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# Posted: 7 Jun 2023 10:40am - Edited by: Grizzlyman
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Place is coming along nicely. Almost entirely done with the cabin. See kitchen below. dimensions of kitchen are 10X11 and bedroom next to it are 10X11 as well.

W hadn't originally planned it, but were thinking of doing a nail-up tin ceiling in the kitchen and bedroom- Probably copper or shiny bronze. Anyone work with these before? Tiles are 24"X 24" tin.

I did a little research on installation. Nails are recommended every 6" around perimeter. and it looks like there are two recommended options:

1. Plywood over ceiling joists, then nail to plywood.
2. Furring strips every 6" over joists.

I don't really feel like hauling 10 sheets of 1/2" plywood across lake and up the stairs to the cabin. and of course installation on ceiling would be a pain as well.

I had also finished the trim around the top of the walls already, so covering a 1/2" of that would look a little off.

Furring strips seem like an inferior option and would lose the space as well...

I thought of a 3rd installation method that doesn't lose any ceiling space.

I would install 2X4s in between in the current joists. This means I'll have every 8" on center for the tiles. I would use 12' 2X4's so I could support right on the top plate of the load bearing middle wall. See photo below- Red in photo would be the 2X4's I would insert. I would block them horizontally as well against the existing joists.

This would force my nails to be every 8" instead of 6" on the tile perimeter- which is the only problem I'd see... That and possibly some waviness from the joists & 2X4's not being perfectly flush...ostensibly plywood would help smooth that out.

Whaddya think? Is option 3 a good option? Or do I need to bite the bullet with plywood.

AF6D8C85FF8849338.jpeg

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Kitchen_w_2x4.png

kitcheninside.png

pabear89
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# Posted: 7 Jun 2023 12:12pm - Edited by: pabear89
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For ease of installing the tin work, I would do the work hauling up plywood for the ceiling base. no worries on where your going to be nailing the tin up.

p.s. You could use 1/4 in plywood for lighter weight to carry up to cabin.

ICC
Member

# Posted: 7 Jun 2023 03:03pm
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I would be concerned with the alignment of the unsupported edgesb during and after installation.

Not sure if 1/4" would be a good base to nail to.

Grizzlyman
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# Posted: 7 Jun 2023 10:32pm
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ICC

Was thinking the same thing about the edgesâ€¦. But also wonder that if furring strips work- I think this would be the same thing. Only difference would be 4 nails on the unsupported side vs 5. Never worked with it so I donâ€™t know.

ICC
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# Posted: 7 Jun 2023 11:01pm
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Quoting: Grizzlyman

Never worked with it

Same here....

Brettny
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# Posted: 8 Jun 2023 06:09am
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Dont they make stick up pannels like this? I believe there used as kitchen back splashes alot. Some are plastic I believe but you wouldnt know looking at them.

Grizzlyman
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# Posted: 8 Jun 2023 07:34am
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I believe the stick up are plasticâ€¦ but that would definitely require plywood or maybe drywallâ€¦ a sheet of some sort.

gcrank1
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# Posted: 8 Jun 2023 07:57am
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Think they might work well (and be far cheaper than the stamped metal) on 1/4" luan underlayment up top.

Cedar Fever
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# Posted: 8 Jun 2023 01:39pm
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This is a cool idea for a cabin.

Grizzlyman
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# Posted: 30 Mar 2025 01:56pm - Edited by: Grizzlyman
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Hey all. Been a while since this thread but I’m moving forward with this. Covering the kitchen and bedroom ceiling with copper tin. I was concerned about giving mice a place to live in the ceiling with a concealed space but we have had very little mouse activity in 4-5 years of having the cabin- so not too concerned.

I’m going to go the plywood/osb route- probably osb. Should make the tin that much easier to install. Not Generally a fan of osb but for this it should be good. 3/8 would be ideal but I don’t believe that’s a thing they make- probably have to be 1/2 (or 7/16 I guess).

I’ll post some progress as it’s getting done. We still have 2-3 weeks until ice-out before the cabin is accessible. This will be my project 1st thing this spring.

See picture- do you think it would make sense to wrap the ceiling tin to the front of the loft floor joists as well? As you can see that’s just an exposed joist which will look out of place once the ceiling is in place. The other option would be just to paint it white to match the wall.

And also do you think the crown molding should be added? Right now I have a board/batten on the walls so the 1/2” from the osb will partially obscure the horizontal top batten as is. The other option is to take the top horizontal top Batten off, cut the verticals battens shorter in place with Probably an oscillating tool and then put the horizontal piece back in. That will be tough to get tight gaps between the horizontal and vertical pieces. But if using crown moulding I will have to cut the vertical battens either way to get it snug to the wall- that might look a little odd with the 3/8” thick vertical battens butted up to the horizontal crown molding.

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Brettny
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# Posted: 31 Mar 2025 07:07am
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A few years ago I was attaching vinyl siding to 7/16 OSB and not trying to hit the studs with the roof nails. A few pieces later I had to remove one and could pull it out with my fingers. So I'm not sure if OSB is the correct backing for something like your putting up if your not going to hit studs or glue it down.

Grizzlyman
Member

# Posted: 31 Mar 2025 11:13am - Edited by: Grizzlyman
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Brettny
Good call.

Actually after doing some more research since I posted this I think I settled on 3/8 plywood. Should save some weight carrying up the bluff and should be much easier to get nails going with a thin trim nail - I think Plywood will be easier to nail into.