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ThisOldCabinNJ
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# Posted: 3 May 2024 10:23am
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Hi Fellow Cabiners-
I'm finally getting to building my bathroom and would love some design suggestions from you's guys (as we say here in Jersey).
Bathroom is 8'x8' for all intents/purposes. I originally planned for an bath tub but was convinced to go with a neo-angle shower so the room is already different than my original 'plan'.
My ask today is what to do with the ceiling. I could just stick with painted drywall then thought 'how boring' that'd look for a log cabin (despite the drywall on the walls).
Option 1 is to re-purpose some of the MANY 3/4" tongue and groove boards I have left over. I have a lot. I have a few concerns with this option. a) each board is coated in 3/4 century of cigarette smoke film. b) they're shellac'd - before I can even apply some sort of clear finish over the boards, I have to diligently scrub each board down to get the nicotine film and the old shellac off. It's not the end of the world but a lot of work. Then the question becomes, what do I top coat the boards with for a bathroom ceiling that'll be exposed to moisture? I'm thinking oil-based Polyurethane or maybe Spar Varnish (i'm not familiar with the product other than I know its used for exterior use)? I'm not a big fan of Polycrylic and I think shellac (albeit probably the easiest) might have issues in the future from prolonged moisture from the shower.
Option 2 I came across an idea today to use 1/4" tongue and groove cedar (the paneling kind you can get at the orange big box store). I don't think I can afford 3/4" cedar. - again the question becomes what do I top coat the wood with? Do I even top coat cedar? Has anyone used 1/4" board before and does it warp over time? Again, prolonged moisture might cause issues. Any thoughts on how to finish the corners around the room (where the ceiling meets the wall? - I don't think they make cedar bed or crown moldings at least without going to a specialty lumber yard).
Option 3 was to use vinyl tongue and grove boards but this limits me to only white. What do I use to glue the vinyl to the ceiling? Vinyl would probably be the best choice for moisture/ceiling.
Any other input is greatly appreciated. I'll post a picture of the current bathroom space for reference.
Thanks!
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travellerw
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# Posted: 3 May 2024 10:30am
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My vote is cedar. You don't have to top coat it with anything and it will stand up just fine. They use it in steam saunas without issues. As a plus, it will smell nice.
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paulz
Member
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# Posted: 3 May 2024 10:41am
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That sounds good. Only caveat is lighting. Mine is white Sheetrock, along with the walls. Boring for sure but at least I can see with one measly LED. Looks like you have a big window though..
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Steve_S
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# Posted: 3 May 2024 11:01am
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My bathroom has drywall on the walls. Ceiling are 1" x 6"Red Pine T&G with Oil Based polyurethane (diamond Coat for Floors actually). The floor in front of my Tub/Shower (which is a raised floor over the concrete slab) is Western Red Cedar which also used the Diamond Coat Poly for floors. Several years and not a single discolouration or stains. A point - lessons leaned long ago - The ceiling light fixture (LED) is installed as normal and the hole goes through the Pine, before installing the light, I also put a coating of Poly on the cut.
My kitchen also has pine ceilings and also coated with the same Poly, as is all my Cabinetry which is all made using 1" Pine. Any areas subject to damp / moisture etc should not use Shellac. Also the Poly makes for easier cleanups etc...
I love Shellac, used gallons of it in my house and I am happy with it... BUT you cannot top coat with poly or other stuff without serious prep. I suggest you try on a small 6" piece of scrap and see what happens. I have read "opinions" that say any "water based" paint etc cannot go over Shellac, this I know to be true BUT they also say that oil based "paint" is OK provided normal prep is done and that the shellac will not be affected. I don't know as I never tried it.
A Word:
I don't know if Diamond Coat Oil Based Poly is still available or not. My experience with it, is that it's strong and can give you headaches & worse, make you you have "Damned Good Ventilation" and keep kids away from it... slow to dry & set but seriously tough when dry & cured. (designed for floors after all)
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Brettny
Member
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# Posted: 3 May 2024 11:31am
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I would be real careful on what porus surfaces you use in the ceiling of a bathroom. They can start to mold real quick even with a fan.
I have a real good vent fan in my bath but used flat ceiling paint on the ceiling and after a few years I noticed some mold growing.
I'd you must put wood up there I would coat all edges, and the back before you install.
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gcrank1
Member
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# Posted: 3 May 2024 08:04pm
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How about using the new-gen laminate flooring for the b-room ceiling?
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Fanman
Member
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# Posted: 5 May 2024 01:33pm
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Quoting: Steve_S I love Shellac, used gallons of it in my house and I am happy with it... BUT you cannot top coat with poly or other stuff without serious prep. I suggest you try on a small 6" piece of scrap and see what happens. I have read "opinions" that say any "water based" paint etc cannot go over Shellac, this I know to be true BUT they also say that oil based "paint" is OK provided normal prep is done and that the shellac will not be affected.
Actually, shellac is an excellent base for almost any other finish... EXCEPT polyurethane. If you want to topcoat with poly, you need to use dewaxed shellac (sold by Zinsser as "sanding sealer", also available elsewhere). The advantage of using dewaxed shellac under poly is that you don't need as many costs of poly... I like working with shellac, hate working with poly... but it's the best choice for wet areas.
At home, I did the bathroom ceiling with the smooth shiny white hardboard, attached with contact cement; it's bright and has held up very well. At the cabin, the bathroom ceiling (no shower) is just the unfinished underside of the roof sheathing. Our shower is semi outside, under the unfinished chestnut roof boards... again no trouble, but it's well ventilated.
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matthewwolf
Member
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# Posted: 6 May 2024 07:14pm
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For the ceiling, using those tongue and groove boards you've got could really amp up the cabin vibe, even though it sounds like a bit of a scrubbing marathon. If you go down that road, Spar Varnish could be a winner for its moisture resistance, keeping things looking fresh even in steamy conditions.
Option 2 with the 1/4" cedar sounds pretty slick, and you might not need to coat it at all, since cedar holds up well in damp environments. Just make sure to check on that warping issue if it's thinner.
Vinyl could indeed be the easiest and most moisture-resistant, even if it means sticking with white, which isn't a bad thing,it can brighten up the space beautifully! You could use a construction adhesive designed for vinyl; it should hold up well.
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Helwenbo
Member
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# Posted: 8 May 2024 06:32am
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For your cabin ceiling, tongue and groove boards treated with Spar Varnish could really bring out a rustic charm and handle moisture well. Alternatively, 1/4" cedar is naturally moisture-resistant and low-maintenance, though watch for warping due to its thinness. Vinyl is the easiest option, moisture-resistant, and can brighten the space with its white color, needing just a specific adhesive for installation. Each choice has its advantages, so weigh your priorities like maintenance, look, and durability before deciding.
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gcrank1
Member
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# Posted: 8 May 2024 12:04pm
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Imo 'spar varnish' isn't that good of an idea. Look up what the wooden boat restorers are using today if you want the right varnish type product for a moist/wet environment.
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Fanman
Member
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# Posted: 9 May 2024 02:41am
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Quoting: gcrank1 Imo 'spar varnish' isn't that good of an idea. Look up what the wooden boat restorers are using today if you want the right varnish type product for a moist/wet environment.
What are they using? Not polyurethane I presume, as poly doesn't handle UV very well and will start to flake off in a couple of years (not an issue indoors).
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Helwenbo
Member
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# Posted: 10 May 2024 12:46pm
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These varnishes are formulated for high moisture resistance and include features like UV protection. Brands like Epifanes and TotalBoat are highly recommended. Consulting specialized marine forums or marine supply stores can also provide valuable insights and product suggestions.
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