|
| Author |
Message |
WILL1E
Moderator
|
# Posted: 11 Apr 2024 11:21am
Reply
Being unproductive at work today so i'm compiling a list of projects for the cabin this year and prioritizing things based on budget and necessity.
One item is running water to the cabin from my sand point well i drove a few years ago. I've already got the electric pump and small enclosure setup, however the only thing it's supplying at this point is my outdoor shower which gets connected via a hose from the well pump to my portable propane water heater in the shower.
I've been thinking about running a line in the ground to avoid the hose. But i'm also thinking about running some water to the cabin bathroom (hand washing) at a minimum, but then also possibly to the kitchen if i decide to put a sink in. Anyways, i hate soldering and copper is $$$. So i'm thinking of going the PEX route and setting the cabin up much like a camper where the system can be easily drained in the fall for winter.
So the question is, which PEX crimps are the best to use? Aside from the crimper, is there anything else that's a worthwhile tool to get for working with PEX? I'm hoping to just buy a ton of crimps, tubing and a bunch of various connectors to keep up there.
|
|
pabear89
Member
|
# Posted: 11 Apr 2024 11:47am
Reply
I went with the pex system and like the ring crimp type over the sharkbite.
It was easy and once you get used to working the tubing coils there was less connectors used.
A good tubing cutter is a must have for clean straight and non crushing end to work with.
Shark bite can be used in tight spaces over the ring but planning can over come that problem. just my 2cts.
|
|
Brettny
Member
|
# Posted: 11 Apr 2024 12:15pm
Reply
I have used the ring crimp, the cinch and push to connect. None really have issues becids the cinch can get in the way. Just buy what ever is cheapest.
When I completely re plumbed my house 11yrs ago with the stainless cinch clamps. I have even had push to connect fittings right ontop of a water heater work for 10+yrs with no issues.
|
|
WILL1E
Moderator
|
# Posted: 11 Apr 2024 12:33pm
Reply
Great feedback!
Any preferences on poly vs. brass connectors/fittings?
|
|
ICC
Member
|
# Posted: 11 Apr 2024 12:59pm - Edited by: ICC
Reply
Generally poly fittings have thicker walls ythan the brass. That can reduce flow. Brass is likely stronger as well.
We have used the Wirsbo/Uponer clamp system since PEX first became available in the US. The tool costs a lot more but their system makes a better seal, IMO.
Between the s/s pinch clamps and the crimp rings I believe the s/s pinch rings are better. Plus in close spaces the crimp tool needs more clearance all around the PEX pipe and fitting than the s/s pinch clamps.
|
|
travellerw
Member
|
# Posted: 11 Apr 2024 05:48pm
Reply
Quoting: Brettny PEXCrimpvspexcla.jpg PEXCrimpvspexcla.jpg
I prefer these ones. You can get them super cheap on Amazon and I have never had an issue (2 houses and a cabin).
|
|
Brettny
Member
|
# Posted: 11 Apr 2024 06:09pm
Reply
I have only ever used brass fittings and have reused a bunch in non critical areas. Really if you dont absolutely need tight turns you will use very few fittings. I would suggest you get some kind of manifold.
|
|
WILL1E
Moderator
|
# Posted: 11 Apr 2024 09:54pm
Reply
travellerw the crimp or the clamp?
|
|
|
travellerw
Member
|
# Posted: 11 Apr 2024 09:59pm - Edited by: travellerw
Reply
The stainless cinch crimps. Like these.
You can buy a starter kit with the crimp tool, pex cutter and 20(or so) rings for like $30.
|
|
jsahara24
Member
|
# Posted: 12 Apr 2024 09:27am
Reply
Quoting: travellerw The stainless cinch crimps. Like these. You can buy a starter kit with the crimp tool, pex cutter and 20(or so) rings for like $30. 61bGO10n2rL.jpg
After the 08 recession I started buying foreclosed homes, many of them were not winterized and had broken waterlines....
I ended up replumbing many of those homes, all using PEX and these clamps. I also plumbed my cabin with this setup. I have had 0 issues with leaks since then....
I do not have any experience with the other clamps...
|
|
spencerin
Member
|
# Posted: 13 Apr 2024 09:57pm
Reply
My understanding is the clamp can be (is?) better than the crimp. But, and this is a matter of opinion, in most basic residential applications, both are likely equally as good.
Why not do PEX-a? I like PEX-a for the fact that it's easier to fit/connect, and fittings aren't as restrictive as PEX-b's.....
|
|
Steve_S
Member
|
# Posted: 14 Apr 2024 01:53pm
Reply
Good to see you getting "back to it" Willie 
Just my thoughts. I had previously used sharkbite types (early in the 90's on up) with mixed results and of course they evolved & improved but didn't want issues.
When I built this place I chose Pex with crimp rings, brass fittings. Even the radiant heating system for my slab was provided with rated Pex, Crimp rings etc. I have not had a single issue with any of the Pex related materials. I use quality crimp rings & crimper (I spent the bit extra) but that was years ago when I stocked up and still have on hand.
A BAD Lesson learned with more recent Brass Products like vales etc... Sad to say but they are not what they used to be... I have had 2 valves (twist type) fail, 1 in 1 yr, another in 3. BUT it is the brass that Cracked along the side and started spewing water... This is not the only cast/machined brass items that I have had problems pop up with.
See Photo Source of Valves: Home Depot.
|
|
Brettny
Member
|
# Posted: 14 Apr 2024 08:34pm
Reply
Is that a pex valve? I dont think il ever use a gate valve if a ball valve will work.
|
|
Steve_S
Member
|
# Posted: 14 Apr 2024 09:06pm - Edited by: Steve_S
Reply
That isn't a Pex Valve. Located inside the house as part of my shower setup. Never frozen or subject to any kind of abuse.
|
|
ICC
Member
|
# Posted: 14 Apr 2024 09:19pm
Reply
Quoting: Brettny I dont think il ever use a gate valve if a ball valve will work.
I prefer ball valves except for one particular situation. If a ball valve is used in a location that may be subject to freezing temperatures I don't like ball valves if there is any chance the valve may be left in closed position. That can trap a little slug of water that will crack the brass body if a freezing temperature is encountered. If the ball valve can be left open or if you or whoever is certain to drain the water before re-closing the ball valve nothing bad will happen. But brain fade can set in and the result can be a cracked valve body. I found out the hard way a few years ago.
Other than that I love ball valves.
|
|
|
