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hydrazine
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# Posted: 9 Mar 2023 12:34am - Edited by: hydrazine
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EDIT: Can't figure out how to delete, but disregard post. The issue I was having was to do with not understanding that the edge studs of the wall are measured 16" from the end, not the center if that makes sense.
New to construction and the forum.
Planning to build a small cabin on my property and playing around with building it in sketchup. I was sketching out the framing for a 20' x 12' cabin and when drawing the stud framing, 2 of the studs were not exactly 16" on center. So I'm wondering if you modify the dimensions such that your wall studs are all 16" on center? So instead of a 20' wall it would be 20' 1.5"?
Basically, do you adjust your exterior dimensions such that your studs are all 16" on center. Or do you deal with having 2 of the studs being slightly off 16" on center? What is most commonly done?
Thanks!
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Tim_Ohio
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# Posted: 9 Mar 2023 09:49am - Edited by: Tim_Ohio
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I think the approach most people take is to set studs 16 inches on center so that 4'/8' sheet goods fall on center of the stud from where they are started. So, if a wall was 8' long, a 4x8 would start at the end of the wall and the other end of the sheet would fall on center with the stud either 4 or 8 ft from the start point whether oriented horizontally or vertically. The studs would then be on center 16" in between. End or corner walls often have the first exterior sheathing vertical to strengthen the corner from wind shear.
Then, I think it is desirable for strength to stare a full sheet horizontally either on the top or bottom. The piece above or below that first horizontal sheet is then a half sheet to set a seam in the middle of the 8'ft piece above or below. Then, of course, all of the sheets beyond are added having alternating seams.
The inside is not as critical, since it is finish/cosmetic. The outside is the structural construction.
Others may be able to explain better.
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gcrank1
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# Posted: 9 Mar 2023 10:12am
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You might take a stop at a place that sells pre-built structures and study out how the studding is done inside one of similar size.
Take phone pics for future ref if you can.
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ICC
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# Posted: 9 Mar 2023 03:21pm - Edited by: ICC
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Quoting: hydrazine EDIT: Can't figure out how to delete, but disregard post. The issue I was having was to do with not understanding that the edge studs of the wall are measured 16" from the end, not the center if that makes sense.
Yes, if the tape measure is hooked over the edge of the wall corner then it is easy to mark the 16" Centers down the wall and the panels will all fit nicely.
It is actually easiest if one thinks ahead and cut the top and bottom plates first and marks the stud positions on the upper/lower pair. I would actually not mark the stud centers but would mark the edges of where the studs were to be located. But that is just me. Some of the other guys would just mark the left edge (looking at the plates as if outside the bldg.)
Then, I think it is desirable for strength to stare a full sheet horizontally either on the top or bottom.
That is not really desirable nor a common method of installing structural sheathing. (Interior drywall sheets sometimes are placed horizontally.**) If we were just dealing with a single sheet of material and measuring whether or not it resists lateral horizontal force then yes, a horizontal sheet would be stronger than a vertical sheet. But we are building a wall assembly and all the components work together.
Structural wall sheathing panels installed horizontally could be done, but then Horizontal blocking would need to be installed between the studs where the horizontal edges of the upper and lower sheets are adjacent to each other. Unnailed panel edges weaken the structural strength and are a guaranteed red tag if there was any framing inspection.
The design strength of structural panels will not be achieved unless all edges of the panels are nailed according to the nail sizes and spacing in IRC Table 602.3(1). If the panels are installed vertically as is the norm and nailed accordingly the wall will be strong and be easier to insulate if using batts as well as having less heat loss through all those extra blocking pieces.
** In a 1 or 2 family residential structure the drywall guys will often use 4 x 12 sheets horizontally. But in a commercial bldg fire code stipulates all drywall sheets must fall over framing members.
Google "California corner" to see a method of corner stud layout that provides a corner that is easier to insulate than some methods.
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Brettny
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# Posted: 9 Mar 2023 07:04pm
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If the tape is hooked on the edge of your top/bottom plate you would be marking stud centers. If you wanted to mark stud edges you would mark 3/4 in short of the 16in CL mark. You can start to add complexity when you have large windows openings or go to drywall things.
For drywall I generaly want to cut off the beveled in the corner anyway. So you would be cutting 3.5in off the edge of a new sheet stood vertically. If your running sheets horizontal get them the length of the room/ceiling.
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 10 Mar 2023 07:55am
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Mark stud centers, much easier. Another important factor, pull all measurements from one corner, ne is the north south walls or the east west walls. This ensures all studs on opposing walls will be aligned with each other. Same would apply if you have any interior load bearing walls too.
So in the end, all walls on the north and south walls, studs are perfectly aligned with each other and all studs on east and west wall are aligned. Critical for rafter or truss placement, they will land on a stud vs in between studs.
One bottom plate, 2 top plates, make sure the second plate will lock the corners from overlapping.
Try to avoid breaks in top and bottom plate, ie use longer boards.
Make sure you use "studs" on your walls, to end up with a 8 foot wall, these are 92 5/8 inches long. If you use 8 foot 2X4's, wall will be too long for exterior sheating and you have to add ugly Z flashing. For good shear wall, its nice to have sheeting hook to bottom and top plate with no breaks. If you are on top of a rim joist and floor joist floor, order 9ft for wall sheeting to overlap and carry down over the rim joist and a few inches over concrete stemwall.
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 10 Mar 2023 07:59am - Edited by: toyota_mdt_tech
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Quoting: Brettny For drywall I generaly want to cut off the beveled in the corner anyway. So you would be cutting 3.5in off the edge of a new sheet stood vertically. If your running sheets horizontal get them the length of the room/ceiling.
Brett, for drywall, I love using the 12 foot stuff going horizontally. Lower sheet first, so easy to roto zip outlet boxes out (tip top out and look) and then mark studs on lower sheet for next 12 footer on top sheet. Cut out switches then or set switches so box top is even with top of lower panel. Beveled edge is in the middle, no vertical seams or fewer. Rotozip out any window openings or doors after sheeting is up using the flush trim bit.
I use 8 footers for ceilings is all now.
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Brettny
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# Posted: 11 Mar 2023 08:59am
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I have put 16' drywall on a 11' tall ceiling. A lift makes it prety easy.
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