked on over the years. I'll say that again, I'd rather have what I want than worry about a few dollars saved. We're also talking trees for most of the supplies and they are a renewable resource. That may not be PC to some. but I don't see much to be concerned about. YMMV.
Not that said, there are places to worry about sizes... Case in point, If I built a 16 foot wide building then when the time would come to install the subflooring there would be a slight problem. T&G sheet goods begin life 48" wide, but when the T&G is milled there is a net loss of 1/2" in most manufacturers T&G goods. That comes up a little short on width. So once we had decided that 16 feet would suit us, I narrowed the plan by a few inches to eliminate the sub floor problem.
|
|
Borrego
Member
|
# Posted: 15 Oct 2012 09:19pm
Reply
Quoting: MtnDon It is more important to me to have what I want, rather than worry too much about standard size goods and making them fit.
+1..... don't worry about it!
I did build my cabin 24' x 24' though for a variety of reasons.. makes things easier in many ways. However, if you choose to go with a multiple of 4, 8, etc... when building, remember to make the dimension you choose be the interior (or finish) dimension. For a 24 x 24 you would actually do the 'rough' layout for foundation at something like 24'10" to allow for shear/siding/stucco/ drywall. Make sense?
|
|
MJW
Member
|
# Posted: 15 Oct 2012 09:36pm
Reply
I appreciate everyone's replies. Any other input is welcome.
My reasoning for wanting to learn more about this is two-fold.
1. Of course I want to minimize waste/reduce cost.
2. I want to reduce unneeded work/excessive cutting or piecing together materials when not needed.
We have a pretty good grasp on the size of the house we want but a couple of feet +/- really won't make any real difference. The size we are looking at is more than enough.
After living in an RV for a year or two I am sure anything over 300 sq feet will feel like a mansion. 
|
|
Borrego
Member
|
# Posted: 15 Oct 2012 10:15pm
Reply
Quoting: MJW 1. Of course I want to minimize waste/reduce cost. 2. I want to reduce unneeded work/excessive cutting or piecing together materials when not needed.
Bad news: neither of these is possible 
|
|
OwenChristensen
Member
|
# Posted: 16 Oct 2012 08:13am
Reply
As you might know, I build small cabins for a living. Everything others have said above are true. I might add, working on ladders slows down construction and cost extra money. I don't like full eight foot walls, steep pitch roofs, lofts, dormers. All of these things bring up cost and slow down build time. I do them all the time because people want them, but they cost a lot. A good example is a 12x 16 with 5/12 pitch roof is $5,000 and a 12 x 18 with a six foot added covered porch with 12/12 pitch roof and two lofts is $10,000. These things cost money, but I sell more of the loft cabins. People want them.
Owen
|
|
|
bobbotron
Member
|
# Posted: 16 Oct 2012 10:02am
Reply
I wouldn't do a half loft if I could build over. So much time on ladders, UGH.
I so wish I'd done a 3/12 shed roof with 2x10 or 2x12 rafters for lots of room for stuffing insulation, and I could walk on the roof. (Seriously, that would rule.)
|
|
|
