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dpoisson
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# Posted: 3 Nov 2011 12:11pm
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Well, you probably saw my other thread about making a log cabin styled camp with 4x4's...I'm still keeping my options opened to do something the more traditional way.
I had a questions about a more traditional style construction. I'm still thinking 12x12, but I would like to forgo the whole soffit/flashing installation. So I wanted to have the roof come flush with the walls.
Is this a good idea? I was wondering, does one still need to install a drip edge (can it even be done??) if I go this route? Keep in mind that we're looking to build a cheap camp...walls (OSB panels) will only be covered by paint (no vinyl or else), so I'm not sure if this changes anything, as rain would probably drip from the roof onto the walls.
Otherwise, I would make the roof extend past the walls by just a couple of inches (4-6") on each sides, install a drip edge and flashing but install OSB panels instead of soffits.
But my first idea would be to make the roof flush with the walls: Can it be done?
Cheers!
David
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 3 Nov 2011 01:05pm
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Drip edge is there to protect the roof sheathing on a roof that overhangs. We don't want water soaking into the sheathing material.
You can do a roof without any over hang. I have done that. I used a rather large, 2" x 2" L-shaped drip cap. The one leg fits over the roof sheathing and under the shingles. The other leg comes down over the wall sheathing. That way the roof to wall joint has very good protection against water making its way into the joint where roof meets wall.
Water will always win in the end. Materials need to be selected and used in a manner to bring water to the exterior. Never rely on just caulk.
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Borrego
Member
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# Posted: 3 Nov 2011 03:43pm
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Anything can be done, but think about your framing first - you're going to have your rafters sitting on top of the top plate, right? Making the exterior taller than 8', so you'll have to use more siding, plywood will be over 8' tall, etc. And what about overhang for shade? I ran mine extra long for protection against both sun and rain. As Mtn Don said, water will always win and get in somehow, a builders biggest enemy, so why give it a head start?
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CabinBuilder
Admin
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# Posted: 3 Nov 2011 04:21pm
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You need roof overhands to keep rain water away from the cabin. In moist climates with significant amount of rainfall, liberal use of overhangs is strongly recommended.
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dpoisson
Member
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# Posted: 3 Nov 2011 04:47pm
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We basically do not want to do the fascia and soffit out of aluminum. Is there a cheap alternative? I was thinking of using 1/4 OSB boards as soffits (obviously, they won't let any air in, but we couldn't care less)
David
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MtnDon
Member
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# Posted: 3 Nov 2011 06:25pm
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OSB is not designed to be exposed to the open air. It is meant to be used to sheath and then be covered. IMO, 1/4" of anything )OSB, plywood, hardboard...) is too thin. Even if fully framed and nailed around the edges there will likely be waviness or sag here and there. Soffit material like the LP pressed fiber may be your best low cost bet.
As cabinbuilder pointed out overhang helps protect the walls. Properly sized overhang can also shade the windows from direct sun in the summer and yet allow the winter sun to strike the glass for some heat gain then. Of course heat gain may be minimal in winter when low-e glass is used. But summer shading of the glass helps keeps things cooler in summer.
With many things in construction there are real reasons why things are done a certain way.
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Anonymous
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# Posted: 5 Nov 2011 01:39am
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I have found a large overhang has significantly reduces weathering of windows and siding.
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TomChum
Member
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# Posted: 5 Nov 2011 02:29am - Edited by: TomChum
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Quoting: dpoisson We basically do not want to do the fascia and soffit out of aluminum.
Just put an overhang, 18" or so, and leave the rafters visible (no soffit) and use no fascia. Lots of cabins are built like that.
Right off the bat, you will have a lot of trouble explaining to everyone why you didn't put any overhang on the roof. And then in a few short years you will be explaining that it was indeed a mistake and you wish you'da put some overhang.
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Martian
Member
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# Posted: 5 Nov 2011 07:42am - Edited by: Martian
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What are you using for roofing?
If its metal, let it over-hang for a couple of inches. When building your walls, make them X number of inches (the length of the end cut on your rafters + sheathing) shorter than the siding material so your rafters butt into it while still supported by the walls. Cover the roof/wall joint with standard metal roofing drip edge. If you don't cover the top fasteners, it'll be easy to replace the OSB when it rots.
If you use shingles, Flash the wall/roof joint, apply two layers of 30# felt, bend the first two layers of shingles over the edge (stagger the butts at least 6"), face-nail the tabs, then apply the starter course for the shingles.
I see painted 1/2" OSB sheds all the time that have lasted 5-10 years. They usually rot out at the bottom.
Tom
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 6 Nov 2011 11:39am
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Quoting: CabinBuilder You need roof overhands to keep rain water away from the cabin. In moist climates with significant amount of rainfall, liberal use of overhangs is strongly recommended.
Agreed on the above quote. Overhang is a must. There are some Cape Cod homes with little on the sides, none on the gable ends, but made for constant high winds. No overhang requires constant attention. What would be the reason you don't want any overhang?
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