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ThisOldCabinNJ
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# Posted: 17 Oct 2021 08:18am
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I’m sure I’m going to get some flack for this but bare with me: I’m on a tight budget so I’m exploring different options.
I’ll cut to the chase if you don’t want to read (I’ll explain below with greater detail as to why): I’m thinking of using 5/16†thick T&G boards from B’Lowes as a ceiling covering. It’s lightweight, easier to handle, avail in 8’ lengths and affordable.
I’d like some opinions on this product as a ceiling covering and why. I know traditionally 3/4†boards are used but between cost and weight of the boards, I have my reasons to look elsewhere. If anyone has a source for fair priced 3/4†boards I’m open to suggestions.
This is my thought process:
I’m about to close on a small cabin. I bought the house cash as to work on it as I come and go. funds are currently limited and the ceiling is one of the first few things I need to address. The ceiling is vaulted, rafters exposed and uninsulated. The estate of the previous owner removed the insulation and the previous owner never had an interior ceiling anyhow. He smoked and I believe insulation held in a lot of that smell so for resale purposes they abated the Kraft faced fiberglass.
Anyhow, I plan to add insulation and a ceiling covering somewhat soon (within the next several months).
Drywall is cheap raw material-wise but finish wise it’s not. I LOATH finishing drywall especially on a vaulted ceiling as I’m too anal-retentive and it’ll take me a decade to do it. If I went with drywall I would have to hump all the panels home and then hang them up by myself. I’d then have to pay someone to tape and float it so there’s that cost… there are alternatives of comparable cost.
I know T&G is a classic option but 3/4†boards are not only pricey (using box store home center prices as my basis) and heavier than drywall. The roof already has sagged (lack of rafter and collar ties - to be fixed first) so once fixed I don’t want to add more weight than I need to inside.
My idea to use 5/16†T&G “paneling†hit me when I found it in B’Lowe’s. They come in true 8’ pieces at like 14SF per bundle it ends up being less than cost of finished drywall (me installing the ‘rock and a sparkler to tape and float). Besides drywall would be plain and boring. My only concern with this thin board is buckling. Current rafters are 24†on center so I feel I’d need to add more center nailers for the thinner boards.
That said, does anyone see why this is a bad alternative and why. What am I missing? Also, does anyone have a source for fair priced 3/4†T&G boards? I haven’t tried a local lumber yard but historically they’re more $ than a B’Lowes or Home Deepoh.
Thanks
-Al C
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Brettny
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# Posted: 17 Oct 2021 10:04am
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I would avoid any box stores for this specific material. That and any log cabin siding. This is more of a specialty type of wood that a big box store shopper isnt going to use thus the price reflects it.
New hampton lumber isnt to far from northern NJ and they show 1x6 TandG pine for $1.60 sqft.
https://newhamptonlumberco.com/eastern-white-pine/
Therea also an auction company that sells budding materials all over this area that some times will have this pine interior paneling. Lambrecht auctions.
What price per sqft did you see at the big box stores for 1x6 pine?
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Aklogcabin
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# Posted: 17 Oct 2021 10:23am
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The biggest problem you maybe have is that is could sag a bit. Since it's on a ceiling. The insulation behind it may weigh it down also. Maybe buy a bundle n tack them up. I have no idea why you would not buy them at HD or Lowes or big box stores. The company making the paneling doesn't use different wood for the product they sell at big stores or small stores.
Hey good luck have fun
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fiftyfifty
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# Posted: 17 Oct 2021 11:32am
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I think the thinner stuff will work well enough, even at 24" o.c. I agree with Aklogcabin, you can buy a bundle and put it up, and if you like the look, then go for it. If you don't like the look, then I suppose you could wait for the price of 3/4 thick to go down. Or, if the roof shingles need replacing too, an entirely different option would be to leave the rafters exposed, and insulate on the outside with sheet insulation.
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ICC
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# Posted: 17 Oct 2021 11:34am
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This stuff works best when glued to a substrate. It is so thin and the tongues so small there is a good chance of splitting the wood if trying to nail through the tongue like T&G is usually fastened.
Hang sheetrock. You can joint and tape the joints between panels and do not have to worry about making a perfect finish. The joint only needs to be relatively smooth. You could even skip the taping and fill the joints with caulk.
The seam filling is to stop air movement. Taped drywall does provide a good barrier to air infiltration. Whether or not you are concerned about that is your choice if building code inspections are of no matter and you yourself don't care.
Then glue the thin T&G on the sheetrock with an instant grab adhesive using a tube applicator.
IMO, the lengths do not matter as the appearance is better when the joints are staggered.
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NorthRick
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# Posted: 17 Oct 2021 11:51am
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Quoting: ThisOldCabinNJ That said, does anyone see why this is a bad alternative and why. What am I missing?
Fire. The idea behind sheetrock or thicker wood is to give you more time to get out in the event of a fire before the roof collapses.
Also, as others have said, sag with a thin wood product at 24" OC holding back insulation.
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scott100
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# Posted: 17 Oct 2021 12:14pm
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Do you have a local sawmill in the area? That's always been my go to supplier in our area for t&g boards. Always less than the box stores, better quality, and a local resource.
Another alternative could be white painted msd wainscot (bead) boards (though I don't remember them being particularly inexpensive). For a cheap alternative, you could go with 4 x 8 bead board panels, but the look is...well, you get what you pay for. Either of these choices would require a solid backing, so that adds to the cost.
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Brettny
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# Posted: 17 Oct 2021 12:17pm
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I think paneling and even 5/16 is far to thin for 24in oc and on a ceiling.
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KelVarnsen
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# Posted: 17 Oct 2021 01:12pm
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Quoting: ThisOldCabinNJ If I went with drywall I would have to hump all the panels home and then hang them up by myself.
I bought my cabin about 6 years ago and have been slowly rebuilding it. It had bare rafters when I moved in. I decided to put a ceiling in so that I could insulate. I decided against drywall for the same reasons as you. I ended up put up a thin sheet of painted plywood (about $15 for a 4' x 8' sheet). I was able to handle the materials pretty easily. Then I ran some MDF slats to cover up the seams.
Quoting: NorthRick Fire. The idea behind sheetrock or thicker wood is to give you more time to get out in the event of a fire before the roof collapses.
I put my ceiling in without thinking about the fire code. After I had it up I came across the fire safety of drywall. If I had to do it again I would probably go with drywall for that reason. My cabin is tiny so you are never more than 6 feet from a window. Hopefully if there is ever a fire escaping won't be an issue.
Ceiling Before
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Ceiling After
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gcrank1
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# Posted: 17 Oct 2021 01:57pm
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I get the thoughts about fire, but.....at my place, built of what was not dried local sawmill rough lumber though dry now, is the burning rate diff of the place between drywall on the ceiling vs the wood now likely to be significant? The place would 'go up' pretty quick.
How about insulating then putting up 1x2 cross-runners every 12-16" (like you would if using the old ceiling tiles) then 4x8 sheets of luan 'underlayment' It would provide a well supported 'ceiling' in the short term and eventually you could be putting in the thin t&g.
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Brettny
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# Posted: 17 Oct 2021 03:33pm
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Furring strips and Luan like GC said sounds like the best option. This will also allow you to shim everything flat. Considering the roof is bowing down I bet if you get up there with a 6ft streight edge you will find alot of rafters not flat with the others.
You can even rip 1.5in wide sections of luan for shims if you find the need for very thick shims.
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Fanman
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# Posted: 17 Oct 2021 10:57pm
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I was considering the same thing and when I looked at prices a few months ago, the 3/4" T&G came out cheaper per square foot than the thinner wall paneling T&G. I also considered the 4x8 beadboard, it's what's on my walls, but I didn't want to deal with lifting the 4x8 sheets into place, lifting one 8" wide board at a time is a lot easier.
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ThisOldCabinNJ
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# Posted: 18 Oct 2021 09:35am
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Thanks all for the input. Fire safety is definitely one I didn't consider thoroughly. My cabin is small so you're always near a window. It's also a single floor at grade so jumping out a window is easy to do in an emergency.
The bowing roofline is also something I didn't take into account (and causing headaches trying to line up panels/etc). My roof is definitely sagged in the middle (which will be addressed first) but something for me to keep in mind.
The T&G I priced at lowes (1x8x96 eastern white pine) was $10.56/board. I'd need ~7 pieces to cover a 32.66 SF area which is turn breaks down to $2.26/SF.
The thinner wall paneling ends up being 1.28/SF however this doesn't include any solid backing substrate to nail to OR the cost of adding furring strips as a nailing surface.
Thanks for the info on the saw mill in NY. They're an hour away but thats only 1/2 hour farther than a box store. Most places in northern nj require a minimum of 20-30 min drive. Depending on final budget, this would be the ideal way to go!
Thanks again for the input!
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mj1angier
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# Posted: 18 Oct 2021 09:50am - Edited by: mj1angier
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You might check Craiglist. We have a place here in NC that remills 2x stock into lap and T&G. You end up with one slick side and one rough. They also have #2 that they sell. It has knot holes and splits but when I did our celing I did not have much scrap because I could pick and choose each board from the bundle. Not what you would want to do on a paying job but works on a DIY.
https://raleigh.craigslist.org/mat/d/wendell-factory-2nd-knotty-pine-tg-pine/73955520 02.html
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Grizzlyman
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# Posted: 18 Oct 2021 10:05am - Edited by: Grizzlyman
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Keep in mind- it doesn’t have to be t&g. You can just use 3/4 boards… or even 1/2 boards. I did my ceiling with 3/4 8†14’ long boards.. rough sawn on one side from menards. I bought these in January when prices were lower but I think it worked out to only a little more than $1 per SF.
Now mine is sheathing for the top of the roof but I don’t see why you couldn’t do it the other way. I kind of like the gaps… granted I have tarpaper on top of it so it’s black between them.
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