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xinull
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# Posted: 3 Apr 2022 12:25am
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I'm planning to install homemade cedar shingle siding on my cabin this summer. I live in New-Brunswick Canada, our winters are pretty harsh and we have a lot of humidity here as well.
I really like the natural color of cedar, and I would truly want to try and keep that look after the installation. Or to very close to the original color.
Another thing, I would prefer easier long term maintenance. Yes, I'm lazy..but I really like the look of cedar singles. That means I would prefer not having to sand anything when I reapply after x years. I would prefer if I could reapply directly on top of my previous application if possible. I hear that some stains and preservatives allows reapplication without sanding
That said. What are my best options?
I heard of people applying boiled linseed oil to protect the cedar. And you can reapply every few year on top of existing application. But I've heard that linseed oil will make your shingles go darker and darker over time until they are almost black. Any truth to this?
What do you guys recommend?
What results have you personally gotten from stains and preservatives on cedar shingles.
Looking to hear about everyone's experiences and recommendations
Thanks
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ICC
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# Posted: 3 Apr 2022 02:56pm
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I do like the natural, fresh cut, appearance of many woods, including cedar.
The phrases, "the natural color of cedar" and "easier long term maintenance" are a classic dichotomy.
Anything that is applied to cedar shingles, siding, will need replacement at many future dates.
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gcrank1
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# Posted: 3 Apr 2022 04:05pm
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Ime, strictly following instructions, the 1st application makes you not anxious to do another yet you Need to do again the very next year, then every few years after that.
It ever ends, work and expense.
Homemade cedar shingle siding? How in the world would you sand that if you 'had' to for a reapplication?
I think stains comes down to Transparent, Semi-transparent and Solid Color. Might be T is pretty much like a sealer but arent 'sealers' in specific meant to have something else cover them? T might act as as a sealer and topcoat.
Only the Transparent has a chance of leaving the most natural color.
Semi-T I think will help blend but looses some of the natural because it does have some pigment in it.
Solid Color? Looks to me more like paint anyway and not at all natural.
Btw, raw wood, especially roughish, is miserable to brush apply to and soaks up finish like mad; Id want to spray.
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Brettny
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# Posted: 4 Apr 2022 09:34am
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I believe BLO is a mold attractant. I wouldnt use that stuff on anything.
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scott100
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# Posted: 4 Apr 2022 01:27pm
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I've had good luck with Flood CWF brand sealant. It's one of the more reasonably priced ones and holds up for at least a couple of years. The "natural" one darkens the wood some. I usually start with that, and eventually if I need a more even color, I can always switch to the cedar color to add some pigment in later years. If you set up way to dry them, you could dip the shingles in it before installation. You'd get a great first coat that way. Maybe a bit labor intensive, but you wouldn't spill your beer having to move it around as you brushed or sprayed it on.
If you want to spend more money and have it last longer, the PPG Prolux line of exterior stain products (used to be branded Sikkens) works well. I use the SRD RE product on my log cabin. I don't think I would try dipping them with this product as they might end up with shiny spots. FWIW, PPG also makes Flood.
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snobdds
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# Posted: 4 Apr 2022 02:29pm
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I spray my cedar fence with Flood UV oil. It lasts about 10 years per application. The pickets still look like new.
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morock
Member
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# Posted: 5 Apr 2022 10:16am
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I had molding problems with linseed oil and stopped using it 20 years ago. I use " lifeline" stain and varnish from Canadian log home supply. I have it on my pine log cabin with excellent results and easy reapplication. I use their recommend log wash and then reapply stain and varnish. UV increases the application frequency. I'm on year 12 with one reapplication and looks as good as new. First time I sprayed as I was in a big hurry to get dryed in, brushing it on gives thicker coat and therefore longer frequency.
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xinull
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# Posted: 7 Apr 2022 12:08am - Edited by: xinull
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Thanks for all the good replies.
I'm a bit surprise to hear that boiled linseed oil is mold attractant, since everything I read is that BOL is bug repelant and preserves the wood. Guess you can't believe everything on the internet
I understand that I can't go without reapplication. And that I will have to re-apply once in a while. I'm trying to see what gets me a more relaxed life. I don't have or plan on having any sort of water or electricity at the camp. Best I can do is a generator. So the easier the re-application the better for me
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xinull
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# Posted: 7 Apr 2022 12:10am
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Anyone else want to share what product they use on cedar and there personal experience are welcome to continue replying to this post. All stories and recommendations are welcomed
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gcrank1
Member
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# Posted: 7 Apr 2022 01:34pm
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I wood think (lol  ) that whatever the best treatment is for log homes will be the best for yours.
Probably pricey too.
As much as we like the natural, fresh sawn' look we are letting our sawmill board siding age/weather to gray. We have aged that way too.
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NorthRick
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# Posted: 7 Apr 2022 06:24pm
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I understand that I can't go without reapplication. And that I will have to re-apply once in a while. I'm trying to see what gets me a more relaxed life. I don't have or plan on having any sort of water or electricity at the camp. Best I can do is a generator. So the easier the re-application the better for me
Pick a siding other than wood. If you insist on cedar siding, learn to love the color gray and just let it do that.
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