Malamute
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# Posted: 16 May 2012 04:38pm - Edited by: Malamute
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Do you have the T flange trim on the edges of the shingles? I'm about to do a small building that has that, I'm going to remove it. Either that, or nail on some 1x or 2x spacers along the edges to give backing to the gable and eave trim for the metal. I use the smallest gable trim, I think they call it mini-gable. I also use 1x6 instead of 1x4 along the last gable ends, in case a rib ends up being in a bad location for the last gable trim, and the screw flange ends up being farther in from the edge than it did when you started. When the rib isnt in a good spot at the end of the last panel, a wider profile trim is required to finish it right (they'll make it any width you want, but you have to order it). Sometimes I wait on the last gable trim, as I can't return any of it after I order it.
I use a cheap circular saw with a normal, non carbide blade installed backwards to cut the metal. I cut from the back. It makes a terrific racket to cut it, and throws nasty sparks and hot metal chips, but its the quickest way to cut angles. A couple pair of good tin snips helps, a right and a left. I've caulked with good quality caulk along walls. I've used Log Jam, and Log Builder with good results. It bonds well to the metal and whatever I've caulked against. Big Stretch works pretty well also. Don't even consider using cheaper caulk. Use a good quality spray bottle with a mixture of 1/2 rubbing alcohol and 1/2 water to tool the caulk if you do it that way, and a small magin trowel or log chinking tool, or even your finger, to tool it out and smooth it.
Order you metal panels the length you want, (I do about 1 1/2" of overhang on the lower ends) avoid cutting any more than you have to, it saves time and money. You have a little leeway on the length at the top, as the ridge metal covers a fair bit. When you order your metal, they should make your ridge to your roof pitch so you dont have to fight it. Pre drill the holes, separating the pile for each section so the overlap goes downwind from your strongest winds. Hold a block of wood right next to the hole when drilling it so the panels dont separate when drilling, it keeps the bit from breaking. Read the info that comes with the metal before proceeding, or get it from the company before you start, so you know what you're doing when your metal shows up.
I usually order some extra screws just for fun, I don't like running short. The ends should have two in each flat, the fields just one on the high lap side of the flat. I dont go less than 24" spacing up the run of the panel. Stitch screws go in the ribs in line with the fields screws to hold the laps tight. If you have cedar facia, I get screws long enough to hit the solid sub-facia. I use gold torx screws to screw the 1x's into the rafters, either 3" or longer as needed.
Your metal sales person should have a chart to tell how many screws you need for your square footage. They should also know what type screws you need, but some are not up to speed on what type screws for what application. Going into 1x, you should be good with the smaller diameter screws. If your sales person doesnt know much (even if they say they've sold it for years, that's no guarantee they now anything useful), call the company and talk to someone to get all the info you need.
I'd use wider 1x's up the edges of the valeys also. I generally use a wider valley flashing, and the higher grade highly compressible foam stuff to seal under the metal. It isnt cheap, but works well.
You'll need closures also, top and bottom, to fill the ribs in. Upper closures under the ridge cap, and lower closures for the bottom ends.
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