|
| Author |
Message |
utherjorge
Member
|
# Posted: 1 Dec 2024 08:37am
Reply
So, I have a nice little plot of land in PA I plan on building on.
The idea is to take one of those convertible A-frame plans and modifying it; instead of 10x8, I'm going to double the length overall to 10x16. I can share more about the build separately if anyone's interested.
The questions I have is about the base of the cabin, which isn't covered by said plans.
1. I see so many builds when I search these yonder interwebz. I plan on using 6 inch posts for the foundation, pole-barn style. How many would I need? The plan is for three a side, long side, with sufficiently strong sides (2x10 or greater) to prevent bouncing. Is that enough for posts?
2. Should I go 2x10 or greater?
I have seen a calculator that I don't understand. I have a Lowe's near me but there is a much better old-school lumber yard not so far from my spot that will deliver, and I don't yet know what they have for PT lumber.
|
|
spencerin
Member
|
# Posted: 5 Dec 2024 06:11pm
Reply
Three (3) a side is 8' spacing. I wouldn't go wider than that. Mine are 8' apart, too, with *doubled-up* 2 x 10s supporting the walls. Works fine for me. So, yes, you could use 2 x 10s, but I would double or triple them up because of the 8' span between posts. To be on the safer side, if you can, go 4 or 5 a side (still with doubled-up 2 x 10s).
BTW, if you do go the 6 x 6 post/pole-barn style foundation, you'll want to get the posts *CCA* treated, and use galvanized fasteners/hardware. CCA is the "old school" treatment that works well and which you can still buy for agricultural uses. And, if you can, I'd buy Post Protector sleeves for the posts. CCA-treated 6 x 6s will last a long time, but putting plastic sleeves on them before putting them into the ground is a very smart, low-cost preventative measure.....
|
|
Brettny
Member
|
# Posted: 6 Dec 2024 07:37am - Edited by: Brettny
Reply
A 10' wide A frame is going to have very little head room that a 6' person can actualy walk in..then you have alot of wased space.
Why not build a 8' or even 7'wall then put your roof on?
|
|
gcrank1
Member
|
# Posted: 6 Dec 2024 10:16am
Reply
Btdt, decided the A was not be any cheaper, would be darker (unless dormer windows on roof sides), less space efficient and harder to build than a 'box'.
Built a box in 1983-84 and never regretted it, especially after being in some A frames afterward.
BUT, it's Your Dream, do what You want. 
|
|
ICC
Member
|
# Posted: 6 Dec 2024 12:35pm
Reply
Quoting: utherjorge I have seen a calculator that I don't understand.
Which one? Perhaps I can help with that even though I have no love for A-frames because of their tunnel-like interior and slanted walls, headroom, etc.
|
|
ICC
Member
|
# Posted: 6 Dec 2024 12:39pm
Reply
Quoting: utherjorge The plan is for three a side, long side, with sufficiently strong sides (2x10 or greater) to prevent bouncing.
What does that mean? If you have printed or digitized plans, seeing them would make giving "how-to" advice easier.
|
|
paulz
Member
|
# Posted: 6 Dec 2024 03:02pm
Reply
Quoting: ICC What does that mean? If
3 posts per side, one each end one middle of beams.
|
|
ICC
Member
|
# Posted: 6 Dec 2024 05:40pm
Reply
Quoting: ICC sufficiently strong sides.
....that is a little vague, imo. And I would like to see how these components are to be used and fastened. Maybe it's just me, but I have seen enough "odd" ways that some diy builders do, to want to see what is meant by the word description
|
|
|
utherjorge
Member
|
# Posted: 15 Dec 2024 02:29pm
Reply
Quoting: spencerin Three (3) a side is 8' spacing. I wouldn't go wider than that. Mine are 8' apart, too, with *doubled-up* 2 x 10s supporting the walls. Works fine for me. So, yes, you could use 2 x 10s, but I would double or triple them up because of the 8' span between posts. To be on the safer side, if you can, go 4 or 5 a side (still with doubled-up 2 x 10s). BTW, if you do go the 6 x 6 post/pole-barn style foundation, you'll want to get the posts *CCA* treated, and use galvanized fasteners/hardware. CCA is the "old school" treatment that works well and which you can still buy for agricultural uses. And, if you can, I'd buy Post Protector sleeves for the posts. CCA-treated 6 x 6s will last a long time, but putting plastic sleeves on them before putting them into the ground is a very smart, low-cost preventative measure.....
Thank you for your reply! I don't mind going 4 or more a side. But did you have any in the center of yours?
Additionally: if you're doubling them up then you'd obviously shrink the overall width to keep the 10x16 size when doubling, I presume?
|
|
utherjorge
Member
|
# Posted: 15 Dec 2024 02:30pm
Reply
Quoting: Brettny A 10' wide A frame is going to have very little head room that a 6' person can actualy walk in..then you have alot of wased space. Why not build a 8' or even 7'wall then put your roof on?
8' on one side will be a dormer on the back side which will allow an 8x10 space for a loft to use, and also allow for windows to bring light in.
|
|
utherjorge
Member
|
# Posted: 15 Dec 2024 02:32pm
Reply
Quoting: paulz 3 posts per side, one each end one middle of beams.
correct.
|
|
|
