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GoneCountry
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# Posted: 9 Feb 2023 12:00am - Edited by: GoneCountry
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Hello everyone. We have a D-log cabin near the lake with lots of sheetrock inside so we are wanting to add knotty pine tongue and groove paneling to the inside, mainly the living room and staircase/loft. We purchased the wood and noticed it is white and not finished. I expected it to be pre-finished. My big question is what does everyone do to finish it? Just clearcoat it? I just want it to look more yellow than white. It always seems to look the same in every cabin I've been in so there must be a norm. We stayed in one in Gatlinburg TN and it had the look we want. I have attached a pic of the inside. Let me know if you have an idea of how it's finished. Thanks in advance.
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Steve_S
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# Posted: 9 Feb 2023 08:38am
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Pine will get a depth of colour as it ages and whether it is exposed to UV or not will impact that. Red Pine will often darken somewhat while White Pine will show its grain more.
My suggestion is to use a Water Based Polyurethane (semi-gloss) with a mild colour in it. Prep all the boards BEFORE installation and do at least 3 coats with light sanding between. Poly is best because you can recoat/touch up easily and you can even paint over ti without issues. Shellac is great BUT problematic for touch ups or for painting at a later date.
The Minwax product line offers many options and it's all quite good & easy to work with.
NOTE (lessons learned)
Always use a Poly with a UV Guard / Protectant in it. Even if you think a spot / area will not be UV Affected you'll be surprised to discover later that UV get's everywhere.
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Fanman
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# Posted: 9 Feb 2023 10:05am
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Quoting: Steve_S Poly is best because you can recoat/touch up easily and you can even paint over ti without issues. Shellac is great BUT problematic for touch ups or for painting at a later date.
????
Just the opposite in my experience. To touch up poly you have to sand to provide a mechanical bond for the new coat, and then carefully feather it. Shellac melts into the base layers to form a chemical bond and is mostly self leveling.
If you ever want to topcoat it with something else, ypu do need to use dewaxed shellac, sometimes called "sanding sealer".
Also if you buy shellac flakes instead of premixed ypy can get many different shades, from clear to dark amber. Premixed stuff usually only comes in clear and amber (orangeish).
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gcrank1
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# Posted: 9 Feb 2023 10:31am
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If you like the classic deep yellow to orangish of old cabins and lodges keep in mind that the darker it is the more the interior will be darkened.
The flip side is the much lighter Japanese and Scandinavian contemporary style.
Ive had the gambit....
Plain t&g left as is, it slowly yellowed over time and pictures left in place needed to be in place because of the pale square beneath. Hard to wash too, stuff sticks.
Old spar varnish nicely ages and can be washed lightly.
Newer (lol), post the pre-voc reformulations, dont age the same but are easier to apply and dont have the health issues.
Shellac really gives the color, is traditional, doesnt have the surface protection as well as the 'new' varnishes, and is a bit of an art to mix (as Fanman says) for color touchups. Even so, it looks great if you like that 'honey depth'. I have shellac on my living room trim at home.
Consider using pine as trim and accent on the drywall. The contrast really makes a difference and light colored paint colors on the exposed drywall makes for a much brighter interior space.
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GoneCountry
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# Posted: 9 Feb 2023 12:12pm
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Thanks for all the info guys...but does anyone know an idea of what finish the walls have in the picture I attached?
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Cedar Fever
Member
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# Posted: 9 Feb 2023 12:46pm
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I am looking at mixing stain into poly to seal mine now that they are installed.
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gcrank1
Member
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# Posted: 9 Feb 2023 12:52pm - Edited by: gcrank1
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It is really impossible to tell from a pic.
The light, the aging, the way diff eyes perceive color, etc.....
Minwax, as an example, has a plethora of stain finishes and a color chart that you can take to compare the chart 'chips' with whachagot. Even then, ime, they dont match; could be my perception? But it is the best ya can do to try a match in an expedient way.
My experience anyway, ymmv
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KinAlberta
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# Posted: 9 Feb 2023 02:48pm - Edited by: KinAlberta
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The old varnishes (spar?) will turn it that “classic†amber (orange-yellow) colour. Our cabins have that in them and it really limits the colour choices for tiles, stacking stone features, flooring, etc.
Go to Pinterest and search Knotty Pine and you’ll see a few great examples of interior decorating. And a whole lot of less than desirable decor.
For example search for:
Judy Cook knotty pine
Jasper Park Lodge also used a darker finish in some of its cabins. One I like is actually quite orangey:
https://www.canadianaffair.com/images/canada/alberta/jasper/JAS004/fairmont-jasper-pa rk-lodge/gall-e/max/hi-jpl-24428578-jpl-v-444.jpg
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Fanman
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# Posted: 9 Feb 2023 03:26pm
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Quoting: GoneCountry Thanks for all the info guys...but does anyone know an idea of what finish the walls have in the picture I attached?
As gcrank1 said it's hard to tell from a picture but from the color and the luster I'm going to guess several coats of clear shellac.
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ICC
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# Posted: 9 Feb 2023 03:29pm
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If you are unfamiliar with the differences between oil and water-based "clear" finishes I recommend that you buy a small can of each and try them out on a piece of the wood to be used. Oil-based finishes, the ones you need to use mineral spirits or something out of a can to clean your brushes, always have some level of amber/yellow coloration. Water-based are milky white in the can but dry absolutely clear with no color cast. Some people love the amber/yellow cast, others do not. Spend some money and make a sample or two before committing to the entire wall.
To me, the wood in the picture does not appear to be stained. I am leaning in the direction of thinking it may have been a water-based clear coat rather than oil-based. Just a guess, a feeling.
Personally, I prefer unstained but clear coated finishes for things like walls and staircases. I usually reserve staining for furniture and small movable objects. Generally, for walls and such I prefer lighter tones and that suits most woods fine for me.
If there is any color cast to the finish that will get more pronounced as additional coats are applied.
Oil-based clear finishes will darken with exposure to UV unless there are UV inhibitors present. Even then there is no 100% guarantee that there will be no color change over time. Water-based finishes are my favorite; easier to clean up with just warm soapy water and the finish does not darken with time. The wood under the clearcoat will likely still darken, most woods do darken with exposure to UV and to the oxygen in the air. Most clearcoats rated for interior use do not have UV inhibitors in them. Some exterior clearcoats do but not all.
I can't recall the last time we used an oil-based finish coat for anything other than actual staining. For some assorted, maybe personal reasons I do not like water-based stains. I also have not been happy with finishes that combine the color stain with polyurethane. If you are thinking of using one I would advise a trial first.
I also don't see any advantage to using shellac on most things. The alcohol solvent is not cheap and when applied on large surfaces there are a lot of volatile components that have to evaporate to dry and they end up being inhaled by the applicator. To me, that is another good point about water-based finishes of all kinds.
Mistakes with clearcoats and stains can often only be remedied with painting over.
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Fanman
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# Posted: 9 Feb 2023 03:43pm
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Quoting: Cedar Fever I am looking at mixing stain into poly to seal mine now that they are installed.
Olympic, Minwax, and Varathane (my preference) all make polyurethane mixed with stain. We did the beaded plywood walls of our first cabin with it, but it's not fun (for me) to work with. For our current cabin I used a Cabot transparent exterior stain, which came out really nice. For sake of comparison, the small dresser in this picture was done in Zinser amber shellac.
But for pine I'd personally choose a clear finish as cabins tend to be dark. Here I was trying to match the original chestnut roof and beams (not in this room, which I added later)
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Fanman
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# Posted: 9 Feb 2023 03:50pm - Edited by: Fanman
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But for some things, poly really makes sense. This is our dishwasher installation, oak plywood and mountain laurel with 3 coats of Varathane stain-poly, and 3 more coats of clear Varathane on the countertop. Beyond is the shiplap pine bathroom door and more of the beadboard, both with the exterior stain.
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Aklogcabin
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# Posted: 10 Feb 2023 07:35am
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I'm in the same situation. And have 200 boards and the 3 sided log cabin as we want the inside finished.
I have been a woodworker for years and suggest a waterborne laquer. I prefer Deft brand. Do 1 coat, it will need a quick touch with sand paper. I will use green scotchbrite. Put a second coat on. A 3rd coat would be nice if you have it in your.
For what it's worth. I've used many gallons of different topcoats. Shellac, varnish, laquers and polyurethane.
I will be using Deft waterborne laquer. No stains. But a minwax golden oak would bring out the grain better. I just don't have the energy, but maybe. I'll probably end up staining the 200 boards for the ceiling.
We have a 16x24 log cabin with a full loft so similar to yours. Good luck n have fun
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gcrank1
Member
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# Posted: 10 Feb 2023 10:43am
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I MUST file that info for future reference! 
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Fanman
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# Posted: 10 Feb 2023 11:39am
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For tables that might see occasional alcohol spills, I use several coats of dewaxed shellac to fill the grain followed by a couple coats of Deft brushing laquer. Like shellac and unlike poly, solvent based laquer will dissolve into the previous coats. Not sure about the waterborne stuff, though.
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ThisOldCabinNJ
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# Posted: 22 Feb 2023 10:30am
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I am not a fan of Polycryllic (Minwax brands water based polyurethane). I tried using it a few years back for some wood work and I just had the worst time with it. I've used that product before as well as their oil based poly and never seemed to get as good of results as I do with the oil base - this also isn't my first rodeo...i've been doing this stuff for quite some time.
To counter that, I've been a big fan of regular old oil based Polyurethane. The only drawback is 1) it stinks. b) it takes FOREVER to dry. and when you're trying to finish 300+ tongue and groove boards, you need space and something that's quick drying to get the job done in a timely fashion.
Fast forward to today: my cabin which was built circa 1922 is finished in shellac. How do I know? Well several months ago I didnt. So I started by taking some denatured alcohol and brushed it onto a scrap piece of material. The clear finish started to "melt". I knew I had shellac. If yours doesn't melt then move onto another solvent of sorts. Lacquer should melt with lacquer thinner. Polyurethane probably would 'melt' with a more potent solvent.
I then took some scrap pieces of lumber and made up some shellac (I bought a variety of shellac chips from ShellacShack). I was able to determine that my cabin was originally finished with either a ruby or garnet shellac by experimenting. They also used a torch to burn the boards in random places to give it a 'rustic' look. I was able to mimic the original finish with my scrap wood and shellac so I now know how I need to make up any new pieces I need to match.
As mentioned above, a good UV finish should be used. To the best of my memory, shellac does have SOME UV blocking properties but isn't the best. Once shellacked you can always top coat with polyurethane or other clear finishes. Shellac makes a fantastic base for almost any top coat. I've even considered using shellac to get the right color then clearing over with a sprayable lacquer but I haven't gotten to that stage yet.
On a side note, years ago I had purchased some water-borne lacquer (I want to say it was Sherwin Williams "Zenith" conversion varnish lacquer) which I used to spray cabinet doors. I really like the stuff. It is considered water-borne conversion varnish in which the water was only used to 'carry' the medium. Its' not a water BASED product like the aforementioned Polycrylic I so despise. There is a difference. It still cleaned up with water like a water based product.
Hope some of this information was helpful. and I know I don't have to say it but I will because I've learned a lot working in a manufacturing facility: protect your lungs and make sure you wear an appropriate respirator. I was young and stupid once and still occasionally forget or get too lazy for PPE but after working in a factory and watching people get their hands chopped off, eyes injured, or lungs dusted with harsh chemicals, I can not stress enough how important it is to protect yourself - you mess up yourself at home, there ain't no one to blame except yourself and its so easy today. At the bare minimum, make sure you have proper ventilation where ever you're doing this. Ok, end safety rant. Best of luck!
-al
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ICC
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# Posted: 22 Feb 2023 04:49pm
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Quoting: ThisOldCabinNJ not a fan of Polycryllic (Minwax brands water based polyurethane). I tried using it a few years back for some wood work and I just had the worst time with it. I've used that product before as well as their oil-based poly and never seemed to get as good of results as I do with the oil base
If you would like to share, my inquisitive side would like to know what sort of difficulty made for the "worst time".
I too have been using paints, varnishes, etc. for a very long time, both for personal use and as a contractor.
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curious
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# Posted: 23 Feb 2023 12:45pm
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Actually the term water-based is a misnomer. It has become commonly used to describe finishes that can be cleaned up with water (before it dries) and differentiate the finishes which are called oil-based and need mineral spirits or another chemical solvent for cleanup.
A true water-based finish would be able to be washed off with water after it had dried. None of the clear finishes that are called water-based can be simply washed off once dry.
We should be calling the "water-based" finishes waterborne as it is more technically correct. More manufacturers are using waterborne in naming products than used to.
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