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sabiggs
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# Posted: 3 Jun 2011 09:40pm
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So, our building site is about 300ft from the road, slightly uphill. However, the first 30-40 feet of the driveway is a little wet on the right side. We recently did a little work with trenching further up the driveway that might help a bit. Beyond that initial 30-40 ft., we should be fine.
We want to get the truck to the site to pour the 16 sonotubes, but we're afraid it might get stuck at the beginning of the driveway. We want to do the concrete work 2 or three weeks from now. It has been pretty dry and hot for about 2 weeks now and the forecast for the next 7-10 days is mild but reasonably dry.
My question is: Does anyone have any suggestions for how we can get that truck over the "wet" area and to the site? Right now, our best idea is to buy some 2x10's, lay them out, and have the truck drive over them. We're trying not to mix 100 bags of concrete ourselves, ideally.
Here's a picture below of the describes spot. Since the picture was taken, the right side of the pic has become more soggy/ wet. Thanks for the ideas everyone.
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turkeyhunter
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# Posted: 4 Jun 2011 07:00am
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a lot of loggers, lay heavy timbers in the rut to 'float across" the swamp/mud/muck,they are chained or cabled together.....kinda like a mat. Most call them a swamp mat etc---.a HEAVY CONC. Truck and mud does not mix........plus most will charge you a wrecker bill if it gets stuck on your proerty.
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BlaineHill
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# Posted: 4 Jun 2011 07:55pm
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I am not sure the best way to "bridge" that area, but you can make the most of dry weather by draining all standing water -- either fill in the area or cut a trench to drain it.
Before I had a gravel company put gravel on my driveway, I got caught in a cycle: create a rut in soft ground, then the rut holds water and softens the earth. Drive on it again and you sink more. then it will hold more water. It just gets worse and worse once standing water starts.
Even if you do bridge it with something, the more solid the earth the better.
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caveman
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# Posted: 5 Jun 2011 08:02am
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surge stone, about 3 inch diameter gravel works well. It looks like you will eventually need to gravel the drive anyway and the surge stone makes an excellent base that will last for years. Forest service roads have a lot of wet places bridged this way
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Gary O
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# Posted: 5 Jun 2011 11:00am
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Quoting: caveman surge stone makes an excellent base that will last for years.
Couldn't agree more.
You're gonna have to eventually, and it'll pay huge dividends in the long term.
Just don't get tempted to use river rock (the round stuff), as it'll migrate.
The cut (surge, rip rap) will nest and lock in, lasting forever.
And if you really want to do it right, you'll want to crown the drive.
sabiggs, I know you're anxious to get your foundation going, but if you attend to your drive first, you'll thank yourself 'down the road'.
IMHO...and I'm very willing to discuss further..........
Gary O'
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sabiggs
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# Posted: 5 Jun 2011 12:23pm
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Thanks very much for the suggestions everyone. I appreciate the advice. Yes, I am excited to get things moving, but at the same time, I have the luxury of being able to be flexible with time---I'm a teacher and in two weeks will have the entire summer off and can devote pretty much any day to my cabin build.
I am in agreement that the driveway takes precedence here before the foundation. Surge stone sounds like a pretty good idea.
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Anonymous
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# Posted: 5 Jun 2011 04:25pm
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I hate to say it but if the truck get's stuck and has to be pulled out by a wrecker,it's gonna cost you dearly and if the concrette set's up in the drum while being stuck,,,not good,either.
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PlicketyCat
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# Posted: 12 Jun 2011 05:29am
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My advice... don't. After watching a "slightly muddy" trail swallow a D9 dozer, I wouldn't take the chance. So, I'd say, rent a nice concrete mixer and pour the sono's yourself. We're a mile off the road and we mixed our 8 piers by hand in a wheelbarrow... definitely rent a mixer if you can!!
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 12 Jun 2011 10:21pm - Edited by: toyota_mdt_tech
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Quoting: Anonymous I hate to say it but if the truck get's stuck and has to be pulled out by a wrecker,it's gonna cost you dearly and if the concrette set's up in the drum while being stuck,,,not good,either.
They wont let the concrete set up in a running truck, they will blow it in a pile in your yard and charge you for it. Concrete only sets up in a drum if the truck quits operating.
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Gary O
Member
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# Posted: 13 Jun 2011 09:11am
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Quoting: toyota_mdt_tech Concrete only sets up in a drum if the truck quits operating.
Yeah, a couple barrel truck drivers I knew, had the Blood, Sweat, and Tears song 'Spinnin' Wheel, got to go 'round, on a loop in their cab.
Yes, if the barrel stops, the cement will be dumped, then 'There will be blood'......
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Lumber Guy
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# Posted: 15 Jun 2011 04:55am
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We had a similar problem. Our drive way was cut in during a dry spell, and we learned that a "wet-weather"spring was uphill. We initially tried to put just gravel in, and decided to alter our approach after one stuck gravel truck and wrecker bill. After a lot of trial and error, we used 6" corrugated black plastic pipe to cross under the drive and carry the water further down hill. The drive was then covered with large stone, #57 on top of that, then crush and run for the final top.
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TWilliams
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# Posted: 16 Jun 2011 07:03pm
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Heres what happend to my road whan the gravel truck came by. My load of gravel that was for the foundation was used to fix the roadway instead :-(
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paddyboy12432
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# Posted: 28 Jun 2011 06:25pm
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I drive a concrete mixer for a living 12 yrs. now. I gotta tell you these trucks are all wheel drive with big mudd ripping tires and low range gears for "crawling" to very difficult places. Plus for that little bit of crete the truck will be light and that gives it a big advantage. Call prior to delivery and make sure you request a front discharge truck not a rear. also request them to send a "coal chute" .....the truck should have 16 feet of chute and the coal chute gives an additional 20 ft. when the driver shows up tell him to "lock it in and put it in low" . try to prep the site as best you can and if he gets stuck....throw big rocks under his wheel for "gripption" lol. any tire will catch . try not to sign anything until after the pour if possible and you wont be responsible for wrecker charges to pull him out. if you are responsible it can get expensive. also when you call for the coal chute ask about "short load" charges and "overtime fees" also another option is to rent a poer buggy from the local rental and he will pour it into the buggy from dry ground and you can buggy it to the site over ply wood path. good luck!
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sabiggs
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# Posted: 29 Jun 2011 07:18pm
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Great info Paddyboy. Thanks a million.
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Cooks Dock
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# Posted: 24 Jul 2011 09:28am
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I agree with Paddy. I would rent a small loader, skidsteer, BobCat or Thomas and run it up.
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