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jjmay77
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# Posted: 19 May 2023 09:50pm
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The siding is the pre primed/coated t1-11 type. Yes the soffits are wood. It has actually held up really well but I do need some aluminum fascia. the cabin is actually built by a Mennonite. He used dimensional lumber and modern materials etc. He also had an F250. So not really Amish built.
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gcrank1
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# Posted: 20 May 2023 08:56am
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Pretty nice  , well worth tuning up a bit. Wish my 'hack built' 16x24 was 1/2 as good.
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spencerin
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# Posted: 20 May 2023 07:21pm - Edited by: spencerin
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I got the impression that you were worried about mice getting into the roof. I don't think you have to worry about that at all as their vision is bad - they can't see far or clear at all. They won't see an entry point in your roof from 8'+ away; they're going to focus on what's at ground-level instead.
I had an Amish crew build my cabin, too, and they didn't put closure strips in, either. I expected they would've known to, so I didn't think to ask them to. If you really wanted to close those gaps off, you could use expanding foam spray insulation. I left mine alone, decided having some air flow was better than none, plus if a leak started dripping onto the bubble underlayment, it would run downhill and trickle out, whereas blocking the gaps would keep the water in.....
Finally, there are varying degrees of mechanical/technological adaption by the Amish, and it varies by community. But, a common approach for them is that if the machine/technology furthers their trade, it's fine, but it won't be adopted in domestic life. So, it's not uncommon to see some use trucks and power tools on the job. But, there are still some communities that forgo it altogether, and some that use it just about as much as the rest of us do.
BTW, that's a nice small cabin shell they built for you.....
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snobdds
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# Posted: 24 May 2023 12:58pm
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I have 2x10 rafters. I put a 2x2 along each side of the rafter. Then I drilled two 1 inch holes at the top of each rafter bay and put HD wire cloth over the holes. Then I put 2 inch foam in the rafter under the 2x2 spacers to create a channel from soffit to ridge. Then under the foam I put in some prodex that is stapled into the side of the rafter to make a 3 sided box.
I know it works because heat dosen't melt the snow on the roof.
That is the only way I know to vent a cathedral ceiling.
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gcrank1
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# Posted: 24 May 2023 08:27pm - Edited by: gcrank1
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And your soffit is?
I looked up Prodex, the Nebraska Energy Quarterly doesnt think much of it. Idk, Im inclined to stack rigid styro into a space.
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snobdds
Member
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# Posted: 25 May 2023 11:42am - Edited by: snobdds
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Soffit is vented.
Well if your buying prodex for insulation, that's silly.
It is however, a good radiant, vapor, and reflective barrier. It's being used as a substitute to trying to vapor seal rigid foam against rafters. I'm not into the long snakes of canned foam that sit on top of stuff with no viscosity to do any real sealing into small cracks.
Prodex makes it look like a professional did the job, not some DIYer that got let loose with boxes the great stuff foam.
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jjmay77
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# Posted: 30 May 2023 01:20pm
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The eaves and siding are the coated t1-11 type stuff. Its actually held up pretty well. I do need to get some fascia up however.
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jjmay77
Member
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# Posted: 7 Jun 2023 01:57pm
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jjmay77
Quoting: spencerin n Amish crew build my cabin, too, and they didn't put closure strips in, either. I expected they would've known to, so I didn't think to ask them to. If you really wanted to close those gaps off, you could use expanding foam spray insulation. I left mine alone, decided having some air flow was better than none, plus if a leak started dripping onto the bubble underlayment, it would run downhill and tri
Thanks. This is interesting about the mice not seeing the openings that high up. Yes I would like to keep airflow if possible through the metal roof. I found a crack on the patio that I am going to repair. I also plan to turn on my work lights inside at night and walk around looking for light.
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