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jrbarnard
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# Posted: 9 Feb 2012 11:12am
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I am so excited. I am 7 weeks away from building the cabin. I plan to build the base of the cabin between now and then, so I will have pictures.
Now, I have 2 issues and would love input:
1 - I am building a 39' x 32' base. 15x32 will have 2x6x12's for the front porch (the entire base will be treated lumber).
The rest of the base, 24' x 32' will be T/G OSB, so I planned on NOT adding that till we get out there to do the framing so it is not exposed to the weather. I am still going to cover everything with tarps, so as to protect it, but I do not want to take the risk there will be rain on the OSB. Good call, or go ahead and install it for 2 weeks ahead of time?
2 - Leveling - I really really really want to use Cement blocks, but as they are all certain sizes, how hard is it to make a cabin really "level" with those? I mean, you have 2, 4, and 8" increments, but my thought is it just can't be that easy.
Ideas?
Yes, I know, we would all love to have posts dug in the ground.. heh.. but they wanted $2000 to install piers and that is way too much money.
Thanks guys! Getting close!
Russ
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TomChum
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# Posted: 9 Feb 2012 11:49am - Edited by: TomChum
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1) How long do you think it will take to lay the sheets of OSB? With a nail gun 24 sheets, in 2 hours, or 3 hours slacking? Might as well keep the OSB undercover in case 2 weeks turns into 2 months and you have to worry.
2) For leveling you can shim to "really level", your pier does not have to be solid cement - it can have wood shims, squares of OSB, or wide, flat cedar shingles (in pairs!). You could even "pour" the last shim with thin set cement. If you build your cabin on blocks, on the ground, you should assume adding the weight of the cabin it will settle over time. I'd take the time to build your main platform deadnuts level. Check for settling from time to time during the build, as you add weight onto your pierblocks. If there is crawlspace you may be able to jack it over the years and shim up level again.
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jrbarnard
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# Posted: 9 Feb 2012 12:05pm
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I once saw some nice adjustable levels.. heh.. that would have been cool, but cannot find them anymore. I find the ones that you set in concrete, but I cannot easily pour concrete 60 miles from water :p
Thanks for the input, I will definitely keep that stuff in mind.
Russ
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TomChum
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# Posted: 9 Feb 2012 12:19pm
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Quoting: jrbarnard I once saw some nice adjustable levels.. heh..
A "pair" of sawn cedar shingles is an adjustable level. Lay them flat, opposing so they result in "level adjustment". Very low cost hand high reliability especially with a little nail or spot of glue. And it's 'old-school' which I like ;-)
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 9 Feb 2012 12:50pm
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The best subfloor material, IMO, is Advantech. It's made by Huber Engineered Wood. Why is it best? It is the most water resistant OSB there is and beats plywood for performance. Everything that may sound like "hype" on their website is true. Lowes in many places carries it. Well worth looking for. I know people who have used the Huber roof and wall products too and they are all super pleased.
What's the frost level like; how deep? Does your ground drain really well. Is the ground easy enough to dig? It is a little work but I have dug pier holes 48 inches deep by hand to get below frost depth. In the end I think iy is worth it. If you have it sit on the ground, what will be the method used to prevent uplift? High winds can and do shift buildings.
Keep in mind that any wood framing including subfloor should be 18" above grade or be PT. That's code; if there's no code, there's still all the things that make that a reasonable thing to do, with building longevity in mind.
Things to think about.
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Just
Member
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# Posted: 9 Feb 2012 05:23pm
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Russ i would buy a role of builders nylon string and a string level thats the most important thing you can have when starting out [ 5$] that and some wooden stakes, will get you going. you can even practice in the back yard at home i did that on my first cabin.
good luck
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Anonymous
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# Posted: 10 Feb 2012 05:43pm
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I can't comment on Advantech, and I understand that OSB is better than it had been, but I'd definitely spend a few dollars more for real plywood. In our situations it just makes sense (my opinion). Ours is 16 x 20 and 2 hours from home. I had help putting down the T&G sheets (I found getting them all seated with each other to be a bigger nuisance than I'd expected, probably due to some minor drying and warpage between the time the joists went down and when I had a chance to do the subfloor). And like you plan to do, I tarped it whenever I left. I built my walls in 4x8 panels, and had the first floor up but no roof at one point. The next time I got there, the tarps had failed and I had about 1/2" of water standing on top of the subfloor, being dammed in by the baseplates of my walls. I found the deepest spot, drilled a hole (cordless drill) and let it drain. Later, I just caulked the hole. The plywood is good as new and I assume I'd have been doing the whole thing again if I had had OSB sitting there underwater for 2-3 weeks. So unless you've got a plan to go from a subfloor to dried-in very quickly, just assume that your project will get wet.
You've got a pretty ambitious project in mind - good luck with it, and have fun! For what it's worth to you, if I was doing mine again it would be about half the size it is. I'm curious what others would say about that.
Mine's built on 4x4 posts. It's on a steep slope (drops about 6' in 20') and there would have been no way to get a concrete truck in. I wanted it up a little off the ground due to moisture, bugs, and critters. You'd probably be surprised what you could do with one day, two people, and a powered auger. I built my shed (12x16) on blocks - dig away the sod, put in some gravel, and then throw in a block. I found it pretty tough to get it level but I also wanted to avoid shimming. Having done both, and not wanting to start an argument with anybody, I'd say that posts are more forgiving (which is also something you want when you're building in the middle of the woods). In particular, I installed two heavy beams at the right vertical height but left them about 1 foot long on each end. That way, if I didn't get them exactly square (which I didn't) or exactly in line with each other (which I didn't), I could still lay down the square grid of joists on top of them with no issues. I may have spent a tiny bit more on wood than I would have had to but since each work day involved 4 hours of driving I thought it was worth it.
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VC_fan
Member
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# Posted: 10 Feb 2012 05:44pm
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Sorry, I wasn't signed in - prior "Anonymous" is VC_fan.
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jrbarnard
Member
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# Posted: 13 Feb 2012 09:38am
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I hear ya, but I like the size. Once it is done, I will probably go, "I did not really need that much" but I would rather have that than be crowded.. heh
Right now, we have a pre-built 12x24 cabin that is just too small, when it is wet outside. We have the cooking stuff in one corner and the working/tools stuff in another corner and beds in the loft and other side. When we try to sit, we end up looking and scrounging for places to sit (we have a dog, 2 small kids, and my wife and I.. if we invite friends, it is usually 3 people at a time).
Anyway, we MIGHT try the auger, but I have plans for 24 cement blocks atm and they seem to work well enough in this area.
The most slope we are looking at is about a 6" difference, so I am buying a lot of cement blocks in various sizes and some cedar shingles to shim with.
The base will begin this weekend, so I will start a thred once I get pictures, of the project.
Thanks guys and gals!
Russ
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fred
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# Posted: 13 Feb 2012 12:37pm
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I'd have to say +1 for Advantech subfloor. I knew that it would be 4-5 months before I'd get a roof over the flooring. We went up a few times and had to sweep puddles of the floor and it really held up well. Minor edge swelling but easily remedied with a sander. My cost here in Colorado was under $30 per sheet last year and I think that it was well worth it.
I would worry about uneven settling just putting it up an blocks. I did a few footings over 3' deep but most were less than that and ended in bedrock, with rebar epoxied in about 6".
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jrbarnard
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# Posted: 13 Feb 2012 02:41pm
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Well, and I appreciate all the excellent input, but the issue is, I do not want or need rebar and digging holes. To give you an idea, to dig holes out here and put poles in the ground 3 ft, runs about $100 per pole.
I am spending about 7000 on the cabin. I cannot afford to spend another 2000-2500 on the poles only.
The ground is fairly level, with about 6" max of difference across the area we are building. Most every cabin out here, I'd bet like 90%, sit on cement blocks for multiple reasons. First and foremost is the 700 ft of limestone beneath us.. heh. The second reason is another big one, the tax valuation of a "permanent" structure vs one "on blocks".
Anyway, the input is great and I do hear all of it and am very thankful for it.
Russ
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Just
Member
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# Posted: 13 Feb 2012 03:27pm
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I hear you russ the last small cabin i built was on some used silo slabs i got for nothing piled in a fence row .they were 16 x 24 , 4 in thick and worked fine .i put one block on them and shimed them with some hard wood scrap . one for every 25 sq. feet of building .if i had to do it again i would use 2 blocks to get the thing up a bit higher .
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Martian
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# Posted: 13 Feb 2012 03:38pm - Edited by: Martian
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Russ, you don't have to pay someone to dig the holes. There are 13 treated 6X6 supports under my 20X24 cabin and another 3 supporting the back porch/utility room I added when I decided I wanted more room. They were all dug 3' deep using a set of jobbers. It took about an hour to dig the hole and set each pier, and yes, there were rocks and roots. I packed the soil I took out back in around the piers. I bought 12' 6X6's and cut them in half. Each one cost ~$35.
I'm an old guy. So digging the holes helped keep me in shape. I did not dig all the holes all at once! Four was the most I got done on any given day, but they were free!
After planting the piers, its easy to level everything.
Planting piers will help keep your building more stable. The more stable it is, the less you will have to deal with over the life of the structure.
Tom
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coffeekittie
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# Posted: 19 Feb 2012 05:17am
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Quoting: jrbarnard I once saw some nice adjustable levels.. heh.. that would have been cool, but cannot find them anymore.
I've seen this recently at both Lowes and Home Depot. Not every store carries them, but some locations of either store does. HTH!
Parker
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