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Stokerace
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# Posted: 18 Dec 2024 05:26pm
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Just started designing and building a 28x28' bunkie / dining room as an addition to our summer cabin in NB Canada.
The plan is to have 3 casement windows that open, and 3 DIY windows that are framed into the vaulted area of the skillion roof (about 12' above the floor).
Since some people on here will have done their own windows before I'm looking for tips on the following:
- any serious drawbacks to using plexiglass
- anyone made their windows removable (wingnuts on a frame for example)
- DIY double glazing kits are readily available, are they worth it?
By the way, the windows are 36" wide by 18" high and will cost about $70 ea. The casement windows are $750 ea.
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ICC
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# Posted: 18 Dec 2024 07:46pm
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Quoting: Stokerace any serious drawbacks to using plexiglass
It is flexible. For a skylight in a skillion (shed) roof that could be an issue, depending on thickness. Most plexi scratches more easily than glass. Some plexi may degrade with UV exposure.. The lighter weight could be a plus.
Quoting: Stokerace double glazing
I have made wood windows, mostly to match or emulate old historic windows. However, for my home and cabin I bought the windows as those are thermally more efficient and require virtually no maintenance.
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travellerw
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# Posted: 18 Dec 2024 07:56pm
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Are you sure about that price? Home Depot Canada sells a 36" X 24" casement vinyl window for $250.
Maybe you got quoted such a high price due to the custom size. If you could modify the design a bit to fit a 36X24 or a 40X22 you could just buy from Home Depot.
There is no question that double pane Low E vinyl windows will outperform anything you can make yourself.
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Stokerace
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# Posted: 18 Dec 2024 10:25pm
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Yes the custom sizing must have triggered a non stock item pricing, which got me thinking "DIY". But for sure a 40x22 could work with a bit of modifying the framing plan. Glad to have that suggestion.
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Stokerace
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# Posted: 18 Dec 2024 10:27pm
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https://exceliteplas.com.au/blogs/news/how-to-make-secondary-glazing?srsltid=AfmBOop2 2p9l4Ub-S7RNvnSEyMLghJ-vhbf77C5joE8UX1byCRvnZLMi
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Brettny
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# Posted: 19 Dec 2024 08:48am
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Quoting: Stokerace es the custom sizing must have triggered a non stock item pricing, which got me thinking "DIY". But for sure a 40x22 could work with a bit of modifying the framing plan. Glad to have that suggestion
I have used far to many casement windows that the crank dosnt work or wont lock to ever use one of these in a building I'm building. Also since this is a new build make the windows standard sizes. You can also look for second hand windows.
In the last 3yrs I have bought 9 36x72in single hung vinyl new construction windows. I paid $130 for 6 and $165 for the last 3. All new in the wraper still.
Since windows can really add to a buildings price I would buy the windows first and make the rough opening fit them, same for doors.
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gcrank1
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# Posted: 19 Dec 2024 09:06am
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Had to replace Every casement in hour home basically every 15-20 years, all 2x now.
Never Again!
This last time we have sliders and sgl hung replacements.
Our new cabin has 6 sliders and one d.h. std sizes.
Don't use non-std sizes except for hard to do 'replacement' windows in an existing structure.
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ICC
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# Posted: 19 Dec 2024 09:05pm - Edited by: ICC
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The crank mechanism used in casement windows can be replaced if/when the parts show signs of wear. That is not all that difficult on the ones I have worked on when I was working at building and renovating.
I have some casement windows and a bunch of awning windows (like a casement hinged at the top) and I love them. OK, they were not cheap; they are Pella. However, I got the inside and outside colors I wanted, as well as excellent u-factor and SHGC ratings. Mine do not have cranks. Instead, they have a mechanism that uses a sliding handle/knob that opens and closes the window. There is the typical single arm locking lever that Pella has used for decades.
They seal extremely well. If I have a typical noisy older diesel running outside and close the window the sounds becomes basically inaudible as the locking lever is closed. No diesel odors make it through either.
Those are in my house. My cabin has Milgard sliders that I am also happy with.
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gcrank1
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# Posted: 20 Dec 2024 11:17am
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Our's were Crestline?, cranks needed replacement somewhere mid-life, not a big deal to do.
The real problem was that when the windows are 'cranked out' they are hanging on out there with only the hinge side for support. After a while the sag sets in and only gets worse until something gives from stress.
Maybe premium windows are better at this? But I aint going there..... Sliders have full support underneath. The 1st slider I put in to replace the 1st bad casement has been in somewhere around 20yrs and Is Just Fine (and it isn't a 'premium' window).
Ymmv
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ICC
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# Posted: 20 Dec 2024 08:06pm
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Oh yeah, sagging. I now remember seeing a couple of casement windows that had a sag problem We were doing a remodel and the guy had installed a cross-corner cable and turnbuckle so he could open and close them.
My hanger has two Pellas that were installed in the late 80s or early 90s. They still operate and fit without issues.
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