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Rifraf
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# Posted: 7 Jan 2012 11:12am
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Initially I was going to put inside sheathing (plywood) inside to all the walls for strength before adding any sheet rock or planks. But now I dont want to loose the inside space from the plywood thickness. I also dont want to put horizontal 2x4s between studs (that are 24 on center) because I want as much insulation in there as can possibly be blown in.
So, are there any other options?.. do they make thin but strong metal bracers that can be attached between studs that allow insulation space ?
Im sure that it will be sound as is, but I cant help myself I need to feel super safe.
Thanks
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Just
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# Posted: 7 Jan 2012 12:25pm
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there is a product called wind braceing that can be applyed on the inside wall.it is a metal brace that blaced in a saw cut it can be used ether horrisontaly or on a diagonal. comes in 11.5 ft. lengths
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 7 Jan 2012 01:45pm - Edited by: MtnDon
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What's the exterior? Looks like T1-11
Real plywood, OSB or hardboard type and how thick?
If it's real plywood it should be structural and should really be all you need.
If it's hardboard it may not be structural rated.
The panels should be marked/stamped on the interior surfsace if it is structural.
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MtnDon
Member
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# Posted: 7 Jan 2012 01:53pm
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http://www.strongtie.com/news/industry/wall-bracing/conventional.html
http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/WB-WBC-TWB-RCWB.asp
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Rifraf
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# Posted: 7 Jan 2012 05:45pm
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Thanks for the links. I am hoping to find something thin enough to nail/screw to the outside of the studs so that my inside planks or drywall wont be effected by it , even though its on the stud surface.
Something like this perhaps
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TomChum
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# Posted: 7 Jan 2012 06:23pm - Edited by: TomChum
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What's the outside sheathing? Any sheathing, even non-structural, will add a helluvalot more shear strength than a little steel flat with 2 nails. That metal could cause you grief later - I don't know what kind of grief, but you will day "dangit" more than once. If you have 4X8 sheeting the outside the strength you gain by adding those will be miniscule.
What is the size of this structure? If a 1/2" sheet on the inside encroaches I suspect it's a small structure, and as such it will have a lot of strength already.
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 7 Jan 2012 06:28pm - Edited by: MtnDon
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There is little point in running anything horizontally across vertical studs. That does not add much rigidity at all. The Tee cross section strips are used at a diagonal ideally with one end on the lower plate and the other end on the upper plate. Also for every one that "leans" to the right another should "lean" to the left. The idea is to form triangles. Boards, whatever, nailed horizontally only make rectangles; not nearly as rigid. Tee bars and 1x4 lumber should be nailed into the top and bottom plates to provide maximum rigidity.
The Tee strips are meant to be used on the exterior side as they may create a bump under drywall. On the exterior that is usually much less apparent.
5/8" drywall might make bumps from the strips less apparent. In fact it would be a good idea to use 5/8" drywall because of the 34" spacing of the studs. 1/2" drywall over 34" studs will frequently show waves and give a little when pressed against between studs.
But I was asking about the type of material used on the exterior for good reason. If the exterior panels are structurally rated and if they are properly nailed you already have a nice rigid structure. Continuously sheathed walls like that have superb rigidity.
Not all panels that are called T1-11 are structural though, some are only rated for siding use, which means something else has to be used to brace the walls. Things like the Tee bars, or 1x4 lumber set into the studs, or sheathing rated as structural like common 7/16 OSB. Proper nailing of sheathing panels = 6D common nails every 6" an edges, 12" in the field.
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Rifraf
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# Posted: 7 Jan 2012 06:40pm - Edited by: Rifraf
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The building is 12x32 measured from outside edges, it does have outside t111, im not sure what type of t111, ill call the building company tomorrow and find out. all I know off hand is that its pressure treated, real wood because it has knots all over.
im not sure if you can indentify the wood used for this t111 from the videos / photos but I posted many here on this forum.
http://www.small-cabin.com/forum/6_1646_0.html
I am surprised to hear that horizontal bindings wouldnt add much structural support though, thanks for the info.
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Icebear
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# Posted: 7 Jan 2012 07:13pm
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In this part of the world we just use galvanised strapping which runs diagonally across the outside of the studs. You buy it in 20-30meter rolls and it gets nailed into every stud.
You can now get versions which have tightening mechanisms so you attach each end, then draw it tight and then nail off to each stud.
It you criss cross your outside walls with this style of bracing it is very strong, very light, easy to apply, and doesn't affect insulation or exterior cladding...
This is an example, you must be able to find something similar: http://www.pryda.co.nz/catalog.php?sectionid=20&type=Bracing&conn=SB082_SBT
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MtnDon
Member
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# Posted: 7 Jan 2012 07:28pm - Edited by: MtnDon
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Rifraf, from what I see in the videos it does appear to be real plywood T1-11 style. If it's 1/2 or 5/8 thick it should be rated as a structural panel. If so you're good to go as it sits. On the inside you'd see OSB if it was either the all OSB variety of T1-11. Ditto if it was the hardboard variety; that has the hardboard over an OSB backing.
If this is the folks who built it
http://www.derksenbuildings.com/treated_buildings.php
I'll bet dollars to donuts that it IS sheathed with a structural panel. It's 5/8" and anything that thick that I've seen is structural. The double studs give a larger nailing area at the edges; that's good. However, that will require squeezing the batt insulation a little to fit it into the space; a trade off I guess. I really do you're sweating details you don't need to bother with. Finish the electrical and any plumbing that goes in the walls and then insulate.
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 7 Jan 2012 07:46pm
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IF those are structural panels and you are still wondering about whether or not they make a strong structure the following link has some info I posted illustrating the relative strengths of 1x4 let in bracing and full sheet sheathing. The metal strips install like a 1x4, but are actually easier and stronger than 1x4. They are no match for structural sheathing though.
http://www.small-cabin.com/forum/6_1582_0.html#msg20134
scroll down a little
Adding the weaker diagonals to stronger sheathing does little. IMO.
BUT if the panels are only rated as siding, I take back everything I said good about Derksen. Because it is a shed to begin with some builders sometimes try to get away with siding quality instead of structural.
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Rifraf
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# Posted: 8 Jan 2012 12:15am
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yea it is 5/8 thick. Ill be having the expanding foam blown in the entire cabin. Walls, ceiling, and under the cabin.
Thanks again
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MtnDon
Member
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# Posted: 8 Jan 2012 10:50am
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Quoting: Rifraf expanding foam
Great stuff! That will also seal up any possible air leaks.
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