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mark11
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# Posted: 19 Aug 2022 08:29am - Edited by: mark11
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Im building a new cabin with log kit and im getting close to stain and caulking.
For the log splits: Do I caulk the splits first then stain over the caulk or vice versa ?
1st coat will be base clear
2nd coat stain
3rd coat stain
Thanks
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Brettny
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# Posted: 19 Aug 2022 09:04am
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What do the cawlk or stain manufacturers say? What stain requires 3 coats?
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gcrank1
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# Posted: 19 Aug 2022 09:23am - Edited by: gcrank1
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Ime, any treatment applied to the wood before the stain hinders to prevents the stain from absorbing into the fibers.
I question the base clear 1st for that reason too?
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mark11
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# Posted: 19 Aug 2022 09:46am
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So I should caulk after applying the stain ?
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mark11
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# Posted: 19 Aug 2022 09:47am
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Pre stain coat manufacturer said strengthens the glue that binds the wood cells together, called lignin, preventing yellowing of the underlying wood cells to help you maintain a consistent color year after year. Before staining, base coat evens out wood porosity, creating a smoother surface for stain application and preventing over-absorption and a too-dark color. After staining, the lignin stabilizers prevent the wood underneath from getting sunburned, leaving the stain applied on top looking the same year after year.
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gcrank1
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# Posted: 19 Aug 2022 02:37pm
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Ive used stains that get down into the wood and some so called stains, that have a lot of pigment; ie, solid color 'stain', that pretty much sit on top like paint.
Guess which one lasts longer?
Ive had better luck color patching (caulking should be similar) on top of final color.
Also, when caulking starts to fail and flake/pull off what are you going to see beneath if you stained over the caulk?
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ICC
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# Posted: 19 Aug 2022 03:07pm
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Quoting: mark11 For the log splits: Do I caulk the splits first then stain over the caulk or vice versa ?
What does the log kit maker say about the splits? And how deep are they?
There are no caulks I know of that absorb stain or paint. So applying caulk first should be a no-no.
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MJH
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# Posted: 19 Aug 2022 06:58pm
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I just went through this in early July on my place. Based on A LOT of reading (mostly instructions on stain) and a few conversations with the log cabin supply place I come to believe the following:
1. Ideally you stain first, chink/caulk later.
2. If you're in a situation where you have to stain second, it's not terrible... but you have to figure out what to do with the chinking/caulking (either mask it, wipe it off, or leave the stain on) and that can be a bit more work.
We ended up staining first. Since the stain required a few weeks to "cure" we'll start the chinking next week.
As an aside, don't sweat it too much. You're going to be staining your place a lot more than caulking/chinking so you'll have to learn how to deal with it at some point anyway.
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spencerin
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# Posted: 19 Aug 2022 10:27pm
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What do you mean by "splits"? The vertical seams where one log butts up against another, or the horizontal seams between the rows of logs? Regardless, I agree that the caulking should be done after the staining.
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Brettny
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# Posted: 20 Aug 2022 06:53am
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Quoting: gcrank1 Ive used stains that get down into the wood and some so called stains, that have a lot of pigment; ie, solid color 'stain', that pretty much sit on top like paint. Guess which one lasts longe
This was exactly why I asked about 3 coats. If you can even get the wood to soak up more than 2 it will soak up water and wet wood rots.
I would really make sure your getting a good quality stain with some kind of UV protection. Typicaly I look towards the log home stains. Far to many people apply "stains" to there deck every 2 yrs and think it's a good product. This is why thompsons water seal is still in business.
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gcrank1
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# Posted: 20 Aug 2022 11:18am
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And, fwiw, the 'old Thompson's' formulation was imo a better product. Bet someone will disagree with my 2c. Think I saw a diy version online of the old recipe.
That aside....
Maybe 12yrs ago we paid good money for a Behr brand deck stain.
It didnt hold up any better than some bargain stuff 
I love wood, just hate the work to protect it.
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ICC
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# Posted: 20 Aug 2022 12:10pm
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Quoting: gcrank1 the 'old Thompson's' formulation was imo a better product.
How far back does one have to go? I used it for the first time in 1985 and thought that was a crappy product. Maybe I am extra happy I have not used it since.
Quoting: gcrank1 I love wood, just hate the work to protect it.
Yep. That is why for a long time now, I do not use wood outdoors unless it is going to be painted. Even with the desert sun, we can get easily get 20+ years if we start with quality paint. I save all my natural or stained finishes for indoor work.
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Brettny
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# Posted: 21 Aug 2022 06:05am
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Quoting: gcrank1 Think I saw a diy version online of the old
Did it involve linseed oil?
Behr is just a big name. To be honest I have got the same life span out of used motor oil stain on a rough cut shed than friends that sanded and used deck over on a deck.
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mark11
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# Posted: 21 Aug 2022 08:57am
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Yes I plan on staining first then caulk.
Did you stain before you put the windows in or after ?
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mark11
Member
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# Posted: 21 Aug 2022 08:59am
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I’m using a pre stain coat uv protection as that what manufacturer said it’s best to do before applying first coat of stain.
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gcrank1
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# Posted: 21 Aug 2022 02:01pm
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So, they recommend it before the stain, and it has UV protection but will then be covered up by the stain pigment.....so how does that do the UV thing?
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ICC
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# Posted: 21 Aug 2022 04:31pm
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Can you tell us the name of the stain product?
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mark11
Member
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# Posted: 22 Aug 2022 10:59am
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Sachco colorfast pre-stain and transformation stain (two coats)
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