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lburners
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# Posted: 22 Dec 2021 10:21pm
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I am thinking of doing 1"x6" vertical siding on my little cabin build. Affixed to 1"x3" furring strips. Would it be possible to use a 16g nailer and 1 3/4" nails or should I just stick to my current mode of fastening which is screws.
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darz5150
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# Posted: 22 Dec 2021 10:38pm
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I've used 18g 2 inch to attach car siding for a ceiling before with no problems.
How far are you spacing your strips?
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ICC
Member
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# Posted: 22 Dec 2021 10:46pm
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The rule of thumb that has been used for generations it that a nail should be at least 3x as long as the material being secured. So, a common 1x6 should be secured with a 2-1/4" long nail {3/4" x 3}
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darz5150
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# Posted: 22 Dec 2021 11:01pm - Edited by: darz5150
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Quoting: ICC The rule of thumb that has been used for generations it that a nail should be at least 3x as long as the material being secured.
We have used 3 1/4 inch for standard 2 x 4 framing. My nail gun can't shoot 4 1/2 nails.
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Brettny
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# Posted: 23 Dec 2021 04:37am
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No way would I use a 16ga nailer on almost anything exterior. Make sure your nails are galvanized too.
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lburners
Member
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# Posted: 23 Dec 2021 09:08am
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I was thinking the strips would be 2ft apart. Kinda steering away from the nailer based on some of the comments.
I was just thinking I could get my hands on a 16g battery nailer in the 100-150$ range. It would speed up the process a bit. Not really into the compressor and air tools as I have to lug everything in by atv and have been doing everything thus far without a generator.
3 or 4 galvanized 16g every 2 ft on a 1x6 sounds like it might be questionable. As far as length when not hitting a stud the only thing behind it would be the 3/4" furring and 1/2" ply so 2 1/4" would probably pop right out the other side.
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Nate R
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# Posted: 23 Dec 2021 09:11am
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I'd use longer nails, at LEAST 2 inch, maybe 2 1/2....and stainless for that. I used 2" stainless to hold 1x4 T&G on my soffits... worked OK so far. But I think that's on the edge, using 16 ga for siding.... I'd be looking harder at the screws....
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lburners
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# Posted: 23 Dec 2021 09:29am - Edited by: lburners
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Well I will probably end up using the 16g for some interior wall treatment and trim so maybe I will be able to still get myself a Christmas present 
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Brettny
Member
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# Posted: 23 Dec 2021 09:41am
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You dont really need a furring strip if theres 1/2in plywood. Behind it.
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lburners
Member
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# Posted: 23 Dec 2021 09:56am
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Yeah I didn't really like the idea of a bunch of nail heads penetrating the sheathing. Figured the furring would give it a little more bite. This is my first build though so I have no idea what I am doing.
Got it dried in this season but have a lot of work to do yet.
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Brettny
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# Posted: 23 Dec 2021 10:21am
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Is this plywwood or OSB sheethin? Osb dosnt hold nails or screws very good. If it's real plywood I wouldnt fur it out and just attempt to hit the studs when you can.
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lburners
Member
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# Posted: 23 Dec 2021 10:46am
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Its plywood. Thing is I was planning to run vertical so there would be pieces that fell in the middle of the studs.
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Nate R
Member
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# Posted: 23 Dec 2021 10:56am
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And with any "reservoir" cladding, a rainscreen is a VERY smart idea. I'd do the furring strips for that reason alone.
I'm thinking of using cedar lap siding on part of my small cabin, and planning to use a "cedar breather" type mesh behind it so it can dry out/ventilate.
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lburners
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# Posted: 23 Dec 2021 11:22am - Edited by: lburners
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Yeah I saw a video where the guy even notched out the furring for water drainage. Thought that was cool. I have pretty decent overhang but I think one of the sides still gets some direct fire occasionally from rainfall. Right now its just wrapped in tar paper.
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paulz
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# Posted: 23 Dec 2021 11:26am
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Quoting: lburners I was just thinking I could get my hands on a 16g battery nailer in the 100-150$ range.
I have both a Passlode framing and trim nailer I used on my cabin. Handy when they worked but a pita when they didn't. Probably 10 years old now, maybe they are better now but be weary of older ones.
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lburners
Member
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# Posted: 23 Dec 2021 11:37am
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Ashamed to say I was looking at the Ryobi Air Strike. Probably get roasted by the tool snobs.
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ICC
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# Posted: 23 Dec 2021 01:37pm
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Isn't the Ryobi Air Strike tool, in 16 gauge, called a finish nailer? They are really meant for trim, mouldings, and such things. If you are planning on installing siding of any kind I would not recommend the use of finishing nails.
Any exterior fasteners should be rust resistant.
I have used a Ryobi 18 ga. brad nailer as well as the 16 gauge finish nailer. Not bad tools for DIY use but not as well made as my Senco tools. Not nearly as costly either.
A rain screen wall is an excellent type of construction but really works best with horizontal siding and vertical furring strips. I/we have done lots of those. My cabin and home both use rain screen walls where we have lap siding installed. Hardie cement fiber type. The vertical furring strips allow any water that gets behind the siding to freely drain. That won't happen easily with horizontal strips. The vertical strips also allow for air ventilation. When coupled with a foil faced weather barrier that can help with temperature control. Screening is required for insect control. Many ways to do that.
I know that vertical is sometimes desired for aesthetic reasons. In that case, using two layers of furring strips can be used. First vertical strips, to allow water to descend and then horizontal strips to secure the vertical siding to.
Is this meant to be a board and batten type of siding? The finish nailer might be good for the battens.
Stainless steel fasteners are better than galvanized outside. Galvy won't rust but can still make dark streaks if they get wet. That may not be an issue at times, such as when nailoing lap siding in horizontal rows. The nails are hidden and generally do not get wet.
When nailing siding to a wall sheathed with OSB use ring shank nails. Ring shank nails will not creep out with temperature swings like smooth shank nails can. Spiral shank are also excellent. Ring shank nails are available in gun nails and can be galvanized too.
When nailing to sheathing the nail length can be shorter than the rule of thumb of 3X, but should penetrate the sheathing by 1/2 or so.
LP recommends a minimum shank diameter of 0.092" for its siding materials with a 0.113" dia. preferred. 16 gauge are about 0.062".
Another rule of thumb.... 16 gauge nails line up to have about 16 per inch. 18 gauge would have about 18 nails per inch and so on.
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Nate R
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# Posted: 23 Dec 2021 01:38pm
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My older 16ga nailer died this year while doing soffits. I decided to stay a little cheaper than the battery ones I saw and stick with air. But got decent quality air for $110. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MDDT2LV/
-Nate
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Brettny
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# Posted: 23 Dec 2021 02:11pm
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Definitely use something better than tar paper behind any siding.
I did 2 houses with a air powered porter cable $90 16ga trim nailer. Then I saw a deal on a 15ga m18 cordless that I really only bought for the extra charger and battery. I never used that air powered gun ever again. Granted I still love our bostitch framing gun and coiled roof nail gun. For in the house though I prefer a cordless gun.
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Steve_S
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# Posted: 23 Dec 2021 03:11pm
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My place is Live Edge Cedar, with Sheathing to Insulation Barrier, to Cross strapping then an 8" wide Plank with 6-9" wide live edge face planks. (Rainscreen type install).
I used 3-1/4" Galvanised Nails with my 34 degrees Air Nailer. Yes Galvanised because I did not want to see Nail Tears running down the walls. A few of the planks are Screwed on with 3-1/2" #8 Coated (brown) screws to make what is behind accessible (light & plug wiring for example).
It is such a terribly sad thing to see a Nice Siding job turned to muck after 2 years thanks to the stains from un-galvanised nails. And for the slight extra cost, it makes sense, not teh place to cut on a bit of cost.
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lburners
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# Posted: 23 Dec 2021 03:28pm - Edited by: lburners
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"Brettny
Member # Posted: 23 Dec 2021 14:11
Reply Quote
Definitely use something better than tar paper behind any siding."
Why would you go and say something like this Brett.
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paulz
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# Posted: 23 Dec 2021 06:10pm - Edited by: paulz
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Maybe responding to your post a few back that you had only tar paper on it now. I have only tar paper under my siding, didn't know any better at the time, the wraps were fairly new then iirc but they were around. I'm in a mild climate so probably not as big a factor but I would do it now.
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NorthRick
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# Posted: 23 Dec 2021 06:32pm
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Quoting: paulz I have both a Passlode framing and trim nailer I used on my cabin. Handy when they worked but a pita when they didn't. Probably 10 years old now, maybe they are better now but be weary of older ones.
I have an older Paslode and a newer one. Agree that when they work they are great and when they don't there are a lot of 4-letter words echoing through the woods. Last year I bought a Milwalkee battery powered framing nailer. The thing is a beast.
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ICC
Member
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# Posted: 23 Dec 2021 08:11pm
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Tar paper or building felt and synthetics both do a good job when installed correctly. Both can be installed poorly and then neither is as good as either could be. Building felt still has some advantages. It repels liquid water quite well, does allow moisture to evaporate outwards, and does stop air movement when installed correctly. Perhaps if one is trying to make as tight an envelope as possible, a better job could be done with a good synthetic. But, IMO, many DIY builders would not be able to see any difference between the two; many "pro" built structures too.
On a job site with a crew, the wide rolls of synthetic wraps allow the work to progress more rapidly. That is important to a building contractor. The large rolls can be a hindrance to a solo worker.
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lburners
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# Posted: 23 Dec 2021 08:34pm
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Yeah had a tough enough time with the 3ft roll of tar paper.
As usual thanks everyone for the insight. Looks like I will stick with the screws on this job when the time comes. Just gotta wait the winter out at this point. Couple months to plan and dream before reality kicks in. Lets hope building material prices dip a bunch before then.
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darz5150
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# Posted: 23 Dec 2021 11:27pm - Edited by: darz5150
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Might want to add a good staple gun to your wish list. House wrap or tar paper goes a lot easier with one handy.
I've got 3 slap staplers, and one air stapler. The air stapler is the go to one most of the time.
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Brettny
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# Posted: 24 Dec 2021 01:02pm
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Quoting: lburners Yeah had a tough enough time with the 3ft roll of tar paper. As usual thanks everyone for the insight. Looks like I will stick with the screws on this job when the time comes. Just gotta wait the winter out at this point. Couple months to plan and dream before reality kicks in. Lets hope building material prices dip a bunch before then.
Tar paper is actualy prety heavy and once it gets wet a few times is nearly useless. A 9ft tall roll of house wrap is actualy alot easier to handle. Staple up one corner, run the roll to the other corner, then go back and staple about as far as you can reach each time you move the ladder.
Tar paper dosnt take to wrinkles very well because it makes a huge lump, it also tears really easy and can even get holes from a hammer stapler. It's worth the few bucks on even cheap house wrap
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paulz
Member
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# Posted: 24 Dec 2021 01:20pm
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Nail guns and house wraps and air staplers, oh my!
If our forefathers could see us now. 
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ICC
Member
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# Posted: 24 Dec 2021 01:52pm - Edited by: ICC
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I don't have any pictures of wrinkle free, nice and tight building felt, on my phone, so I cannot post one right now, but when we installed felt there were no wrinkles or at worst minimal wrinkles... Nothing that would cause a lump as the siding was installed. . So, IMO, if one has wrinkles large enough to cause problems that meets my criteria of being not installed correctly.
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ICC
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# Posted: 24 Dec 2021 02:36pm
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Found an image of some building felt covered walls a friend did years ago hidden in some old photos I forgot I had on the phone. All by himself too. I did a crude edit on my phone cutting out his face as I do not permission to post.
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