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Nobadays
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# Posted: 8 Jul 2022 08:40am
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Sparks and little shards of metal will fly!! Wear protective gear... I wear protective glasses and a face shield!
A diamond blade on a skill saw works pretty good. Your wheel saw my be the ticket.
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Tim_Ohio
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# Posted: 8 Jul 2022 10:21am
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I cut all of mine by using a straight edge and a utility knife to score it, then bend it back and forth. It did take more than one pass of the blade to dig in enough to render a good score. The long sections begin to fatigue at the score mark as you bend it back and forth, and finally just break apart. I used tin snips to cut across the tin (perpendicular to the ribs). It doesn't have to be complicated. Give it a try.
Tim_Ohio
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paulz
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# Posted: 8 Jul 2022 06:56pm
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Got 'er done. The scoring idea sounds good but with 25' panels, folding a 12.5' half back and forth didn't sound too appealing, and still need to cut through the ridges first. I was considering the brutish 2 stroke concrete saw but figured I'd try the easiest way first, and a reversed 7" carbide tip wood blade on a light sidewinder saw worked a treat, even cut through the ridges, surprisingly, without flipping the panels over.
Hopefully get them up on the roof next week. Thanks for the tips guys.
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paulz
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# Posted: 10 Jul 2022 12:52pm
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Along with my Darwin award quest, I have been figuring out my perlin spacing in conjunction with the holes already in the metal. Actually the diamond plate top of the truck bed makes a very stable ladder platform, more so than the 10' ladder on dirt.
Going to be about like this. My question is about the sides, do I run a perlin out to tip of the rafters, and how far do I overhang the metal past the rafters/perlin?
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gcrank1
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# Posted: 10 Jul 2022 03:55pm
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Do you ever get snow loads?
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paulz
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# Posted: 10 Jul 2022 04:04pm
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Nope. A few of the nearby mountain peaks might get an inch or two on a rare occasion. Closest measurable snow would be Lake Tahoe in the Sierras, 200 miles east. I'm on the coast.
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gcrank1
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# Posted: 10 Jul 2022 05:13pm
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We do, yet the prev owner and builder put at least a 12" overhang (probably 18") from the last perlin and there have been no issues in 10 years.
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paulz
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# Posted: 10 Jul 2022 05:28pm
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Funny you mention that.. can't really see in the photo but the rafters only go about 6" beyond the top rails. Total length is 11' per side. The panels I just cut in half are 12.5', and I have been grappling with either extending the rafters for perlins or cutting the panels down to 11'. Or, as you say, maybe they could just hang free that last 18". I'd really like that extra roof coverage.
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ICC
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# Posted: 10 Jul 2022 05:46pm
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With pretty much zero chance of snow the formed ribs in the metal should prevent any drooping I would think. It might look weird with that much overhang but in your location, you could likely get away with it. Now, is a strong wind gust more likely to create an uplift problem?
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paulz
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# Posted: 10 Jul 2022 06:14pm
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Very wind sheltered, but more chance of that than snow. 
The other thing is I might need rain gutter, my driveway passes right next to it. Could screw it to the metal but a gutter full of leaves and rain could get pretty heavy.
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paulz
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# Posted: 10 Jul 2022 09:44pm
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Quoting: ICC It might look weird with that much overhang but in your location, you could likely get away with it.
I was just walking the dog and stood back for a look at it, I think you're right it would look weird with that much overhang, not to mention one side would be overhanging my driveway. What is the usual 6-12"? I could use the existing 6", maybe run the metal 2" longer.
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ICC
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# Posted: 10 Jul 2022 10:08pm
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1 to 1-1/2" of metal overhanging the fascia board is what we aimed for. My preference was 1" overhanging if there were gutters involved.
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paulz
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# Posted: 12 Jul 2022 06:01pm
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Quoting: toyota_mdt_tech Some require a sealant and small stitch screws, these are the short hex headed ones.
Hey TMT, give me an example of the sealant rolls.. My panels do have holes on top of the last ridge for the stich screws, so I'll be doing that.
I have all the perlins done on one slope, my plan is to get the metal up, then I can do the other side from up top instead of on ladders.
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ICC
Member
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# Posted: 12 Jul 2022 07:20pm
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https://www.homedepot.com/p/50-ft-Butyl-Sealant-Tape-Roof-Accessory-in-Gray-99415/205 945574
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paulz
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# Posted: 13 Jul 2022 02:34pm
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Ok thanks. The stuff that is on there is different, white and gooey, looks like it was brushed on. Maybe wasn't something designed for the application.
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 14 Jul 2022 03:50pm
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See ICC link. Sealant tape is used on the gable end flashing.
There is a fascia flashing, this goes on first, help with low profile pan head screws, then felt, then roof panels. After panels on, gable trim, if you go mini gable trim, will espose half of your facis, IMHO, mini gavle looks better. Then your ridge cap. This is just a chunk bent to match your pitch, it screws down on the roofings high spots, these are real short screws with a gasket.
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paulz
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# Posted: 14 Jul 2022 05:34pm
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Thanks TMT.
Well it's time to cut my panels down to finish length, I just can't decide what that is. Hard to see in this photo, but the rafters extend 5" from the outside of the posts. And speaking of the posts, I am holding open the option to put possible put siding on it some day, sort of a pole barn.
I could put up a 1" fascia and cut the panels an inch past, for 7" total overhang. Or I could sister onto the rafters and go for 12" or more overhang. Any value to that, other than a bit more dry ground?
Either way tomorrow morning I'm cutting them..
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gcrank1
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# Posted: 14 Jul 2022 06:32pm
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I dont care for short overhangs, looks odd and 'skimped' to me.
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paulz
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# Posted: 15 Jul 2022 12:05pm
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I think I'll extend them. I based the carport width on the length of the horizontal section of the trusses, 20' exactly, figuring that was what is intended. Don't know why the overhangs are that short.
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Nobadays
Member
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# Posted: 15 Jul 2022 02:54pm
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It sounds like your metal is long enough to provide an extended overhang. You will be glad you did make it longer.... puts the drip edge further from the building and even provides protection for hanging ladders, etc on the side.
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paulz
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# Posted: 15 Jul 2022 05:55pm - Edited by: paulz
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I agree, that's the plan.
Working with recycled materials is a pain. It's satisfying not letting it go to waste but usually takes a bunch of extra time. So my panels have nice equally spaced existing holes for most of their length, which I have matched up to my perlin spacing, however one end have these mess of holes. Left long would give me 24" overhang but I would have to plug or seal the holes. Cut off that part gives me 18" overhang. Here's a test extension showing the 18" length.
20220715_143559.jpg
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20220715_1434431.j.jpg
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paulz
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# Posted: 25 Jul 2022 05:21pm
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So I ended up extending the eves to 16" and cutting the bad holes off the end of the panels. Went ahead and put down roofing felt, mostly just to clean out the shed. Metal goes up tomorrow. I have not nailed down the end trusses yet, not sure how much to overhand the purlins, thinking maybe 2-3 inches.
After this, I don't want to see a ladder for 6 months.
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NorthRick
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# Posted: 25 Jul 2022 07:55pm
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Quoting: paulz figured I'd try the easiest way first, and a reversed 7" carbide tip wood blade on a light sidewinder saw worked a treat, even cut through the ridges, surprisingly, without flipping the panels over.
I tried that once and didn't make too many cuts before 1/3 of the carbide teeth were gone. Ended up using abrasive metal cutting disks in a circular saw. They wear down but only cost a few bucks a piece.
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ICC
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# Posted: 25 Jul 2022 09:20pm
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I believe that using a circular saw is about the worst method of cutting roofing panels. With an abrasive blade the metal will sometimes get hot enough to damage the paint and after a few years rust can be bad.
My favorite is a special-purpose metal nibbler.
My next favorite is a pair of aviation snips, the type of snips with the compound lever action which multiplies the cutting force. Use two; a left and a right cut. Red and green handles. The red handles designate a left cutting snip. Green handles are right cutting, meaning a tight right hand curve cut can be made. With the green snips, the waste comes off the right side of the blade, and with the red, the waste comes off the left side. (There are yellow handled snips which are meant for straight cuts or wide arcing curves.)
We would use two snips together for a straight line cut across a panel. Hold the green ones in the left hand and red ones in the right hand. Cut two lines about an inch apart at the same time. As you cut across the panel the inch-wide portion in between the two snips curls up and out of the way. That also works for angle cuts.
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paulz
Member
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# Posted: 25 Jul 2022 09:57pm - Edited by: paulz
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I cut 108 feet of panel, glad I didn't have to use a nibbler or tin snips! Plus the PBR panels have a tall, sharp edged rib, which the circular cut through in the same pass like it wasn't there.
The carbide tipped blade cut through fast and with ease, I did turn it around about halfway through and it's worn out now. 10 buck blade. No metal burning.
If I had to do it again I'd do the same.
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darz5150
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# Posted: 25 Jul 2022 11:33pm
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Quoting: paulz If I had to do it again I'd do the same.
ðŸ‘
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NorthRick
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# Posted: 26 Jul 2022 03:04pm
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Quoting: ICC I believe that using a circular saw is about the worst method of cutting roofing panels. With an abrasive blade the metal will sometimes get hot enough to damage the paint and after a few years rust can be bad.
I haven't noticed rust to be a problem. Most of the time the cut end ends up underneath the ridge trim.
Quoting: paulz I cut 108 feet of panel, glad I didn't have to use a nibbler or tin snips! Plus the PBR panels have a tall, sharp edged rib, which the circular cut through in the same pass like it wasn't there. The carbide tipped blade cut through fast and with ease, I did turn it around about halfway through and it's worn out now. 10 buck blade. No metal burning.
I'm looking at over 100' of cuts soon too. I might look at getting a diamond blade. More expensive but I'm sure I'll find other projects to use it on.
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paulz
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# Posted: 29 Jul 2022 05:23pm - Edited by: paulz
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Well it's the end of the week, I have all the metal panels in place but ran out of screws. I'm happy though, tired but happy, the end is in sight. I still have to regrade the road and surrounding areas and get some gravel.
Looking online, I see all metal carport kits in my size range (20x36) for $3-5K. Sure would have been a lot less work, but then I would still have all the leftover materials sitting around. Also I figure on bumping into this thing with a truck or tractor at some point, the 6x10 posts should lessen the damage.
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 29 Jul 2022 10:56pm
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Quoting: paulz My question is about the sides, do I run a perlin out to tip of the rafters, and how far do I overhang the metal past the rafters/perlin?
OK, you should of left rater tails. Can you sister a tail onto the existing rafter to extend them? Then maybe 16 or 18" of overhang. Tie the tails together with a fascia board. I'd sister tails on, run them kinda wild, them measure your overhand from each end rafter, snap a chalkline from the front one to the back ones marks, then with a squangle, mark all rafter tails and cut them off. I wouldnt go much more than a few inches past the facia with metal.
Maybe some lookouts on the gable ends for overhang.
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 29 Jul 2022 11:03pm - Edited by: toyota_mdt_tech
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Paulz, I used a carbide blade going across the profile (crosscut) but going lengthwise on my tablesaw, was a 10" blade, I used an electric air nibbler. This is the type that cuts a notch of wide kerf, its a smooth as butter. I got mine from amazon, looks like a drill motor but a nibbler on the end, was 40 bucks.
I also got hand brakes, this is for making folds on panels, a long 12" one and I got a smaller hand operated 4" one, looks like wide duck billed pliers.
Oh, left and ride side offset shears (green and red handles) and the non offset one, ie yellow handles.
Too bad you didnt live closer, I'd loaned ya all my tools.
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