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Jbar
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# Posted: 25 Aug 2012 08:19am
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I am a new member to this forum, but have been surfing it for years looking for inspiration for a cabin project that I have been dreaming about for many years.
I am in the process of building a small cabin on a 30 acre parcel of land in Southern OH, and I have a question about at what point to install the windows. The walls are studded and the plan is to wrap the studs in Tyvek then sheath using T111.
Question: should the "new construction" windows be installed between the studs and Tyvek, between the Tyvek and T111 or on top of the T111 and then trimmed with 1x6 cedar?
It seems there might be different schools of thought here, and, I'm also concerned about replacing windows should they become damaged.
Help!
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groingo
Member
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# Posted: 25 Aug 2012 10:12am
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I have dual pane low E 36 by 48 inch sliders for under $100.00 each so they are relatively cheap to replace but to make sure you may want to put shutters on the outside of the windows so when you're gone the windows are protected.
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ShabinNo5
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# Posted: 25 Aug 2012 11:06am
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Jbar, you mentioned replacement due to damage. Is this an expected occurance? My guess is that you are considering installing the windows after the T111 has been installed to facilitate replacement. However my concern would be with the difficulty of properly sealing the windows with this installation method. If the seal failed water damage could occur to both the window and the framing structure of the building.
My recommendation would be to install the window after the Tyvek has been installed and before the T111 is installed. The following link provides a good example of properly sealing a window in new construction.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v4O7y4CLrzs
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VC_fan
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# Posted: 25 Aug 2012 11:34am
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I don't mean to argue ShabinNo5's recommendation, and I had the same question. I put them on top of the T111 and just caulked the joints well (the joints with the trim and the nail strips on the windows). But I also pre-fabbed our shack in 4x8 panels (studs + T111) so Tyvek didn't seem to be an option. That was over ten years ago and I have had zero issues. Of course, I thought when I built it that we'd only have the shack about 5 years..... We're also in Ohio - Vinton County ("Nature at Its Finest"). Good luck with the build.
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Jbar
Member
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# Posted: 25 Aug 2012 01:49pm
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Thanks for all replys. I don't anticipate damage, but I never thought of the shutters; great idea.
It's funny; I'm calling my projct the "shabin"; modified shed plan, but upgraded for comfort. I watched the video (thanks) and the B1 solution seems to be the way to go.
VC, looks like we're neighbors, as I'm also in Vinton county. I'll make liberal use of the caulking for sure.
Thanks all. I really appreciate it.
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cabinbiscuits
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# Posted: 25 Aug 2012 11:24pm - Edited by: cabinbiscuits
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I've been struggling with this same issue but had already decided to go the other direction and put the nailing fins on top of my Smart Side panels. I was concerned about water getting to the nailing fins ( under the sheets of siding ) and then running to the bottom of the side fins where it would then be dropping inside the wall that way. Since this is not the typical stud/sheathing/siding construction the options for effective flashings on top of the nailing fins under the siding or trim seem pretty limited. Obviously if your window is nailed directly into the framing members under the T111 you can forget those flashings altogether. My thinking was two seals, one where the nailing fin is siliconed in, and the second where the trim is caulked to the window frame and building should hold up pretty good. Especially if I use good poly caulk.
For me going on top of the sheets of T111 or Smart Side panels also gives me the chance to get the building dried in and secured that much quicker and then come back and do the windows one at a time as time and budget allow.
I didn't use Tyvec over my studs though so that would probably help you in your case if water got under the T111 though.
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ShabinNo5
Member
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# Posted: 26 Aug 2012 09:37am
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Another consideration when not applying OSB or plywood sheeting before the T111, is the wall depth.
Most inexpensive pre-fab windows are built with the assumption that the construction will have 1/2 inch of sheeting then 3 1/2 inches for the studs and another 1/2 inch for the interior wall board. The jams in the window are sized to be flush with the interior wall board.
If you install directly to the studs the jams may extend beyond your finished wall. Not a hugh issue as your interior trim can be adjusted. Just something to think about.
As for installing on the T111. The area that would need special attention is the channels in the T111. Windows are manufactured with the expectation of a smooth surface. The irregularity of the T111 channels are the most likely point of water penetration. If you choose this route, do not use cheap chaulking. If your sealant shrinks water will have an access point.
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Martian
Member
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# Posted: 26 Aug 2012 10:29am - Edited by: Martian
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Regardless of whether you put the windows on the outside or against the studs, the top should be flashed. If you put them against the studs, then put flashing under the bottom flange as well.
When framing, go ahead and frame in the windows. That will save a bunch of time and work when you get around to installing them. Plan ahead and place fasteners where they won't interfere or use screws so you can remove them. Put two king studs on each side of the opening to insure you have plenty of nailing surface for the trim and siding.
My last cabin was 5/8ths inch T-111 over studs. I put 30# felt paper over the studs. The windows went against the framing and trimmed with 1X4 cedar. The top flashing is above the trim, and the bottom trim was rabbited to go over the T111 instead of being flashed. Everything was well caulked before painting. Its been 13 years, and there are no leaks. The trim can be removed to gain access to the window flange if they ever need to be replaced.
Tom
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