|
| Author |
Message |
jp0639
Member
|
# Posted: 29 May 2024 02:32pm
Reply
16x16 full scribe scandanavian saddle notched, out of red pine. Logs walls only, opted for a 2x roof system as this is a solo operation and will be moving it into the bush. Currently trying to flush out some details. I am a former mil pilot with a head injury..not a builder.
Looking at: 10/12 slope, 2x12x16 ridge, 2x10 24 o.c for first 8’ (loft w/ dormer) and hoping to figure out how to do 48” for joists through the remaining 8’. Will use simpson strong ties at ridge and joist.
Any help would be appreciated
|
|
DaveBell
Moderator
|
# Posted: 29 May 2024 02:43pm
Reply
Don't attach the loft joists to the wall studs, nail or screw a shorter 2x10 to the wall stud and put the loft joist on top of the added stud to transfer the load to the foundation.
|
|
jp0639
Member
|
# Posted: 29 May 2024 03:28pm - Edited by: jp0639
Reply
So a mini wall out of 2x10s sitting on top of the log wall?
|
|
ICC
Member
|
# Posted: 29 May 2024 09:48pm
Reply
..... the wall studs
What studs? Is this not a true log-walled structure? Or what am I missing?
But that does raise the question of the sizing of the loft floor joists for the 16 foot span.
16 x 16 foot outside dimensions? What mean diameter logs for the walls?
|
|
ICC
Member
|
# Posted: 29 May 2024 09:56pm
Reply
So the loft floor joists will restrain the outward forces from the rafters to the sidewalls. I am not a log builder so do not know how stiff scribed log and saddle notched sidewalls can be, though I suspect quite stiff. My question is how they will stand up to the outward forces in the non-lofted end? Any idea on that? What sort of snow loads, though the 10/12 pitch will help with that and also reduce the outward rafter tail forces?
Thinking about the desire for 48" rafter spacing???? What sort of roof sheathing would be used? Most commonly used materials would not be suitable for a 48" span.
|
|
Brettny
Member
|
# Posted: 29 May 2024 11:00pm
Reply
Can you draw a picture?
|
|
jp0639
Member
|
# Posted: 30 May 2024 01:18pm
Reply
So a mini wall out of 2x10s sitting on top of the log wall?
|
|
jp0639
Member
|
# Posted: 30 May 2024 01:28pm
Reply
No studs, 8-10” logs, 16x16 outside dimensions. Ply sheathing was the plan, though i’m open to suggestions. 48” spacing was on joists only, rafters continue at 24. Thank you all!
|
|
|
DaveBell
Moderator
|
# Posted: 30 May 2024 01:36pm
Reply
Quoting: ICC What studs? Is this not a true log-walled structure? Or what am I missing?
No, I got confused thinking of Gcrank's beautiful cabin. Sorry, I had stud walls on the brain.
|
|
jp0639
Member
|
# Posted: 30 May 2024 04:45pm
Reply
Pic
|
|
jp0639
Member
|
# Posted: 30 May 2024 04:54pm
Reply
Plan to plane the top logs and put down a 2x10 top plate for the birds mouth to rest on
|
|
Brettny
Member
|
# Posted: 31 May 2024 03:24pm - Edited by: Brettny
Reply
You want to do 48in spacing for loft floor joists? Or 48in span to hold the walls together with a cathedral ceiling? If it's just to hold the walls together I would just to a single joist..if even that because your walls are logs.
|
|
ICC
Member
|
# Posted: 31 May 2024 07:32pm
Reply
I would look into a log as a tie neam between the log wall tops. It is just a question of what fasteners, what hardware to use.
|
|
Royalwapiti
Member
|
# Posted: 2 Jun 2024 11:25am - Edited by: Royalwapiti
Reply
Wouldn't the 2x10's just be a rafter tie and the floor joist of the loft?
I did a 8 foot spacing for my rafter ties, no loft, they were 14' long (small cabin), used a collar tie on every rafter which was 2' on center. Doubled up the rafter ties on the 8' mark on each side of that rafter. Those will become a decorative beam.
We ripped a hip roof off that had a sloped roof attached. But left a portion of the hip on one end.
|
|
jp0639
Member
|
# Posted: 2 Jun 2024 01:16pm
Reply
I was thinking the 2x10s would be both loft joist and serve as rafter ties. Do you think i’d be ok with only that half tied, or should add a log tie in as well?
|
|
|
