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neb
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# Posted: 12 Sep 2024 12:55am
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Anyone have an experience with a baffle that is part of the woodstove?
Are they worth leaving in or should I take it out? Any advice or experience with them please comment.
Thank You very much.
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gcrank1
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# Posted: 12 Sep 2024 01:04am
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Had an old '80's? vintage 'airtight' with interior baffling and firebrick channels. I wondered the same thing because I couldn't get a decent burn. I finally disassembled it and also found the mfg plate so I could look it up online....long story short, it was 'misassembled' by the prev owner and missing an important baffle.
No, it would not burn worth a hoot as just a basic 'box stove' sans baffling, it just became an inefficient metal fireplace with much of the heat up the stack.
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ICC
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# Posted: 12 Sep 2024 01:14am
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As gcrank1 has pointed out, baffles do have a purpose, but the stove must be assembled correctly. Years ago a friend picked up a VC Aspen like mine at a bargain price. It wouldn't burn worth a darn. After a while we figured out it had been taken spart for some reason and was incorrectly reassembled.
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neb
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# Posted: 12 Sep 2024 12:55pm
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So, are these stoves with baffles a good stove? Any experience with one and what you think of them?
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kittysmitty
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# Posted: 12 Sep 2024 04:19pm
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My stove had a cheap tin baffle that just slowed down the escape up the chimney. Burnt out in a short time. I haven't replaced it and the stove works fine. When lighting, I just leave the door open a bit until it get's going. Thought about replacing or designing a new baffle to slow down the burning, but why mess with something that's working
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ICC
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# Posted: 12 Sep 2024 05:41pm - Edited by: ICC
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Quoting: neb So, are these stoves with baffles a good stove?
Perhaps we should clarify what we are calling a baffle?
I'm thinking along the lines of a heavy gauge steel or cast iron plate that directs flame and/or smoke into a passage or chamber where secondary combustion can take place. Some of what pops to my mind are movable; heavy pin pivots that allow smoke to go directly up a chimney or force the smoke thru a moe convoluted path where gases may burn and more heat is extracted before the burnt gases (smoke) exits thru the chimney.
I call that a good stove design. More heat extracted from the burn and fewer pollutants out the chimney.
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gcrank1
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# Posted: 12 Sep 2024 06:17pm
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Yeah all that.
Mine had a heavy sheet steel top baffle that was supposed to carry a fire side set of fire-brick. It had been run without the f-brick and had warped badly; I think that left too many air gaps to run right.
I pounded it out with a heavy maul and tried test running but it still wouldn't work well, then I discovered there was a missing piece.
There are a couple of wood-stove specific forums that may have an answer. I learned a lot on them trying to get mine fixed (without being a member, just a visitor).
One thing for sure is that you Need To Have The Right Stack!
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neb
Member
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# Posted: 12 Sep 2024 08:48pm
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Thanks
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Brettny
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# Posted: 12 Sep 2024 08:54pm
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I would leave it in. Its built to have one in place and the more time heat stays in the stove the hotter it gets.
Not all stoves have a baffle. For instance both my vermont castings dont but they have a in stove damper. This makes the heat go into channels at the back of the stove.
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neb
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# Posted: 12 Sep 2024 10:48pm
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Quoting: Brettny Not all stoves have a baffle. For instance both my vermont castings dont but they have a in stove damper. This makes the heat go into channels at the back of the stove.
I did install a damper when I put the stove in. I will leave it wide open but I wanted one installed just I case I could use it with the stove.
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