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Cedar Fever
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# Posted: 31 Mar 2022 08:47pm - Edited by: Cedar Fever
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Ok I put some studs under that main beam.
That beam was nailed from the sides into the single stud. The support stud had cracked on one side a good 18 inches so I could have been in for a failure at some point.
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gcrank1
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# Posted: 1 Apr 2022 10:41am
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Caught that just in time!
That underscores the need for adequate support/transfer of load to ground rather than just the floor box frame.
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spencerin
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# Posted: 1 Apr 2022 07:21pm
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That beam should be keeping the walls from spreading out the thus the roof from sagging. How is the beam attached to the walls?
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Cedar Fever
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# Posted: 1 Apr 2022 09:12pm - Edited by: Cedar Fever
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Quoting: spencerin How is the beam attached to the walls?
So the beam is 3 boards wrapped around a stud. The sides of the beam are nailed into the stud, that’s it. I will put more fasteners into the area after I run electrical wires around.
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spencerin
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# Posted: 10 Apr 2022 01:03am - Edited by: spencerin
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I was just checking in on the thread, and after looking at your pictures again, I think you should go the spray-foam route. Is that daylight between the wall top-plates and the metal roof on the long sides? If so, spray foam would seal that right up. Much better than adding foam closure strips.
I was also thinking you could add some type of tie to strengthen the connection of the lateral roof rafters to the short walls.
Finally, I wouldn't add just more fasteners to the horizontal beam-to-stud connection but just one long through bolt. Add another 2-by that runs up to the top wall top plate on the other side of the stud (opposite the one that's already there), and tie it all together with the though bolt. Nails can pull out, but a thicker bolt with a nut and washer on the end with keep it all tied together.
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Brettny
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# Posted: 10 Apr 2022 06:09am
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Quoting: spencerin That beam should be keeping the walls from spreading out the thus the roof from sagging. How is the beam attached to the walls?
In this cabin it isnt really doing that nor is it needed. This is a 3 truss design with roof rafters 90* from what we normal use. There more of a perlin so the roof isnt pushing out in this case. Theres also no snow at his cabin so roof load would be prety minimal.
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spencerin
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# Posted: 10 Apr 2022 03:24pm
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Respectfully disagree. Gravity is gravity and pulls straight down based on mass, irrespective of rafter configuration or snow load.
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PA_Bound
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# Posted: 11 Apr 2022 10:50am
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Cedar... sorry to be late replying, but I've been away from the site for a few weeks. I went down the same route that you are going- converting a shed into a cabin. Mine originally had a shingle roof, over which I added metal about 10 years later (looking back, should have done that from the get-go).
I just want to add that insulating and covering the ceiling has been one of the most difficult aspects of my shed-to-cabin conversion. Not that the work was technically challenging, but the physical demands of the working height and angles played hell on my body (especially my back). So when you are considering your insulation options, don't discount the amount of effort required to install whatever you choose (especially if you are a "one man band" doing it all). IMHO... If I had it to do over I would do spray foam. I think that would be the least effort, and quite possibly even the best option.
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Redah
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# Posted: 21 Aug 2022 08:49am
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Quoting: Tim_Ohio If you are ole like I am and closer to the end, then the beginning, go for it.
Thank you for the laugh!
That's the way we've been planning our life lately.
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