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travellerw
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# Posted: 7 Feb 2022 11:49am
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Ok.. I'm nearing the point where we are talking about flooring options. I would love to hear ideas.
Our first thought was to do carpet in the main area and back bedroom.... but now that we see how much mess the wood makes we have scrapped that.
Now our thought is to do "Vinyl Plank" on the main floor, with carpet in the back bedroom. Then use some throw carpets to help warm things up.
I'm leaning towards carpet in the loft as it will be warm and more importantly easy to install.
My biggest concern is the temperature changes. Vinyl moves a lot with temp changes, but how much. I'm thinking a wide baseboard should give me enough room for shrinkage and expansion.
Thoughts?
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Steve_S
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# Posted: 7 Feb 2022 12:51pm
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My place in on a Frost Protected Concrete Slab foundation with radiant heating in it. I have a real aversion to synthetics and we had a lot of thinking to do and considerations for fit, finish & durability etc.
We ended up using 12mm Laminated Wood flooring out of Germany with no toxics & nasties within, laid onto a high density foam for the particular brand (that was expensive shit too compared to the usual stuff). But the flooring did not cost much more than the other highly toxic imported crud. Installed for full floating with 1/2 space from the Drywal with the 3/4" thick baseboard over it but 2mm above the floor to not interfere. Baseboards, door trims etc all installed after the flooring was down.
The whole house is done (not the storage loft of course, no point), including Kitchen & Washroom and have not had a single issue at all. It's really tough, I've dropped dishes and no breaks (gobsmacked no breakage) and cannot complain.
Because there is an "Over Abundance" of red, white pine along with finished red & white cedar, very minimal drywall here and no synthetics (even counter tops are 12"x24" Vitreous Ceramic Tile) we had to spend a lot of time to figure out which colour & texture pattern would work to keep everything in harmony. That was the real PITA.
Installation is not hard, just requires patience. Clean up is very easy. It can take significant abuse without damage and is Temperature Neutral.
One thing I learned in my research prior to getting it, avoid anything less than 10mm thick, the layers are thicker and more durable the thicker the panels. I have seen 8mm put into a Rental place and 2 years later there are wear tracks you can see and the edges will start to curl/fuzz when that starts.
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travellerw
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# Posted: 7 Feb 2022 02:34pm
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Quoting: Steve_S We ended up using 12mm Laminated Wood flooring out of Germany with no toxics & nasties within, laid onto a high density foam for the particular brand (that was expensive shit too compared to the usual stuff).
That is interesting.. I spoke with a couple of flooring guys here and they advised I stay away from any wood products. They said the temperature and humidity swings would make wood a poor choice.
You are in Ontario, so I'm guessing a similar temperature range (and probably way more humidity). That makes me think a laminated wood product may work fine!
I have some research to do now!
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ICC
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# Posted: 7 Feb 2022 04:06pm
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Would you consider a ceramic tile floor?
That is what I used in my 16x30. As well every floor in the habitable space in my home is tiled.
We used Advantech subfloor panels, then Hardi cement-fiber panels screwed and mortared to the subfloor, then the tiles. Native American rugs here and there as desired. The tile is easy to clean with vacuuming and washing with wet mops as needed.
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jsahara24
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# Posted: 7 Feb 2022 04:21pm
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We have also been discussing flooring options for our cabin. I have always been afraid of laminate flooring, as in my experience it doesn't hold up to water.
LVP has been holding up very well in a rental I installed it in, but for some reason I always lean to real wood in a cabin but I'm not sure about the temp swings as I don't heat it in the winter....
I just priced out SYP (Southern Yellow Pine) for my place, 2.90$/SF just to purchase. I envision it getting beat up and having a weathered look, a friend of mine installed it and then took a chain to it to beat it up before finishing it.
Tile is also a good option and high on my list. Very durable and water doesn't hurt it. Its a difficult decision for sure....
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travellerw
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# Posted: 7 Feb 2022 04:42pm
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Quoting: ICC Would you consider a ceramic tile floor?
Quoting: jsahara24 Tile is also a good option and high on my list. Very durable and water doesn't hurt it. Its a difficult decision for sure....
I have installed many tile floors, but I just can't do it in the cabin. I don't think it would stand up to the temperature swings. We plan to stay there in the winter and this winter we stayed at -40c. I guarantee the grout will crack If we heated the cabin from even -20 to +20. More importantly, the wife says no tile!
I actually plan some tile under the wood stove and behind it. I know the grout will crack, so I'm gonna install it on Ditra and use "premixed grout". Hopefully that will buy us some years before the inevitable cracking.
As to laminate.. Its still in the running. We have very high quality stuff in our 5th wheel trailer that has held up for 10 years and looks like new. This includes a few months of full time with our teen kids. Like anything... You get what you pay for and the good stuff is expensive.
The good thing about laminate or vinyl plank is its fairly easy to change if it doesn't work out. I could tear it all out in like a 1/2 day.. Of course it would be a terrible waste of materials though.
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Fanman
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# Posted: 7 Feb 2022 05:03pm
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For those who have done vinyl plank, how does it handle uneven floors? Our cabin is a mix of wood and sheet vinyl. We used the thickish softer vinyl sheet, I forget what it's called, and it's held up very well despite being unheated in the winter except when we're there, I think being soft and flexible helps (which is why I picked it). Now I'm redoing our kitchen/living room at home (600sf) and we're debating flooring options, but the floor is very uneven as it spans across three additions with the walls between them removed.
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NorthRick
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# Posted: 7 Feb 2022 05:07pm
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The floor in our current cabin is painted plywood and is due for repainting after 15 years. I'm building a new cabin and don't know what I'm going to do there yet.
Our friends next to us put in the vinyl plank and it looks pretty good. These are weekend cabins and are unheated when we are not there. So far (little over a year) no problems with the vinyl.
My coworker also has a weekend cabin and put in ceramic tile. He used an isolation membrane and has not had any issues so far either.
Our cabins see temps ranging from 90f to -30f.
As far as wood goes, it could care less about temperature swings. It's humidity changes that makes it swell or shrink. That said, I have hardwood floors in our house in town. This time of year the relative humidity is less than 20%. Come August/September it will be well over 70%. You can see the changes in the floor over the course of a year. However, it is 2.5" wide strips with microbeveled edges and looks great winter or summer.
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ICC
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# Posted: 7 Feb 2022 05:15pm - Edited by: ICC
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Quoting: travellerw I don't think it would stand up to the temperature swings.
Mine swings between 95 F and -20 F and was done in 2010. No cracks anywhere. But if your wife says No, then it is a No. I used a metal sheet on the cement-fiber board instead of tile under the stove (copper).
Three of the inside walls are drywall, the others, and the ceiling T&G pine, FWIW. No cracks in the drywall either.
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Steve_S
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# Posted: 8 Feb 2022 03:16am
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Quoting: travellerw That is interesting.. I spoke with a couple of flooring guys here and they advised I stay away from any wood products. They said the temperature and humidity swings would make wood a poor choice. You are in Ontario, so I'm guessing a similar temperature range (and probably way more humidity). That makes me think a laminated wood product may work fine!
I bought "Classen 12mm" Laminate from BMR, it was a special promotion at the time as it was their newest No-Toxic version... twas a few years ago and holds up very well. The underlayment though has to be the good high density stuff... that really thin stuff is a nightmare. If you go for 8mm consider that temporary or <10 year life in general use.
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Bruces
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# Posted: 8 Feb 2022 04:19am
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I went with commercial carpet tiles in my cabin .I do a lot of bank flooring jobs ,have done a few dozen TD banks and I have a stockpile of them .Its warm ,it’s black with thin green stripes ,it wears like iron ,and it was free .It also took a half hour .I will replace it with wood someday ,but for now it’s a great floor .
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Brettny
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# Posted: 8 Feb 2022 04:30am - Edited by: Brettny
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Quoting: travellerw hat is interesting.. I spoke with a couple of flooring guys here and they advised I stay away from any wood products. They said the temperature and humidity swings would make wood a poor choice
They are right. Temp/humidity changes can warp and cup boards.
I have a unheated back porch and a rental with the same flooring. In the unheated porch its 3yrs old. In the rental is about 11yrs old. Neither one show much wear. I used the cheapest click lock flooring in could find. It was $1.19sqft from Ollie's. I didnt even use foam backed for the porch. If the $5sqft click lock stuff costs more..the stuff that's 1/4 the proce alreaty has 11yrs on it.
Vinyl plank is what I see people putting in camper alot now, so I wouldnt expect much movement from cold.
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ICC
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# Posted: 8 Feb 2022 05:31pm - Edited by: ICC
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Quoting: Brettny Vinyl plank is what I see people putting in camper a lot now, so I wouldn't expect much movement from cold.
I would want to check on the thermal expansion and contraction.
I will say that I have no personal long-term experience with any of the vinyl/plastic flooring materials. However, I have seen noticeable dimensional change with composite decking.
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rpe
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# Posted: 8 Feb 2022 05:46pm
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I picked up 5 boxes of the cheapest vinyl click for our 100 sq ft bunkie. Hope to have a chance this winter yet to get it installed. Hopefully it will be a good choice. I've heard positive things, and figure with the small room size, there should be plenty of room for movement under the baseboards.
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gcrank1
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# Posted: 8 Feb 2022 06:55pm
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We have the syn click loc stuff in the living room of the house, 8ys?, looks enough like wood for us and never any issues. I ripped up the carpet and pad down to the plywood and went over it hands and knees feeling out any 'spots' or debris (found some I didnt/couldnt see).
Paid a chap and his teen son to lay it and watched; it was literally a 'snap'. It floats, no adhesive and is Sooo easy to care for. Give some thought to the direction you want/need it to run to minimize waste...maybe.
Years back I did our entry with 1' square parquet wood glued down, even though it looks great and has held up well I'll never do that again!
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FishHog
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# Posted: 9 Feb 2022 06:50am
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We put click vinyl plank in our cottage. Overall I’m very happy but I will say that you need to leave a good gap around the edges. I’ve got a bit of buckling from making it too tight and have a good smooth subfloor as any imperfections will show through
When I arrive in the winter and get the woodstove ripping the immediate area around it will buckle up some until the rest of the place warms but that isn’t really a big deal
I’d do it again but I’d do it a little better the second time
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travellerw
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# Posted: 9 Feb 2022 12:47pm
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Thanks for the input all.. I appreciate it..
After some talking with wife and some price shopping I think we have settled on 2 options. It will either be vinyl plank or high end laminate in the lower areas (maybe a combination).
We will do carpet in the bedroom and loft.
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WILL1E
Moderator
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# Posted: 11 Feb 2022 08:06am
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I'll be in the same boat as you travellerw soon. I've done the entire first floor of our home in Pergo and have been pretty happy with it, so i've thought about doing that for the cabin. I have also though about carpet but i've never installed that myself so i'm not sure if i'd go that route. I have given some thought to the low pile carpet squares as it would make it easy to replace sections if it gets damaged or stained.
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Nate R
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# Posted: 11 Feb 2022 08:28am - Edited by: Nate R
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FWIW, we're on a slab, and looking at doing vinyl plank in the main area, and maybe a cork flooring in the bedroom, with some rugs in both rooms for a bit of warmth.
I used vinyl plank in a shared (with another unit) entryway 8 years ago now, and it's held up well to salt, boots, dog feet, etc.
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travellerw
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# Posted: 11 Feb 2022 10:47am
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Quoting: WILL1E I have also though about carpet but i've never installed that myself so i'm not sure if i'd go that route.
Carpet is super easy DIY, especially if the room is square and smaller than the carpet dimensions (no seams). Even with a seam, its still pretty darn easy. You just need to rent a seaming iron and have a straight cut. Its also the fastest. Pretty sure any DIYer could do a 10X10 room in about 1 hour.
However, in our cabin I wouldn't do carpet in the main floor open areas. I would keep the carpet to the back bedroom and the loft. Away from the door where stuff is tracked in.
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paulz
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# Posted: 11 Feb 2022 03:01pm
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Today was clean the cabin bathroom floor day, always look forward to that. One piece textured linoleum. Do you guys calk around a sink pedestal or toilet? I get a buildup of crud around the edges and kinda underneath in places, hard to keep clean.
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jhp
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# Posted: 11 Feb 2022 03:45pm
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No caulk for me. If the water isn't going down the right hole I want it to come out so I can see it.
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travellerw
Member
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# Posted: 11 Feb 2022 04:22pm
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I'm a caulk guy just for that reason. Its nasty for stuff to get under there.
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ICC
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# Posted: 11 Feb 2022 05:18pm - Edited by: ICC
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It is more likely that water spilled or splashed on the floor or from washing the floor will flow under the pedestal or toilet bottom than water will flow from a leaky pipe hidden under the sink or toilet. Most leaks from pipes are very small and are noticed first from below. Too small to even have water seep out onto the floor. The small leaks would probably run along the drain pipe to some other location. Bathrooms being wetter places than most rooms means water that does seep under the rim will probably be there a while and can contribute to mold, etc.
So yes, caulk the floor to base joint. Use good bathroom rated caulk as that contains anti-mold ingredients.
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gcrank1
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# Posted: 11 Feb 2022 05:20pm
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Ive come to like caulk that peels up fairly easy rather than these new-gen 'supposed to seal everything' that dont and take all day to get back off.
So what if it has to be done more frequently if it is not wicked to do.
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NorthRick
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# Posted: 11 Feb 2022 05:40pm - Edited by: NorthRick
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Quoting: gcrank1 Ive come to like caulk that peels up fairly easy rather than these new-gen 'supposed to seal everything' that dont and take all day to get back off. So what if it has to be done more frequently if it is not wicked to do.
I've come to have quite the disdain for silicone caulks. While they are doing their thing, they are great. But when it comes time to replace it, not so much. It leaves behind a difficult to remove film that nothing wants to stick to, including silicone.
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travellerw
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# Posted: 11 Feb 2022 07:48pm
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Quoting: NorthRick I've come to have quite the disdain for silicone caulks. While they are doing their thing, they are great. But when it comes time to replace it, not so much. It leaves behind a difficult to remove film that nothing wants to stick to, including silicone.
Acrylic with Silicone is a good in the middle. Once it gets old it gets brittle and comes off pretty easy with a wooden spudger.
I do find that quality silicones with mold protection are pretty amazing. I redid a bathroom at my parents house 12 years ago and the silicone that was used in the shower/tub surround still looks like new. She uses it daily.
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DryCreek
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# Posted: 12 Feb 2022 08:13am
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"We put click vinyl plank in our cottage. Overall I’m very happy but I will say that you need to leave a good gap around the edges."
FWIW, last summer we installed vinyl plank. The package said something like 'for use only in conditioned spaces 60 to 80 degF'. Since I didn't notice that until after I bought it, I installed it anyway. The instructions said to put 3/8 foam rope around the edges for expansion and caulk. I left 3/4 inches, put down two pieces of foam rope, and caulked with 'Big Stretch' caulk. Temps at the cabin range have been below zero when we we are gone. I'm not sure how low the interior gets; I have seen it in the upper 20's when the outdoor temp is also in the upper 20's, so I doubt it is too far above ambient. No problems so far, although we're only talking a few months.
Two caveats: this was 'Pergo'; other brands may be different, and this is a tiny (8x16) cabin, so not a lot of distance for expansion to do its dirty work.
Also, the wide gap meant I had to make my own baseboards (I sawed/planed actual 1x2's out of nominal 2x4s, all dolled up with a chamfer).
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paulz
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# Posted: 12 Feb 2022 09:22am - Edited by: paulz
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Quoting: travellerw Acrylic with Silicone is a good in the middle. Once it gets old it gets brittle and comes off pretty easy with a wooden spudger.
Sounds good. One last concern I have is, as I remember, some caulk seems to attract dirt, or dirt sticks to it. I want to be able to clean it as easily as the porcelain and linoleum clean up.
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travellerw
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# Posted: 12 Feb 2022 10:07am
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Quoting: paulz Sounds good. One last concern I have is, as I remember, some caulk seems to attract dirt, or dirt sticks to it.
Unfortunately I have no answer for this. Any caulk with silicone in it is sticky and will collect dirt/hair. They do clean up pretty easily with a wet rag, but its a hands and knees affair.
Maybe someone else has suggestions.
Quoting: DryCreek "We put click vinyl plank in our cottage. Overall I’m very happy but I will say that you need to leave a good gap around the edges."
Thanks I appreciate the comment. I really want to go with vinyl plank but I'm just worried our climate here will be too hard on it.
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