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jgiffi
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# Posted: 18 Jul 2012 11:55pm
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I'm trying to determine what I am going to use for my siding and I need something that is reasonably priced but would also like something that is low maintenance because I work alot and I don't want to spend my free time at camp working but would rather be enjoying it.
Any thoughts or recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
Would also like to keep it as rustic as possible...
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Sustainusfarm
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# Posted: 19 Jul 2012 12:31am
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I used architectual grade roof shingles. I used the color called Weatherwood. Looks great and the life expectancy is 40-50 yrs on a vertical surface! Easy and inexpensive!
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OwenChristensen
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# Posted: 19 Jul 2012 08:39am
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I like that. Not cheap.
I'm not too familiar with cement siding. I used 4'x8' sheets on a shed for a bank. It seems to be holding up fine. I was worried because of how brittle it was. I know you could kick a hole though it quite easy.
Also many home builders that used to love the colored lap siding now hate it. Shrinkage has caused nail pulling and the company didn't honor waranties.
Owen
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jgiffi
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# Posted: 19 Jul 2012 10:06am
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Owen, I was told that the newer cement siding isn't as brittle as the older products, hear of anything like that? The shingles look good but price wise it would end up being fairly expensive to use.
If you have had success with a certain product please feel free to include pictures.
Thank you
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TheCabinCalls
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# Posted: 19 Jul 2012 12:03pm
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We were originally going to get 4x9 sheets of hardi board. It was about $30/sheet. There is painted sheets and they run $50 a sheet. We were then going to put the 2" batten strips they offer over top the seams. The battens were $8 each.
It seemed like the right option for us, but we ran into issues (another story). We ended up going with something else, but it turns out it would have been cheaper to actually do it this way.
I know there are a lot of videos and manuals on how to install. The trick with this materials is in the soffits/facia. But walls seem pretty easy if you find a nail/screw to easily get through it.
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hattie
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# Posted: 19 Jul 2012 12:22pm
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We have cement siding in our greenhouse. Building codes stated they had to actually build our greenhouse as if it were outside even though it is enclosed. The room gets REALLY humid and is quite wet most of the time. The siding is holding up GREAT! We really like it.
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larry
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# Posted: 19 Jul 2012 08:48pm
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i used a james hardy cement product type siding it is hard as hell and requiers little to nothing for maitenance. it is a little less than t1-11.
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sparky1
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# Posted: 19 Jul 2012 08:51pm
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I called Lowes asked about this product-48" X 96" sheet special order Made by James Hardie- their ,Lowes # is 122950, it may not come up.but that is the # for it, prefer NOT use nails.yes it's very Heavy.
James Hardie 96" x 48" Sierra Fiber Cement Panel SidingItem #: 122950 | Model #: 617863
sparky1 in S.Va.
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 19 Jul 2012 10:30pm
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It is heavy to handle large sheets. Require a diamond blade to cut and creates lots of dust which when breathed, can lead to silicosis, a debilitating lung disease. I'd sheet the building with the OSB or plywood, then use the smaller planked siding. I have installed that on a buddy house to replace defective LP stuff (back when it was all recalled) much easier to work with.
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Sustainusfarm
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# Posted: 19 Jul 2012 10:50pm
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4 yrs ago I put on those shingles. That one side of the cabin cost less than $80! It measures 10x19, almost 2 squares of shingles or 6 bundles. I thought that was cheap cosidering other siding options...T-111 is cheap but plain ugly to me. I have only seen T-111 last 20 yrs or so if that, especially in shady wet woods. My shingles should last 40-50 yrs or longer.
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OwenChristensen
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# Posted: 19 Jul 2012 11:16pm - Edited by: OwenChristensen
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It looks good too. Timberline shingles cost about $80 per sq. here. I suppose you could use $8 OSB underneith for a total cost per sq. of a little over a hundred. That's about the same as good T1-11
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jgiffi
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# Posted: 21 Jul 2012 05:33pm
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I like the look and durability of the cement board and I would use a respirator when cutting the board so that I didn't breath in any of the dust because I hear that it can be extremely hazardous. Did you end up using screws or nails when installing the cement siding?
The timberline shingles near me are running roughly $35 a bundle. I notcied in the last few years that shingle prices have been going crazy and Im not really sure why....
Thank you,
Justin
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OwenChristensen
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# Posted: 22 Jul 2012 12:27am - Edited by: OwenChristensen
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I just used siding nails in my air nailer. Then I put a dab of grey silicone caulk over the heads.
I hear the low maintanance thing, but I don't think it has that much value. I have Southern Yellow Pine siding in 5/8'' T1-11 style on my cabin. It's 22 years old now and we are staining it for the second time. Our house has vinyl and is a powdered faded finish and is ten years old. The cement board I used should of had a backer. If you use T1-11 it is all in one. I always do my siding on the walls before I raise them. I square the frame with the T1-11 and they're done. I think they look good too.
Owen
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jgiffi
Member
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# Posted: 22 Jul 2012 10:25am
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Owen, thanks for the info. Your place looks really nice! What brand paint did you use? There are a few camps in our area and they used some rough cut siding from the local saw mill and I know that they have had to stain/seal the wood with about 6-8 coats over a few years to get it to really take. I guess it was really absorbing the stain. Owen, I have 10 ft walls so is there any recommendations you would have for laying the T1-11 if I did go that route. I hate to have seams everywhere.
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OwenChristensen
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# Posted: 22 Jul 2012 11:05am - Edited by: OwenChristensen
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That's a problem all right. I hate seems too. I design the building arround 4x8 sheets, but if I have to have seems, like on my own cabin, I use a z-flashing and have the joint high enough so it's somewhat protected by the roof overhang, and have cross blocking in the framing. On two walls of my cabin the porch roof starts at that joint and can't be seen. On other cabins I have covered the Z-flash with a 1x2 cedar strip with a beveled top edgeand calked to better shed and water, again onder the overhang if possible.
I havn't had the ability to choose brands of T1-11, A few years ago a brand called Royomartin looked great, but it turned out to have not been any better than the others. We have to look at each sheet when we load, no matter what brand name.
And, yes it takes a lot of stain, but that's a good thing, the more the better, 10 gals on my little cabin. $100 per 5 gal bucket.
Owen
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Martian
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# Posted: 22 Jul 2012 12:23pm
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13 years back, I built with T1-11. There is one place where its rotted from water splashing on the bottom. When I built this time, I used the Hardi-planks. My experience with the cement siding over the last 10 years has been really positive. Its easy to work with, doesn't warp or crack, holds paint like a son-of-a-gun, and rot is imposible. I blind nail, when possible, to avoid any possibility of leaking at a nail hole.
Its a good idea to pre-drill any nails that are going to be within 3/4" of an edge.
Tom
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 22 Jul 2012 05:05pm
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We love the Hardie planl siding we used. For us the big thing was the resistance to fire. We're in a NF. It holds paint very well. Cutting is not my favorite thing; wear protection for breathing and ears too.
Are you talking about 4x8 sheets installed vertically or the "planks" installed as lap siding horizontally?
The lap siding needs to be installed over sheathing, like OSB, as they are not structural. That takes away much of the concern about impact resistance. Use nails; an air nailer does the job as long as it does not over drive the nails.
The vertical sheets can be used over studs, but still needs a weather resistant barrier under it. If you stud placement is not perfect vertical installation can result in nails missing studs. Nails can not be closer than 3/8" to the edge so it doesn't give much stud to nail into where panels edges meet. Sometimes double studs are used because of that. Myself, because of the edge nailing thing I do not think it makes a good structural panel. IMO, apply over osb sheathing is best.
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larry
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# Posted: 22 Jul 2012 07:53pm
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i used a special small head deck screw with a drill point. great holding power with no worries about breaking the panel edge. i also caulked the seams with a color match caulk. beneath the panel is a 6 mil weather barriere. we didnt have many cuts but a old carbide circular saw blade made short work of it.
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Borrego
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# Posted: 22 Jul 2012 10:21pm
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I used Hardie siding 4x8 sheets, installed over 3/8'" OSB (with Tyvek underneath)
The OSB adds extra shear strength, and I just always build with it. Maybe not necessary, but it feels right to me.
The Hardie siding was a natural choice since our desert cabin is meant to look good, but doesn't need to be a palace...just practical, and price and ease of install were a big factor. The special blades cut it easily , but make sure to wear a mask......
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