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WILL1E
Moderator
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# Posted: 30 Jul 2024 02:38pm
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Hey ya'll! I'm contemplating a fall project for the cabin here in northern WI and i'm seeking guidance.
I don't want to attach the deck to the cabin, and I want it to ideally have a roof so that it's covered for year round use and weather conditions. I want the deck to run from the right corner in the photos below, to just left of the front door so that...so about 20'ish feet. Depth wise i'm thinking about 8, maybe 10' max.
Question is, what's the best way to design this to not only elevate the deck to match the entry height, but also have posts and structure for the roof? I know i'll need to add cleats to the roof to prevent the snow from sliding off in winter and crushing the deck roof.
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Brettny
Member
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# Posted: 31 Jul 2024 12:12pm
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Why not attach it? The cabin is on blocks?
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WILL1E
Moderator
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# Posted: 31 Jul 2024 12:24pm
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I don't have any specific reason other than I just don't want to  Just prefer to keep it as 2 separate structures.
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Brettny
Member
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# Posted: 31 Jul 2024 01:32pm
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Your porch is going to need alot of bracing if you dont attach it to the cabin. If it's going to be on block's and the hill looks as steep as it does it pictures you may have more issues.
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paulz
Member
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# Posted: 31 Jul 2024 02:20pm - Edited by: paulz
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I’d probably build the deck as freestanding (blocks at all corners at least) then screw it to your cabin girders with a few lag screws you could easily remove if you had to drag it somewhere.
Roof is another issue. No experience with snow or wind here. Looks like no easy way to attach to your cabin roof.
But you do need a deck, and BBQ, table, lounge chairs..
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travellerw
Member
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# Posted: 31 Jul 2024 05:10pm
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I'm doing the exact same thing on my cabin. I will also keep them as 2 structures as my cabin is freestanding on block, so I will keep the deck the same way. That way the 2 can move independently during frost events and won't cause issues with each other.
My deck roof (the part on the cabin side) will sit 6" below the cabin eave the slope away. I will probably only go with an 8ft deck (8ft out from the cabin) so I can get the slope right. I still need to do the math though (I would prefer a 10ft deck).
Basically, its just a free standing covered deck. So all those rules apply!
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gcrank1
Member
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# Posted: 31 Jul 2024 05:49pm
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Brace the upper corners well
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paulz
Member
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# Posted: 31 Jul 2024 09:12pm
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Good point, pretty hard to collapse a square. Might even run full diagonals on the sides.
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DaveBell
Moderator
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# Posted: 1 Aug 2024 01:34am
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It looks like 14 feet from under the over hang to the ground. That's a stretch for the lumber. Pour six concrete piers three - four feet down and three feet above ground to eat up some of that distance. Don't forget some rebar.
Stand up 4x4x12 from the top of the piers to about a foot down below the over hang next to the house. Looks like you can afford 10-12 inches between the siding and the 4x4 posts.
For the front three piers stand up 4x4x8 to provide good slope to shed snow and rain.
Put 2x10's at the top on the inside of the high and low side of the 4x4's with lag bolts and washers. Cut bird's mouth on the 2x8 joists (16" OC) so they lay flat on the 2x10's then attach with Simpson H-1 hurricane ties. Put corner brackets between the center 4x4 and 2x10's on the high and low sides.
Attach 2x10's level on the left side and right side with lag bolts and washers to make the structure rigid.
Top the joists with 5/8 plywood or CDX, roofing paper of brush on black sealant and metal roofing the same color as the house so it looks like a pro job. DO NOT crush the roof screws else it will leak when to rubber wears out.
Draw up plans with dimensions. The pier placement will be critical. Make your new stairs four feet wide next to the house on the right side.
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ICC
Member
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# Posted: 1 Aug 2024 05:06pm
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In many ways, travellerw is on the best route, freestanding with no physical hard connection to the dwelling structure. That makes keeping the dwelling structure safe from water intrusion, unwanted physical forces, etc. IMO, his is the best idea presented so far.
The details as to how to make the roofed deck structure not wiggle do present a big problem with what appears to be a significant slope at WILL1E's site. A non-roofed deck would have the potential for lots of wiggling in the wind and as people move about on it.
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A deck can be attached IF the ledger board can be properly secured to the dwelling structure foundation. Simpson makes products for that/ Dtt2-series, which requires access to the underside of the dwelling floor framing but is the most resistant to lateral forces.
Here's Simpson Strongtie illustrated guide.
You may note that none of the "official" guides show roofs. Because of code, a deck with a roof is not a simple deck. With the roof attached to the dwelling structure, the deck is treated as an addition to the home and has to meet all the same structural standards. Same for a freestanding deck with the roof or anything else attached to the dwelling.
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As an aside, a square is not hard to collapse. A triangle is impossible to collapse without breaking one of the three sides. A square is only as rigid as it's weakest corner assembly. Lots of bidirectional bracing, not just top corners. Or sheathed sides like wall sheathing of braced panels.
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Brettny
Member
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# Posted: 3 Aug 2024 08:08pm
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I can see a easy way to attach the roof to the current roof. Remove the butter and facia..now insert new porch rafter and slide the new metal roof under what's alreaty there. Getting those rafters to sit on the top plate will make things nice and strong on that end
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