|
| Author |
Message |
chainsrgone
Member
|
# Posted: 15 Nov 2011 11:26am
Reply
I'm working on a cabin (pics will follow when I get them). I'm looking for opinions on when to install my windows. I am going to be using T1-11 siding directly over the studs, no sheathing. Would it be best to install windows first then cut the siding around them later or just install the siding and cut to fit the window opening then slap the windows over the top? Or some other way? I would love to just get the siding up then worry about the windows later but don't know if that's just asking for trouble leakwise.
|
|
MtnDon
Member
|
# Posted: 15 Nov 2011 12:52pm
Reply
Install the T1-11, then cut the window holes when you are ready to install them.
Installing the T1-11 as the only exterior sheathing and finish makes it impossible to flash the windows properly. All you can do is use sufficient caulk and the best caulk you can find; pure silicone is best. Then you have to hope that the T1-11 does not delaminate / deteriorate and let water in. In fact that is the potential problem with not using a standard sheathing, like OSB, followed by a weather resistant barrier, like #15 building felt, followed by the cosmetic outer paneling or siding. If the T1-11 deteriorates as it sometimes does down along the lower edge much of the structural integrity of the wall is lost. Ideally the T1-11 would be installed over the OSB and felt with the panel edges of the OSB and T1-11 overlapping different studs.
|
|
toyota_mdt_tech
Member
|
# Posted: 15 Nov 2011 10:34pm
Reply
Usually, windows in first, thenm cut T1-11 out to fit around the window. Thats the way I did mine. Pain int he ass, but its the way the industry does it. I didnt trim my outside windows. Otherwise, cut hole after T1-11 is installed and insert window on the outside, nail in place and trim. But the trim board has to have a small groove cut for the window flange or the trim will set tilted and look funny.
|
|
Rob_O
|
# Posted: 15 Nov 2011 10:45pm
Reply
Depends on the window. Mine are wood framed and install like Don stated, if I had vinyl windows with a nailer flange I'd do 'em like t_m_t said.
|
|
Martian
Member
|
# Posted: 16 Nov 2011 06:53am - Edited by: Martian
Reply
I built this cabin 12 years ago using T1-11 attached to the studs over 30# felt. The windows, vinyl, were put in first. 12" strips of felt paper went over the top and side flanges and under the bottom flange, the edges against the window were sealed with silicone, then the trim was put on. I flashed over the top trim before installing the field felt paper. The T1-11 was cut to fit with an 1/8" gap around the window. Before painting, I caulked everything really well, except the flashing, of course. There are no leaks or delamination. You can avoid cutting the rabbit in the back of the trim by using shims under the outside of the trim at the nailing points.
By using trim around the windows, it is much easier to change out the windows if the need arises.
Tom
|
|
chainsrgone
Member
|
# Posted: 16 Nov 2011 08:45am
Reply
Awesome. Thanks, guys. Lot of useful info for me to think about (as always).The windows are vinyl windows with a flange.
|
|
soundandfurycabin
Member
|
# Posted: 16 Nov 2011 03:41pm - Edited by: soundandfurycabin
Reply
I would go with tar paper first, then window, flashing tape and siding just like a regular wall with one difference.... The siding below the window should stop just below the edge of the window flange with galvanized z-flashing inserted behind the window flange and over the siding. Hide it with the trim.
|
|
chainsrgone
Member
|
# Posted: 16 Nov 2011 03:48pm
Reply
Thanks. So much to remember. I completely forgot about the z-flashing.
|
|
|
Bzzzzzt
Member
|
# Posted: 17 Nov 2011 10:37pm
Reply
I've just got one thing to say:
OOPS!
LOL
I built mine with one vinyl window that I got at an incredible deal on and I didn't put any OSB on. I put up Studs, then Tyvek wrap, then the window, then masonite siding. I had 2 other windows that I got from Habitat Restore that were new, but had obviously been laying around for a while and I got them really cheap as well. They were wood double pane windows that already had outside trim on them so those I put in after the masonite. It's not masonite brand per se, but it's the same sort of stuff. 4x8 sheets. I caulked the heck out of it and painted it so I'm hoping it'll last a couple years and I'll vinyl side the thing maybe.
|
|
toyota_mdt_tech
Member
|
# Posted: 18 Nov 2011 05:40pm - Edited by: toyota_mdt_tech
Reply
Or seal the window as good as can be with a sealer that stays put, then install your trim, seal the trim up tight except not at the bottom. If water gets in (and it will) you want it to also run out.
Dont "miter" your trim. Run the bottom piece as wide as the window itself, then run the side pieces flush at the botttom, then flush at the top of the window. Then the top piece of trim, run it all the way across. Seal well across the top, inside against the window, all around the sides of the trim and the butt joints. But no sealer all away across the bottom of the trim. You may even make a few cuts to aid in drainage too on that lower trim.
|
|
Martian
Member
|
# Posted: 18 Nov 2011 06:14pm
Reply
Another thing you can do is angle a circular saw to 45 degrees, set the blade to depth, and saw a kerf just above where the trim will be. You can square off the ends with a reciprocating saw. Then slide some flashing under siding and tar paper.
Tom
|
|
toyota_mdt_tech
Member
|
# Posted: 18 Nov 2011 10:42pm
Reply
Quoting: Martian Another thing you can do is angle a circular saw to 45 degrees, set the blade to depth, and saw a kerf just above where the trim will be. You can square off the ends with a reciprocating saw. Then slide some flashing under siding and tar paper.
Tom, great idea!
|
|
|
