|
| Author |
Message |
WILL1E
Moderator
|
# Posted: 28 Sep 2021 09:06am
Reply
Most of the headers in my cabin plan are doubled up 2x6's. Curious how ya'll prefer to build up your headers. My plan was to put 1 board flush with outside of studs, another flush with interior of stud and then notch the cripple studs that go above the header to fill the space between the two header boards. This way i can push insulation down between the headers.
Looking online i've seen this way a ton of others and curious what you guys have done. Keep in mind the cabin is in northern WI, so it gets cold in winter here!
|
|
Nate R
Member
|
# Posted: 28 Sep 2021 09:11am
Reply
To me, that's a lot of cutting, etc for that.
I'd just double them on the outside of the wall and insulate the interior portion later..... But I also put a 2x6 under my headers (flat), so there's 1 1/2" of wood to attach drywall or trim at the top of the window opening.
|
|
WILL1E
Moderator
|
# Posted: 28 Sep 2021 09:32am
Reply
Putting the aside the time to notch the studs, it's not a bad method right?
|
|
Nate R
Member
|
# Posted: 28 Sep 2021 10:32am - Edited by: Nate R
Reply
Not bad at all, in my opinion. It's just more time to notch the cripples. I was thinking about time being of the essence for your framing work... Part of why I didn't do something similar on mine....just trying to save...un-dried in time.
|
|
gcrank1
Member
|
# Posted: 28 Sep 2021 10:37am
Reply
Imo, way too futzy if short on time.
Maybe 'I-beam' em with a 2x4 in the center so the 2x6s sit flush both sides and fill top and bottom with insul?
Now if it was early spring and you were just starting...
|
|
WILL1E
Moderator
|
# Posted: 28 Sep 2021 10:50am
Reply
Bit of a tangent, but speaking of dried in...if it starts pouring out once i start working on the walls, to what extent do i need to protect things from getting wet? Once the walls start going up, pretty hard to tarp anything.
|
|
Steve_S
Member
|
# Posted: 28 Sep 2021 10:51am
Reply
My exterior Door & Window headers were made with 2x6-face + 2-1/2" foam + 2x6-face, Top & bottom with 2x6 obviously.
Interior headers are simple, just spaced for door-way headers. Interior walls are 2x4, though.
|
|
Nate R
Member
|
# Posted: 28 Sep 2021 11:04am - Edited by: Nate R
Reply
What is your wall sheathing? OSB?
I had some POURING rain during framing last year. Other than open/uncovered plywood sheets warping some, making them harder to put on the roof or wall, I had no real issues. Some stuff (like my fascia boards) shrank a little more than I would have liked, but not much I can do other than caulk the seams.
I had multiple days where I was using a leaf blower and broom to get water out of the slab/framing. You may want to drill a drain hole in your subfloor somewhere that you seal later if it does flood...
If OSB on the walls.... you want the UNcut edge up/exposed to the rain if at all possible. The colored "paint" on the edges of OSB is a waterproofer as well, to help (temporarily) prevent edge swelling.
If it only gets wet once or twice, you should be OK. The biggest thing is that it is able to dry out before you button it up TIGHT. While I had housewrap on my framing for the last year, it was open to the inside. And I've checked, the framing moisture was fairly high last year (~19-20% for the plywood, studs were up to 18% or so.).. Now it's definitely drier, in the 14-15% range. Won't get much drier than that in that climate, unheated.
I believe 17% is the sensible limit I've seen. Like don't put on drywall unless framing is under 17% moisture.
|
|
|
WILL1E
Moderator
|
# Posted: 28 Sep 2021 11:15am
Reply
@ Nate, yeah i recall your photos. I'm using plywood for everything. I can easily tarp the floor as i have one big enough on it now. The second i get the walls up and sheathing on, i can wrap it to reduce exposed surface area. Just the stuff that goes through my head as i wait to get things started this weekend.
|
|
ICC
Member
|
# Posted: 28 Sep 2021 02:55pm - Edited by: ICC
Reply
There's no "usual" or preference, other than using the header span guides in the code book. (Chapter 6 in IRC; should be something similar in WI code book).
Exterior load-bearing walls (table R602.7(1) Header size depends on width of the building, how much house is above in that wall (1 floor, 2 floor, attic only....), how wide the window or door opening is and the snow load. Figures given are for certain common species and grade) Plus the table lists how many jack studs as that varies with size of the opening and the loads. Sometimes as many as 4 jack studs.
OK, I do have a preference. That is to use a single 2x, maybe a 2x10 or 2x12 in place of two smaller 2x's. That is to remove wood thickness with its lower R-value and increase the foam board insulation thickness and R-value.
If stuffing batt insulation into spaces, keep in mind that stuffing in more batt insulation decreases the R-value. Compressing batt insulations reduces the effective R-value. There are online resources for that info. We used XPS foam board in headers both as a spacer between two 2x and for the insulation in a header.
If we could use a single 2x as a header it was placed to the inside to provide fastening space for interior trim, draperies, etc. That is, a single 2x to the inside is better for thermal performance, but a single to the outside can be better structurally. But either way meets code if sizing is correct.
And speaking of that, IF one can think and plan far enough ahead it can be advantageous to install horizontal boards in the wall studs where cabinets may be installed (kitchens, baths, etc.) Having boards in the wall framing like that makes hanging cabinets a joy rather than a job.
************
Notching cripples is a waste of your time. Period.
|
|
snobdds
Member
|
# Posted: 28 Sep 2021 04:01pm
Reply
I don't use less than a 2x8 for a header, most times a 2x12 because of Wyoming snow loads. I cut mine 6 inches longer and use an extra cripple in the rough opening to give me some play for windows and doors.
If 2x4 construction, I just use 2 2x materia and a sheet of 1/2 plywood sandwiched.
If 2x6 construction, I use 2 2x material and a 2 1/2 sheet of foam, all glued and screwed.
|
|
toyota_mdt_tech
Member
|
# Posted: 28 Sep 2021 08:13pm
Reply
I use either 2X6 X2 with a chunk of 1/2" plywood between, having the header flush with stud walls makes it nice for securing sheeting on the inside or siding on the outside. I used 4X6 doug fir for my cabin, perfect fit. Surplus, I made a nice mantle for my fireplace.
|
|
Upper
Member
|
# Posted: 29 Sep 2021 11:10am
Reply
Having a sawmill I can cut 6x material. How much am I loosing in not being able to insulate?
|
|
Shadyacres
Member
|
# Posted: 29 Sep 2021 12:34pm
Reply
I'm used to using 2 x6 or 2x8 or 2x10 depending on length plus plywood and sometimes styrofoam to help insulate depending on thickness of walls.
|
|
NorthRick
Member
|
# Posted: 29 Sep 2021 05:49pm
Reply
Like others have posted, 2x on the outside, 2 1/2" of foamboard in the middle, and 2x on the inside. I made mine ahead of time at home and then hauled them out to the cabin.
|
|
|
