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Cantwells
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# Posted: 20 Aug 2013 03:13pm
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Our cabin was infested with mice who LOVED and lived in the yellow/pink insulation. I am also on the search to find an alternate insulation that rodents won't make a nest in and doesn't cost a fortune.
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Boxley
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# Posted: 23 Dec 2013 09:09pm
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I put rigid foam insulation in the walls of my cabin but was dismayed to find tit attracted rodents as evidenced by chewed foam shreds, mouse feces and urine and dead bodies. The smell was gross, too.
So I pull the insulation sheets out and used rolls of fiberglass batts. In each strip,I put some "Just one bite" rodenticide.
This has been working successfully for 3 years. I do occasionally find a dessicated mouse.
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creeky
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# Posted: 24 Dec 2013 09:19am
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I have used both rigid board xps/polyiso insulation and Roxul.
If you want to control critters they will not nest in Roxul. They will create little runways if they can pack the roxul off to the side. But the Roxul cuts their mouths/paws so they avoid it. I did find a birds nest that used roxul that she/he then covered with twigs and mud. neat.
Roxul has dropped in price by 1/3 this year. Don't know why. But when I insulated the attic in my outhouse it was 34 bucks a bag compared to 47 the year before. Nice.
Rigid insulation is the bees knees. I've never seen rodents in it myself, but bees and wasps'll give it a try. They put Boric acid in it for fire suppression and it kills the bugs too. They get one day and then the Borax gets to 'em.
The way to control critters is before they get into the insulation tho. So seal well and watch for intrusions.
Insulation, imho, makes for a quieter, warmer/cooler more comfortable cabin. And is, of course, essential in many areas.
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old243
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# Posted: 26 Dec 2013 10:38pm
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We used 2 inch ridged foam to fit between the floor joist. This is tight to the floor and held by 1x2 cleats. We have had big problems with porcupines , eating any exposed plywood. We covered the whole bottom with used roofing steel that we picked up quite reasonable.Has worked out well.
Our walls and ceilings are also insulated with 2 inch rigid foam. Our big concern with using fiberglass batts , were mice in the walls. Over time the place starts to smell of dead mice. Walls are covered with pine vertical tongue and groove. Be careful and calk any gaps. This will help keep the little fellows at bay.
By all means I would insulate .My Dad used to say you buy insulation once, but you pay to heat your home every year.Old243
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MontanaJared
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# Posted: 27 Jan 2014 09:06pm - Edited by: MontanaJared
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One method you may want to look into is the REMOTE wall system or a variant thereof. It was developed by the Cold Climate Housing Research facility and is a very efficient way to build a home that reduces heating and cooling demands. In a nutshell, you insulate the outside of the home and leave the stud bays empty. This has several benefits..... it moves the dewpoint to the outer wall surface and reduces conductive heat loss via framing. Stack the studs up and you have 20% of your wall conducting heat to the great outdoors.
It is however, more expensive as you use rigid foam in place of batts. If you do decide to use in-wall bats, make sure you get the vapor barrier system right, and this means careful consideration of the material properties of your inner and outer barriers. There is an excellent publication by the University of Alaska Fairbanks that explains dewpoints and how to achieve a mold free home with good heating characteristics ....its a free manual for cold climate building, though it applies to all homes.
Cabins, maybe due to lax code, poor ventilation, or trying to save cash, tend to develop mold in the walls, and that's not just uncomfortable, its dangerous for your family.
As for flooring, most now recommend that you create a conditioned crawlspace by insulating the exterior of the foundation and sealing the ground to the interior foundation wall, with a vent for radon if necessary in your area. Note that this is not a vent open to outdoor air..... it should exhaust via roof and its exchange air comes from inside the home. Crawlspaces should not be vented to the environment if using the sealed system, they exchange air with the warm living space.
Even in a small cabin this makes a huge difference, and it allows you to install a simple underfloor radiant system.
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silverwaterlady
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# Posted: 27 Jan 2014 10:32pm
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Well darn the cost. I am getting spray foam insulation. I am not going to have to deal with mold or rodents. Many have tried to talk me out of it due to cost. I am looking at this as a long term investment in my cabin. I will never need to rip my insulation out and start over due to the above problems. I really believe you get what you pay for. Do it right the first time.
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cbright
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# Posted: 28 Jan 2014 01:01pm
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I used batts in my walls/floor, but I'm going to pay the extra to get the ceiling done with spray foam (pay someone or get a diy kit).
Kind of needed as it is a cathedral ceiling with no venting to speak out. Will make the place super efficient to heat and keeps it cool in the summer.
Who has used a DIY spray foam kit?
like this; http://www.tigerfoam.ca/
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creeky
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# Posted: 28 Jan 2014 01:06pm
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cbright. those kits look cool. also. if you want to save money you can cut rigid board loose, install, and then spray foam the gaps.
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MontanaJared
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# Posted: 28 Jan 2014 08:57pm
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Spray foam can be very efficient, but beware, mice can still chew and make nests from the stuff and heaven help you if you have to get access to the area covered by the stuff. The best use I have seen for bulk spray foam is sealing the sill area in a crawlspace foundation. If money is no object, why not just use rigid, then fill the gaps with spray.
J
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 29 Jan 2014 12:44am - Edited by: MtnDon
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As was pointed out a very good alternative to spray foam inside the walls and rafters is rigid foam sheathing on the exterior. It makes a great air barrier when installed in 2 or more staggered layers with the seams taped. That is easier than cutting rigid foam and placing it in the wall cavities, IMO. The exterior sheathing of foam also covers the studs eliminating the lower R-value of the overall wall when insulation is only in the wall or roof framing. For overall energy efficiency I believe it is the only way to go. It might have been developed for cold climates but it also works great in hot climates.
The stud cavities can be left empty if desired. Any plumbing inside the wall framing is well insulated from the exterior. It is more work, especially around windows and doors. A rain screen wall (exterior) can be easily made and the vertical furring makes a good base to nail lap siding to.
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silverwaterlady
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# Posted: 29 Jan 2014 06:05am
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There is a spray foam that has a bitter additive that rodents hate. They will not chew on the foam. I don't have any spaces between the walls. Our cabin is log.
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ChuckDynasty
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# Posted: 29 Jan 2014 07:12am
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Quoting: MtnDon A rain screen wall (exterior) can be easily made and the vertical furring makes a good base to nail lap siding to.
What kind of fasteners are used to go through two layers of foam?
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 29 Jan 2014 09:58am
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HeadLOK screws. There is document under the technical data section that has a chart for how many fasteners are needed for different loads (weight of the siding plus furring strips), different foam thicknesses and spacing of the furring strips... the TER report. The headLOK screws penetrate the studs a minimum of 2".
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tex
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# Posted: 4 Jan 2015 02:57pm
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Insulate. Always.
Its cheap and easy to install.
We used sheep's wool. Correct wool. Yes, it cost more...but for a small room...its worth it.
It breaths better, wicks water, easier to install (no itch factor), no poly plastic is required and it is totally natural.
The rodents do not like it either!
They love the blue foam board though!
We insulated the floor laminating 3/4" blue foam board between 1/2 ply.
The floor is cool, but use rugs and slippers when required.
Insulation helps contain the heat much longer and more evenly.
Insulation and the positioning of the cabin near trees shade around the cabin and keep the cabin cooler too.
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Bugs Camp
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# Posted: 8 Mar 2015 02:29pm
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New to this awesome site. Have some definite questions as ou situation seems slightly different. We are in the western part of Va. Nat the edge of the George Washington forest. We have all four seasons. We have a 10' x20' wood structure with singled roof on a cement slab. The building is damp! We would like to do a low cost insulation and wood panel finish. I see lots of varying opinions on this and can only afford to do this once. Several questions:
1-the roll pink insulation appears to be the cheapest way to go? Is this correct?
2-I have seen suggestions of yes and no to using a plastic barrier as well-opinions?
3-if plastic rap is used would it be better to staple that to the inside of the exterior wall and then use the pink rolls?
4-in 3 years we have never had rodent visitors so would this be an invitation?
5-if pink r13 isn't used is there another low cost suggestion?
We want to use this for visitors to our camp and want the to be comfortable anytime of year.
All suggestions are much appreciated!
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HappyHippieHermit
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# Posted: 3 Jan 2016 12:31pm - Edited by: HappyHippieHermit
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Quoting: karlscabin I plan to paint the interior walls and ceiling with Kilz primer, PRIOR to adding insulation.
Can i ask how the Kilz helps? I am struggling to find consistent info on how to insulate the roof area since it will be open and there will be a loft on one end. We live in Oklahoma and it gets really windy and cold and very hot in the summer . I have shade trees where i will be placing it but the back of the house will be facing North but not windows so i just wanted it to be as comfortable as possible. Any suggestions would be great.
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Steve1
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# Posted: 4 Jan 2017 05:13pm
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I have the same shed pictured above (side lofted barn), I have run power through the whole thing and put in can lights under the lofts. My question is this, there is no ridge vent and any insulation I put in the ceiling would not vent. There is no tyvec/wrap on the exterior frame and I want to assure I don't have moisture/rot issues in the future. I will only be using the shed as a mancave/shop and will only be heating it for 2-3 hours at a time. I have been looking to determine what insulation I should use and how to do it to avoid any issues in the future. One contractor suggested I don’t insulate it and buy a bigger heater; his point is it is a shed and was not built to have proper ventilation for use with insulation. I live in Seattle where January/February are the coldest times a year and most of the time 40’s is as cold as it gets. The walls are 2 x 4, what insulation should I use? Would it be fine to not use insulation and just put up a vapor barrier on the inside? Ideas/Suggestions?
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