|
| Author |
Message |
GoneCountry
Member
|
# Posted: 27 Nov 2023 08:27am - Edited by: GoneCountry
Reply
Hello everyone. We had a front porch added to our cabin about 8 months ago and I recently stained it. The guy at Sherwin Williams recommended using a roller to make the job go faster. I ended up using a brush for most of the job since there were so many tight places...I used the roller on the ceiling and it worked fine with only a few minimal bubbles, most went away and only a few left dark circles. However, on the floorboards, I have a living nightmare.
I done about a 4th of them before realizing the bubbles wasn't going to go away. Even when trying to apply the stain thinner, there were still bubbles so I took the brush and smoothed out what hadn't dried and finished the other boards with a brush too.
Now I'm sanding the terribly spotted boards. It's been 10 days since the stain was applied and my sander is still gumming up from the stain not being fully cured. I'm in Arkansas and our weather has turned cooler since the stain was applied. I can keep using a wire brush to unclog my sandpaper...thought of renting a floor sander but the guy at the rental store said it would clog just the same. It's a huge front porch (10x50). Also considering stripper or pressure washing to help before sanding. Thoughts?
Thanks in advance
|
|
gcrank1
Member
|
# Posted: 27 Nov 2023 08:31am
Reply
Imo you need to be talking to who you bought the product from.
|
|
ICC
Member
|
# Posted: 27 Nov 2023 09:24am - Edited by: ICC
Reply
Yes, talk to the person or their manager. But at this point removal is the real solution.
The problem may have been the new wood used to build the deck. Pine and cedar can have what we call a "mill glaze". This can develop when the surfaces are run through the milling machine. The cutting knives get hot and can cause sugars in the wood to create a surface glaze. Stains will have trouble adhering to that.
New wood should be either sanded well or, preferably, cleaned with a wood deck cleaner/stripper followed by a light pressure washing. Sometimes scrubbing the wood with a stiff bristle brush is necessary before the pressure washing.
After the wood stripper has been applied, scrubbed and pressure washed, apply a wood brightener. This will allow the wood pores to open up and the stain to penetrate the wood as it was intended. Light sanding may be needed as the cleaning may create a "fuzz".
-izzy
|
|
Tim_Ohio
Member
|
# Posted: 27 Nov 2023 09:56am
Reply
Did you do any prep of the surface before staining? If it sat for 8 months it was dirty.
Was it a modern polymer (latex) deck stain or an oil stain?
Surface prep for the latex is critical. The oil is not so, but still a factor.
Tim
|
|
GoneCountry
Member
|
# Posted: 27 Nov 2023 10:36am
Reply
Tim, yes, the wood had a gray weathered film and I sanded it down to the white. It was also cleaned with deck cleaner and lightly pressure washed before sanded. It's an oil base stain.
|
|
gcrank1
Member
|
# Posted: 27 Nov 2023 12:48pm
Reply
Document your prep procedure and products used and go into the store manager (imo and e no sense talking to a salesperson who will have to get the manager anyway).
Ya catch more flies with honey than with vinegar.
Start out with,"Ive got a big problem, maybe you can help".
Perhaps pictures of what happened too?
|
|
ICC
Member
|
# Posted: 27 Nov 2023 08:26pm
Reply
Solid color stain? The wood may have had too much moisture content.
Info link
-izzy
|
|
GoneCountry
Member
|
# Posted: 27 Nov 2023 09:23pm
Reply
Izzy, it was transparent stain. I don't think it was anything to do with the moisture content because when using the brush, I got a perfect finish with no bubbles.
|
|
|
ICC
Member
|
# Posted: 27 Nov 2023 10:00pm - Edited by: ICC
Reply
Got a picture or two of the problem effect?
-izzy
|
|
GoneCountry
Member
|
# Posted: 28 Nov 2023 09:09am
Reply
[img=null][/img]
|
|
Tim_Ohio
Member
|
# Posted: 28 Nov 2023 09:40am
Reply
You might try applying the stain, then wiping it off with a rag. This will take off any residual that would bubble up on the surface.
In it’s present condition, try using a rag with the solvent suggested for thinning it and see if it might dissolve and smooth out the appearance.
|
|
GoneCountry
Member
|
# Posted: 28 Nov 2023 12:59pm
Reply
I may try that Tim, thanks. Thanks to everyone else so far too. I have over half of the problem boards redone but still hoping to find a faster and easier solution. Applying stripper before sanding has helped.
|
|
Brettny
Member
|
# Posted: 29 Nov 2023 10:11am
Reply
It does look like the wood didnt absorb much of that stain for some reason. Is the temperature correct to use the product?
I have applied a quality oil based stain over green rough cut wood and it would have taken a second coat if I applied it.
Did you back brush like your suposto?
|
|
GoneCountry
Member
|
# Posted: 5 Dec 2023 10:24am
Reply
Brettny, the weather was perfect. Temps were in the mid 60's. This is transparent stain and only one coat was recommended. Yes I back brushed.
|
|
Brettny
Member
|
# Posted: 6 Dec 2023 10:27am
Reply
Did you ever go back to the company?
|
|
GoneCountry
Member
|
# Posted: 15 Dec 2023 09:51am
Reply
I never went back to the company (Sherwin Williams). It aggravates me that the man working in there highly recommended the roller to make the job go faster but didn't even warn me that bubbles could be a problem on a new deck with new lumber. I have a lot of experience with paint but this was my first experience with stain. Google said the bubbles would go away so I stained more of the deck than I should have before using the brush to spread them out. I didn't feel like Sherwin Williams would be able to help me out in any way so I toughed it out and stripped it, resanded, and restained. Went half insane but got it done.
|
|
|
