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Borrego
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# Posted: 7 Aug 2011 05:25pm
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Hi All - Well, I'm debating the wisdom of installing a tile floor in the desert cabin and need some additional wisdom :-) I've done quite a bit of tile work through the years, but this one is different.....I know I could go with a wood or linoleum floor, but tile floors will be the best as far as maintenance, wood will get scratched by continuous incoming rocks and sand, linoleum would work, but is not approved by the missus. (not elegant enough:-)
So here are the problems:
1) I'm building a 'pole house' design cabin which has it's own inherent movement, plus I built it on 2 x 10's @ 24" OC and it has a bit of a 'springy' feel to the floor.
2) After I laid the 3/4 CDX ply subfloor, it sat for a good month in the desert climate before I got the walls/roof up to protect it. So it has warped and cupped the ply like you wouldn't believe (I still don't!)
So my solution (so far) is to take my power planer to the plywood and get it pretty smooth. Then I'll add another layer of 3/4" Ply in reverse direction, glued and screwed. On top of this would be Hardi-board, tile with a flexible thinset and grout like QuartzLock.
In y'all's opinions would this be sufficient to stop tile and/or grout cracking? I think yes for the tiles moving (I'll butt-set them in a running pattern) but I'm not sure about the grout
Oh and yes I have the room to add this extra flooring. Saw this coming and set the doors and top plate a bit higher :-)
Any other ideas are welcome too!
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Malamute
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# Posted: 7 Aug 2011 09:09pm
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I'm not a tile wiz, but think what you proposed would work. I've used the angle head grinder with coarse sanding discs to even up subfloor that had been rained on, best to have someone with the shop vac catching the dust as you go tho. I'd use the thicker cement board if it were me.
Not familiar with Quartzlock. Is it flexible?
One house had serious rain on it before getting the metal roof on. I thought of getting my drill to make drain holes to get the water off it. I had a brainstorm. I got my 22 pistol and a box of shorts out and got the floor to drain OK.
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nicalisa
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# Posted: 7 Aug 2011 10:05pm
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Quoting: Malamute One house had serious rain on it before getting the metal roof on. I thought of getting my drill to make drain holes to get the water off it. I had a brainstorm. I got my 22 pistol and a box of shorts out and got the floor to drain OK.
read this to my husband. I almost fell on the floor laughing. Now that is thinking out of the box.
Now, onto the tile issue, The hardiboard will stop some cracking, but if your building is subjected to movement this may not prevent all cracking. I know that you said that Lino was a no no according to the wife, but have you looked at the new slate lino tiles?? they are peel and stick, they look great, and if one gets a bit messed up, you can pull it up and replace. I have had more than one person come in (in the day time) and say that they love the slate and I have to point out that it is lino tiles. You can even do a brick pattern with them!
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 8 Aug 2011 01:48am
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Quoting: Borrego plus I built it on 2 x 10's @ 24" OC and it has a bit of a 'springy' feel to the floor.
What is the span on that?
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Borrego
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# Posted: 8 Aug 2011 08:58pm
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Quoting: MtnDon What is the span on that?
a little less than 12 feet. Are you thinking of adding support from underneath?
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 9 Aug 2011 09:40pm
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I would of went with 16" OC. I know with 2X8 at 16" centers, you can go just about 12 feet. I'd just add a beam down the center now that it is done. Be the easiest way. But not cheaper from the beginning. But cheaper fix now.
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Borrego
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# Posted: 9 Aug 2011 09:53pm
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I know. Even though the span was adequate, I wish I'd have done 16" OC, would've been better, oh well it's done. I don't know if a support beam underneath will 'stiffen' the floor though. It doesn't need support, it is really strong, it is the lateral shift I'm more concerned about.....
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 12 Aug 2011 02:00pm
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Add some blocking between then, should cure that. Easily done after the fact if you have enough room int he crawlspace. I'd add the support beam after blocking where the beam would go. That should be good enough.
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trollbridge
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# Posted: 12 Aug 2011 08:24pm - Edited by: trollbridge
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As a flooring installer with 23 years experience I do not recommend tiling your floor- there is just too much flex and even a 'flex agent' in your grout would not solve the problem. I would suggest sheet vinyl that looks just like tile. It cleans up nicely, has a rough texture and looks just like tile. We are going to do that in the kitchen area of our cabin and my wife is very picky also. We also built with 2x10's 24oc- wish we went 16oc.
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Borrego
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# Posted: 12 Aug 2011 08:39pm
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toyota - can't put blocking in, already insulated the floor and sealed the bottom. Thanks though!
trollbridge - that's what I kinda knew but didn't want to hear. If I really can't do tile, I'm thinking a wood floor would be our answer....
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