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Tim
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# Posted: 16 Nov 2011 02:59pm - Edited by: Tim
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Well, within the next 2 weeks or so, I should be putting on my metal roof. The location we have chosen for the wood stove to sit, will put the stove pipe just a couple of feet down from the ridge. I understand the box that holds the bottom of the insulated pipe, but how do you seal the top edge of the plate on the boot on a steel roof? I have done many of these with shingle roofs, that's easy, but how do you do it with a metal, multi rib roof?
Tim
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Martian
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# Posted: 16 Nov 2011 04:29pm - Edited by: Martian
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Tim, The way we do it on metal roofing is to, if possible, have the pipe come out within 18" of the ridge and put the top edge of the roof jack under the ridge cap. If not, then we get one of those expensive ($80 or so), heat resistant rubber boots that conforms to the ribs. Its like a standard plumbing roof jack, but heat resistant.
Tom
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MtnDon
Member
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# Posted: 16 Nov 2011 05:12pm
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Those flexible boots work very well. We have two in use on ribbed metal roofs.
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Tim
Member
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# Posted: 17 Nov 2011 09:21am
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Thanks guys,
Great info!
Tim
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my secret shed
Member
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# Posted: 22 Nov 2011 09:00am
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Hi there
I am intending to put a stove into my shed and need to go through a corrugated roof section. Is the rubber flashing mentioned the same as
a DEKTITE flashing, as I can source one of these in the UK?
Thanks
Mark
PS. I have attached a pic
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Martian
Member
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# Posted: 22 Nov 2011 09:13am
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It looks basically the same as the ones I've used, but check on the temperature range its approved for use.
Sealing a corrugated metal is a little more difficult than the spaced ribbed variety, but a liberal application of butyl rubber caulk under the boot, and a bunch of screws, usually does the trick.
If your roof is screwed down and the panel has enough extra length, you can take the panel off, cut it across where the boot goes, notch the top to fit half way around the boot, slip the bottom part under the boot flange, the top over the flange, and screw it down after caulking the seam.
Tom
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davers
Member
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# Posted: 24 Nov 2011 12:53pm
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what i did (with several small out buildings)
is just use a square piece of sheet metal nailed to
the wall stud to stud.
and run my black stove pipe through the center of the square piece of sheet metal. never had any problems.
we use to burn everything in that old pot belly wood stove.
everything went in there, plastic bottles, broken v-belts, you name it.
(recycling at its best) :-)
crude, but works very well and affordable.
the studs that where 16" centers, and plywood would never
get hot enough to burn.
we had the black pipe many many times, glowing almost red.
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Tim
Member
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# Posted: 3 Dec 2011 06:52am
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Thanks everybody. I was able to get the pipe close enough to the ridge to set the ridge cap over the boot flange. It worked great so far after 3 days of steady rain, no leaks. (knock on wood!) lol
Tim
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