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sambelletto
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# Posted: 10 Sep 2023 08:04pm
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Hi, looking to build a very simple bunkhouse. No one is living there full time and the weather is mild in my part of California. I really like the idea of only using shiplap, no sheathing, insulation or interior siding. I’m modeling after old time cabins and even the National park system. Exposed studs and a coat of white paint on the inside. Am I stupid? Nuts? Both?
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Brettny
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# Posted: 10 Sep 2023 08:31pm
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With no insulation and nothing interior to cover the walls it should be fine. Having large roof overhangs can really help. You can get some water damage in the cracks that cant dry but cawlking and a good oil based stain can help this.
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sambelletto
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# Posted: 10 Sep 2023 08:36pm
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Thanks forquick response. Hadn’t thought of caulking it. Was thinking the white paint (primer) on the inside would also help.
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gcrank1
Member
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# Posted: 10 Sep 2023 08:39pm - Edited by: gcrank1
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If you dont mind some gaps/leaks it will work as well (or as poorly) as it always has. You will have some knots shrink and fall out too.
A better way would be to do a double layer with a 'membrane' between them.
I would prefer doing a waterproof membrane over the first layer rather than the old 'tarpaper' method; nail up battens and nail the outer layer to the battens.
This will let the siding breath/dry without rot and mould between (its a 'rain-wall concept) and still give you relatively airtight/draft free living with the 'board look' interior you are after.
Yes, it costs more, but its a better build (think 'more than just a shack').
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spencerin
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# Posted: 10 Sep 2023 10:16pm
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sambelletto, it all depends on what you're wanting to get out of it. It would work fine if you want to keep it simple. I do recommend using caulk to seal up seams like suggested. Keeping water, bugs, and drafts out will make it that much more enjoyable for minimal extra expense and effort.
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sambelletto
Member
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# Posted: 10 Sep 2023 11:55pm
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I think I’m leaning towards caulk and oil finish over gcranks prudent suggestion because if I don’t find that it is sufficient, then I can add the layer after as well. I think I’m gathering that it’s at least not too stupid of an idea.
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Brettny
Member
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# Posted: 11 Sep 2023 06:29am
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The issue I see with putting a membrane behind the exterior shiplap is it can sit in there between the two layers and rot the wood quicker.
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Grizzlyman
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# Posted: 11 Sep 2023 08:57am
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I wonder if you could find a tongue and groove with a real square shoulder that would mimic the look of shiplap but would be much better at sealing. You could forgoe the caulking then.
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sambelletto
Member
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# Posted: 11 Sep 2023 02:01pm
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Just to clarify, if I were to use caulking, are we talking about a bead along the joints during install or at the seams after? I would think the former?
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Brettny
Member
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# Posted: 11 Sep 2023 02:43pm
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I would do after and even give the pine a month or two to settle in. Then really squeeze in the cawlk to the seams.
Have you thought about useing beveled edge siding?
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gcrank1
Member
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# Posted: 11 Sep 2023 04:41pm
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When I used square edged I had to take a hand plane to every tongue And every groove to get them to fit together; just too much variation in wood moisture level/expansion and contraction.
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sambelletto
Member
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# Posted: 11 Sep 2023 05:30pm
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That sounds like a nightmare.
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ICC
Member
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# Posted: 11 Sep 2023 06:44pm
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I am assuming the shiplap boards will be installed horizontally.
How do you intend to fasten the shiplap boards to the studs? Shiplap siding is best installed using two nails per stud. One nail can be driven through the upper cutout lip and will be hidden by the next higher horizontal board. The second nail will be driven through the entire thickness of the board near the lower edge.
The lower row of nails can be set into shallow holes that can be plugged with glued-in plugs which will hide that row of fasteners. On a rustic shed, I imagine the lower row of nails would be simply face-nailed.
The overlap of the upper and lower lips will pretty much stop water and air from going through the joints between the boards as the nails will hold the boards in place against each other. That is part of the whole idea of using shiplap. I believe caulking will be a pita to apply and an extra expense that is actually not necessary. And if staining the exterior is desired... well caulk and transparent stains don't work well together.
If you really want to make a more weather-resistant wall I would follow in gcrank1's steps, more or less. I say more or less, as I would likely go ahead and wrap the exterior in #15 building felt (tar paper) instead of a synthetic. Then nail firing strips vertically over the studs and install a second layer of shiplap.
Keep in mind that one of the disadvantages to using horizontal boards instead of sheet goods like plywood or OSB, is that the panels make the structure much more rigid than what can be achieved with just horizontal boards. A well-built structure using 1x boards of any kind will have the boards nailed in place on a diagonal. I just mention that as an FYI.
The shiplap boards are usually installed with a gap between the horizontal edges. A well-made shiplap board will be machined to automatically provide the gap. The gap is needed to allow for the inevitable shrinking and expansion that will happen with moisture changes. The gap is also usually looked upon as a pleasing architectural detail. I look at the gap as a place for dirt to accumulate. This, to me, is a bother on interior walls. The gap makes cleaning more difficult. That's the way I see it; other may differ.
I do prefer T&G over shiplap for the same reason grizzlyman mentioned; a better seal. However, if this was a single-layer T&G board wall I would still apply a row of open face-nails along the lower edge. I have seen T&G (both 1" and 2") warp away from the framing on an exterior wall too often to want to trust the walls' integrity to a single row of hidden nails.
Hope I have made my thoughts clear. Ask questions if in doubt.
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gcrank1
Member
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# Posted: 11 Sep 2023 06:52pm
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Note that there diff types of 'black paper', some 'breathes' (building felt?) other is well tarred and pretty waterproof (tar paper?).
Then the new-gen stuff like Tyvek that breathes and other stuff that doesnt (dont have a name brand).
All info is online though 
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ICC
Member
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# Posted: 11 Sep 2023 08:06pm - Edited by: ICC
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Building felt and tar paper are basically different names for the same thing. For wall use the lighter weight #15 is normally used while heavier #30 is more for roofing.
Building felt is commonly made from natural materials like wood cellulose soaked with a protective asphalt layer, known as bitumen, to give it water-shedding properties. Water shedding, not water proof. The fibers do absorb moisture. When that happens the fibers swell and are able to shed water even better. When the material begins to dry out the water vapor escapes to the outside usually. A good synthetic house wrap also sheds water. It has perforations too small to allow liquid water to pass through but large enough to allow water vapor through..Either should end up performing the same task. Most often the felt is less expensive and comes in smaller rolls.
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gcrank1
Member
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# Posted: 11 Sep 2023 09:42pm
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 Thanx ICC, we can count on you
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sambelletto
Member
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# Posted: 11 Sep 2023 10:23pm
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Seriously, thank you for all that info. To everyone, actually. I’ll keep you updated. Have the foundation and subfloor in already, hoping to frame and side the first week of October.
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gcrank1
Member
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# Posted: 12 Sep 2023 07:39pm - Edited by: gcrank1
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Putting a layer of t&g on the studs diagonally does give a really good look exposed inside. Give some thought to the 'artistry' of the placement and even the wood grain/figure/knots exposed if you might decide to clear finish rather than paint?
Fwiw, I spent some time in my youth (Im 70) in the old time cottages/cabins/fish & hunt camps that were like that. Some were whitewashed (if not kept well cleaned they looked...dirty; everything shows.
Some were the 'tarpaper shacks', just tarpaper held down with lathe strips and long roofing nails on the outside. One I remember had the old 'rolled roofing', a real upgrade from tarpaper.
A lot of people around here use sawmill slabs for 'siding' when building a shack/shed; the log slabs cut off at the mill to get the log to a point they can start cutting boards. The slab packs are cheaper than boards.
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