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Bradmott3363
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# Posted: 25 Sep 2022 09:58am
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I’ve seen “log builder†is that what I should order or can I use something from a box store ? I’ve heard of chinking , is that what it needs vs caulk ? Thanks !
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Brettny
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# Posted: 25 Sep 2022 10:57am
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I wouldnt use anything sold at a big box store on exterior wood you care about.
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silverwaterlady
Member
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# Posted: 25 Sep 2022 01:50pm
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https://www.permachink.com/products/log-sealants?gclid=EAIaIQobChMImpShjMCw-gIVcQnnCh 2pFwvvEAAYBCAAEgLKF_D_BwE
I suggest you give them a call for advice.
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gcrank1
Member
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# Posted: 25 Sep 2022 01:56pm
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Is that 'log siding'?;ie, milled to look like log but nailed up to studs.
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Brettny
Member
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# Posted: 25 Sep 2022 05:33pm
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I would say its log siding. Either way it's got some major weather damage and cracking.
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gcrank1
Member
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# Posted: 25 Sep 2022 05:47pm
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If it is, maybe remove it and put the top, less weathered/rough half on the bottom, the less good on the top.
If any needs to just be replaced use the new on the very bottom with the most exposure?
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spencerin
Member
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# Posted: 25 Sep 2022 08:22pm - Edited by: spencerin
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D-log siding is what it's called. Yep, Permachink makes good stuff for all things log. Those logs may be weathered and cracked, but as long as they're not rotted, they can have life added back to them with plenty of stain and sealant along the seams.
Since the seams are small, you'll want to use caulk, not chinking. Chinking is generally used for large gaps.
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FishHog
Member
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# Posted: 26 Sep 2022 09:04am
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Big stretch would be my choice but I’d be treating the wood first
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Aklogcabin
Member
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# Posted: 26 Sep 2022 09:27am
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They look like 3 sided logs to me. And in pretty good shape.
A wash with a pressure washer should clean them to looking like new.
I've been researching permachink brand chinking. They recommend a 3/8" gap. I would use chinking material between the logs after a pressure wash. And suspect it should look pretty good.
For a topcoat I would probably use an oil based product.
Not sure why folks would say don't buy the product from Home Dopot or Lowes. They sell the same products as other stores.
Minwax stain or Milwaukee tools are the same. But generally have a better price or selection.
Hey good luck n have fun
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silverwaterlady
Member
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# Posted: 26 Sep 2022 10:44am - Edited by: silverwaterlady
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Because the stuff at those stores is not up to the standards of PermaChink.
Used exclusively on our log cabin.
We Used a pressure washer once on our cabin. Before we put our floors down. There is a special nozzle you need.
If you have finished floors inside I would not use one. There will be water penetration.
Certain areas of our cabin had more. I was inside with a lot of towels and a bucket. While my husband was outside using the washer. Had I not been inside, we would have had a flooded cabin.
Once again, I cannot stress enough for you to call PermaChink. They are log professionals.
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gcrank1
Member
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# Posted: 26 Sep 2022 11:18am
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As are 'Log Cabin Doctors', a local to me family business (not mine) in south-central WI
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ICC
Member
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# Posted: 26 Sep 2022 02:48pm - Edited by: ICC
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The wall is boards, not logs.
The first image below is what I snipped out of the posted image. In my 2nd image the red rectangle is the part cut out and enlarged to be the 1st image.
I believe only a board would warp out of place like that. There appears to be a large gap between boards that are nailed over something. To me that appears to be too wide a gap to be caulked without buy a truckload of caulking tubes. I know what I would most likely do.
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spencerin
Member
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# Posted: 26 Sep 2022 03:36pm
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Yes, it's d-log siding. Very common. Round on the outside to look like log, flat on the inside to affix to flat surfaces.
Thanks for the closer look. Most d-log siding is t&g, so usually caulking is fine, but either yours isn't, or it's shrunk enough to create gaps. Now looks like chinking is the way to go.
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gcrank1
Member
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# Posted: 26 Sep 2022 08:48pm
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If you open up a bit of it you can get an idea of how it is built underneath.
Mine is not dissimilar, but rough cut, random width sawmill boards. My current preference is to pull off a section at a time, re-do the sheathing beneath, possibly rigid foam insulation, a barrier fabric and using the 'rainwall' concept with a 3/4" air space back side of the siding to avoid just such failure again.
Check out 'rainwall'.
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ICC
Member
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# Posted: 26 Sep 2022 08:53pm
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Aklogcabin
Member
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# Posted: 27 Sep 2022 11:29am
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I have been reading permachinks information on their website. They wrote that permachink words best with gaps of 3/8" . They make foam for backing for larger cracks.
I've pressure washed a bunch of wood, couple houses. Just used the spray nozzle that it came with. About a 4-6" pattern. I've not had any problems. And the cracks between the boards look small. Don't spray directly into the cracks. Be careful
If its siding. That style is usually TnG. So maybe why no visable nail holes. Permachink would work well. There are quite a few products out there. I will probably be using permachink on our new home n our cabin.
Still curious, so companies make 2 different grades of their products. One for big box stores and a different product for other stores ? I thought name brand is the same. In Alaska we don't have very many choices. Mostly none. And the prices for the same product are usually fairly less. I do support the little guys when I can and shop locally. But these stores still employ my neighbors. Many of which are retired from working in the construction industry, It's tough work. And they keep their lumber inside dry. The other lumber stores all leave their lumber to get soaked out with no coverage. So my choices are limited. And I like to use the best I can get.
Back to the subject. It's wood. A good cleaning, some folks use a bleach water mix n spray it on wait 10 minutes then wash. Even a garden hose works OK. There are products available just for spray cleaning wood.
I believe a good topcoat with a light colored stain in it would really make that wood look nice.
Good luck n stay safe
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