|
| Author |
Message |
spencerin
Member
|
# Posted: 12 Jan 2022 12:04pm - Edited by: spencerin
Reply
Does anybody know what the standard thickness (side-to-side, not front-to-back) is of a 36"-wide pre-hung exterior door jamb? I can't remember the manufacturer or supplier off-hand, but it's a typical white metal door with a composite (not wood) frame.
I'm thinking about installing a storm door. The exterior molding/trim is actually J-channel metal, so I have to trim that back/off so I can place the storm door frame flat against the g-rib metal siding and screw through it into what should be the door jamb.
I want to make sure there's enough "meat" there (side-to-side) to screw into and that I don't accidentally screw into the small gap between the door jamb and the 2x4 framing that holds the full door assembly.
The storm door I bought says I need a min 3/4" width to screw into.....
|
|
Nate R
Member
|
# Posted: 12 Jan 2022 02:04pm
Reply
Most are usually 3/4, maybe more.
My 36" doors have been measuring around 37 5/8 wide, IIRC. So probably 3/4" stock.
|
|
gcrank1
Member
|
# Posted: 12 Jan 2022 02:08pm
Reply
If your 'rough opening' will allow it they is nothing (afaik) against putting another piece of wood on that jam to thicken it up so you have more room for hitting wood with a screw.
|
|
Nate R
Member
|
# Posted: 12 Jan 2022 02:19pm
Reply
Now that I think about it more, there's often brickmold on prehung exterior doors....and that would be wider. Storms can be screwed to just that. Storm door screws are usually 3/4 or 1" max, IIRC.
|
|
spencerin
Member
|
# Posted: 12 Jan 2022 02:25pm
Reply
That's part of the problem - I don't have brickmold but metal J-channel molding/trim that's flush with the doorway. I have to trim that off so the storm door frame can be screwed into something solid.
|
|
ICC
Member
|
# Posted: 12 Jan 2022 02:27pm - Edited by: ICC
Reply
I am slow typing on s lousy signal and now see others have responded. Never mind. 
.
|
|
ICC
Member
|
# Posted: 12 Jan 2022 03:02pm - Edited by: ICC
Reply
Maybe consider re-trimming the door with some 1x4 or whatever and mount the new storm door to that.
|
|
BRADISH
Member
|
# Posted: 12 Jan 2022 04:23pm
Reply
Rough Openings on the 36" exterior doors I'm currently spec'ing at Home Depot are pretty much 38 1/2".
From the Home Depot product page:
"Requires a 38-1/2 in. x 82-1/2 in. rough opening for a secure fit"
|
|
|
gcrank1
Member
|
# Posted: 12 Jan 2022 04:51pm
Reply
That is wide to provide for the shimming.
|
|
BRADISH
Member
|
# Posted: 12 Jan 2022 04:53pm
Reply
Quoting: gcrank1 That is wide to provide for the shimming.
Right. I was just responding to the original question.
|
|
spencerin
Member
|
# Posted: 12 Jan 2022 05:18pm - Edited by: spencerin
Reply
Ah, fooey! I need to go and and get some additional measurements. I do know the door width is exactly 36" wide by 80" tall, which I believe the manufacturer (of an EMCO 100 Series) allows, but I need to see if there's enough depth there to allow the storm door to close without touching the exterior door. I think not having solid molding/trim could cause some problems here.....
The issue is I keep getting water through the back door despite lots of investigation/inspection and caulk. I would rather not get an awning.
|
|
ICC
Member
|
# Posted: 12 Jan 2022 05:28pm - Edited by: ICC
Reply
Water through the door to wall connection or through the door to door frame interface? Can you tell?
|
|
gcrank1
Member
|
# Posted: 12 Jan 2022 05:29pm
Reply
This is not going to be what you want to read.
If the door was installed as typical with an exterior casing (and the j-channel butted up to that), the storm door frame would just screw down to that casing.
Basically the doorway should be re-trimmed/trimmed out properly. The j-channel and siding should be cut back to allow the exterior casing be installed, paying particular attention to waterproofing beneath to prevent water infiltration and rot.
After all that you could put on the storm door.....
|
|
spencerin
Member
|
# Posted: 12 Jan 2022 06:36pm
Reply
ICC, I can't tell for certain. I think it's somehow getting behind the seals on the side and leaking down onto the floor. Or the door itself has a leak point I can't identify. Everything else seems buttoned up tight.
gcrank, unfortunately, it's not trimmed up that way. I think I should be able to surface-mount it if I trim away the J-channel. If the storm door itself is exactly 36" wide, or very close to it, and the depth is there, I don't see why I wouldn't be fine (other than making sure I have enough "meat" to screw into).
|
|
spencerin
Member
|
# Posted: 12 Jan 2022 08:49pm
Reply
Nevermind that, I thought the frame mounted flush, but there's still a recess in it. Still have to double-check measurements, but I'm pretty certain I'll have to stuff solid backer in the J-channel and get extra long screws if I want to do this over an awning. What a pain.....
|
|
gcrank1
Member
|
# Posted: 12 Jan 2022 09:40pm
Reply
Well, how about 'ghetto'?
Put some 1x4s (3/4 x 3 1/2) up around the j-channel as a 'casing'.
Do prefinish them.
Attach the storm door frame to them.
|
|
|
