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AJC
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# Posted: 16 Feb 2023 07:15am
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Has anyone added soffit venting to an Old Hickory Building? There is very little overhang, which is basically a 2x4 secured against rafter ends. There must be a solution. Ridge venting can be added easily.
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Tim_Ohio
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# Posted: 16 Feb 2023 09:23am - Edited by: Tim_Ohio
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You might get enough room by removing the 2x4 and replacing it with a 1x. Then, drilling holes to vent.
Cover the openings in any creative way you want.
I've stuffed stainless steel scouring pads in holes.
In your case, I'm imagining you could do the same, then protect the openings from rain by covering them with metal fascia, but maybe keeping it from hugging the face of the 1x fascia board by securing something behind the metal fascia that keeps the bottom edge away by a 1/2 inch or so. In other words, tuck or fit the metal fascia up under the drip edge (hopefully you have this) and secure it with nails at the top or just under the bottom edge of the drip edge. Then, allow the bottom to stick out away from the fascia board, maybe forcing it to that position with some cedar shims (cut to length). The thick edge of the shim to the bottom and maybe nail into each shim through the metal or vinyl fascia.
I dunno, it's just an idea.
Tim
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Tim_Ohio
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# Posted: 16 Feb 2023 09:28am
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I forgot to ask if it's a gable or gambrel style of roof. I guess I assumed it was gable.
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AJC
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# Posted: 16 Feb 2023 09:36am
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It's a gable style roof, with ~4/12 pitch. I could modify the fascia board and the 2x4 directly behind it, but would have to lift/remove the drip edge and metal roofing. I'm planning to install gutters, so will not have access to the fascia area.
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Tim_Ohio
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# Posted: 16 Feb 2023 09:56am
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I'd think you could leave the bottom edge of the gutter tilt away from the building a half inch and not have any problem. Once the roof heats up, the convection current will draw the air in through the space. If each bay of the joists are opened up with a couple of holes, there should be a lot of air flow. I'd think the shims would work well to keep the fascia and the gutter set out. I dunno, it's just an idea.
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AJC
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# Posted: 16 Feb 2023 10:32am
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That may be a good option!
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Brettny
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# Posted: 16 Feb 2023 11:59am
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You typicaly dont put vents in facia. You put them in the sofit...so the gutter wouldnt block them.
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AJC
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# Posted: 16 Feb 2023 12:32pm
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Yes. Correct. I realize that. There isn't any overhang, so I'm looking for alternatives. If the gutter is spaced out, there would be room for air movement.
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ICC
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# Posted: 16 Feb 2023 02:30pm - Edited by: ICC
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If you have not yet done anything like insulating on the inside, and if the metal roofing is the basic pro-panel type panels fastened to the sheathing with readily accessible screws, there is another solution. Do a search for "hot roof".
Basically, the metal is removed and saved. Foam insulation sheets are applied to the existing sheathing. It is okay to leave the roofing felt or whatever. At least two layers should be used with the seams staggered to make for the best airsealing. Then an upper layer of sheathing is installed. Long screws through the upper-sheathing/insulation/ lower-sheathing sandwich secure everything to the existing rafters/trusses. The metal is then re-installed. That is the short version of what it is, how it's put together. There are other details.
Such a non-vented roof is only possible when there is sufficient insulation to keep the inside surface of the roof warm enough to prevent moisture condensing. The hot roof assembly also must be air tight. There are tables or charts available with recommendations for different climate zones.
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AJC
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# Posted: 17 Feb 2023 06:22am
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I had looked into this method. It is doable, but more expensive.
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Brettny
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# Posted: 17 Feb 2023 10:23am
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Quoting: AJC but more expensive
Anything with limited space involving insulation is. Where you going to use batt insulation with baffles in 2x4 rafters?
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AJC
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# Posted: 17 Feb 2023 12:32pm
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It will have 2x6 rafters. So baffles and rockwool. Just need to find a way for soffit ventilation.
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Steve_S
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# Posted: 17 Feb 2023 01:04pm
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@AJC
Is this a New Build or Retrofit ?
IF New is it a PreBuilt building ?
OR are you building from Scratch or a Kit ?
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What is the intended use?
Full Time or Part Time use ?
Residential / Habitable ?
What is YOUR Location (Nearest city & state/prov) ? As this will affect the advice & suggestions provided to suit your locale.
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There are different ways to accomplish this and depending on your geographical location some may be better than other methods.
There are also methods that can seriously cut Heating & Cooling loads on the building saving you a pile of money over time and increasing the comfort level of the structure. A Fresh Build allows for one to build in Passive Technologies that can offset the heating & cooling as well as the operational energy requirements making the home more independent and easier to manage during difficult times.
I designed & built my home using passive tech and a hard view with efficiency in mind to get the operational costs really low while maximizing my comfort. I made use of a Cool Roof System coupled with a Rainscreen Siding Installation that provides passive convective airflow around the structure & a great Thermal Break between the exterior environment and the building envelope that prevents heat gain/loss.
1 Example: It hits 104F/40C outside the house NEVER get's warmer than 26C/78F inside and that is with the doors & windows open and NO AC (gave it away). In Winter when it is -30C/-22F outside, my Radiant Heating system runs 3X a day for about 1.5 hrs each time to maintain 26C/78F inside. When it is warmer than -20C/-4F the heating system runs only 2X in 24 hours.
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AJC
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# Posted: 21 Feb 2023 05:42am
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This is a prebuilt building. Part-time seasonal use. It will be a cabin basically. Solar power, therefore limited power. Eastern Canada
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