Malamute
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# Posted: 13 Sep 2011 10:57am - Edited by: Malamute
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If you can get the bucks (frames) and splines back out, you could shim them with long wood strips. They need to be able to settle down the splines as the logs settle, but shouldn't be loose. Should be a little free space above them also to allow the walls to settle and not crush the window frames. I use the black foam pipe insulation for those larger gaps above windows and doors, like extra large backer rod, and chink over them with Log Jam. May not be able to find that where you are, but whatever you use, it should be compressible. I've worked on old work (10 yrs old) that they didnt use a compressible enough material (high density foam, and too tightly packed fiberglass insulation) and the windows were being crushed and distorted.
You should be able to attach the bottom of your window frames to the wall, they shouldn't move with settling.
Chinking/caulking both inside and outsides of the window frames should help seal them also, but will need to be rechinked as the walls settle, and may need to be touched up again even later a time or two, mostly at the top, as theres more movement there.
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