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WILL1E
Moderator
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# Posted: 21 Sep 2021 11:28am
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I'm being optimistic that the cabin build goes well enough that i can get the windows installed before snow flies so that they aren't sitting in storage any longer than needed. The plan is to get the walls up and sheathed and wrapped, then roof up and sheathed, underlayment and steel.
The windows are new construction windows with the nail flange. The question is, if i install the windows and use flashing tape in the sill and over side and upper nail flange, can it sit all winter without siding? Same question would apply for the main door as i'll need to use that to get inside once the walls go up.
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snobdds
Member
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# Posted: 21 Sep 2021 01:03pm
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Of course they can...
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Nate R
Member
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# Posted: 21 Sep 2021 01:22pm - Edited by: Nate R
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My door was fine for a year.
I'm doing the same this winter for my windows and doors. I think the biggest risk is degradation of the housewrap if it gets too much UV over too long. I looked into that a LOT for mine, and am comfortable with my plan to side next spring/summer.
I'd highly recommend the 3M 8067 flashing tape after using it and other cheaper tapes..and some more expensive. Seems to be a good combo of quality and price, and can be applied in any temp. (0-150F)
If it gets cold, just need to make sure you use silicone that can set in cold weather. IIRC, OSI Quad can do ~20 deg F.
-Nate
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WILL1E
Moderator
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# Posted: 21 Sep 2021 01:45pm
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Yeah i was worried about the flashing tape vs. house wrap.
Did you buy that 3M stuff locally or online?
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Nate R
Member
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# Posted: 21 Sep 2021 02:10pm
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3M stuff I got on Amazon. I used 4" on the window flanges. Could probably get away with 3" if you had to there.
-Nate
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gcrank1
Member
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# Posted: 21 Sep 2021 02:30pm
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Use the best product and wide, flashing is no place to scrimp.
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travellerw
Member
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# Posted: 21 Sep 2021 05:33pm
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My brother has a garage that has sat for 3 seasons with just house wrap and flashing.. I can't see any degredation in it at this point. He does plan to re-wrap some day when he actually does the siding though.
As to flashing.. Blueskin Butyl is what I got recommended up here. I was surprised how affordable it was. Worked amazing and is super sticky.
Remember, if you are doing flashing tape you don't do an X or and I cut in your wrap. You cut the wrap to the window opening and DON'T wrap any in. Set the window with good caulk and tons of nails, then flash (sides first, then top... NOTHING on the bottom flange). Its also common up here to cut the cripples on a 2 deg slant to make sure the sill is sloped outward.
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ICC
Member
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# Posted: 21 Sep 2021 06:27pm
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Grace Vycor were the first flashing membranes we used "way back". They are still a leader and their website has all the installation directions you need. Do a search and look 'em up. Even if you used a different brand their installation info is first rate.
Very good idea to trim the cripples to provide an outward slant to the bottom sill for the window framing.
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Brettny
Member
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# Posted: 21 Sep 2021 08:15pm
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For odd corners get a roll of the stretchable flashing tape..be sitting down when you get the price though.
What type of house wrap are you useing?
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WILL1E
Moderator
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# Posted: 22 Sep 2021 08:11am
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Quoting: travellerw Remember, if you are doing flashing tape you don't do an X or and I cut in your wrap. You cut the wrap to the window opening and DON'T wrap any in. Set the window with good caulk and tons of nails, then flash (sides first, then top... NOTHING on the bottom flange). Its also common up here to cut the cripples on a 2 deg slant to make sure the sill is sloped outward.
I replaced a patio door and a window on my house recently and I flashed the sill with the tape, then set the window as you said. The housewrap was already cut, but i had not heard that you should trim it flush with the RO.
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WILL1E
Moderator
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# Posted: 22 Sep 2021 08:12am
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Quoting: Brettny What type of house wrap are you useing?
Either Typar from Menards or Tyvek from Home Depot.
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Nate R
Member
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# Posted: 22 Sep 2021 08:32am
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I would NOT trim it flush with the RO.
I bought Joe Lstiburek's "Water Management Guide" and followed his details on how to install/detail a flanged window in my wall assembly. Joe and Building Science Corporation are leaders in the building science world. They make a living on seeing what works, and finding root cause of failures in the field.
https://www.buildingscience.com/bookstore/ebook/ebook-water-management-guide
I used Typar because it has a longer approved exposure time, and is around 12 perms in breathability. Joe has written that the "perfect" WRB should be in the 10-20 range. Tyvek is something like 57.
Willie, I have about 30+ feet of 10 inch Zip stretch tape left over. (I had to buy a 75 foot roll.... about $250!) Let me know if you're interested in it for a good price. Even if it's not enough for all your openings, the most exposed ones might benefit from it. (Like gable ends, etc).
-Nate
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WILL1E
Moderator
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# Posted: 22 Sep 2021 08:45am
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Nate, didn't you use 3M for all your flashing?
I'd probably be interested in the tape and the book if you're interested in selling that as well.
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travellerw
Member
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# Posted: 22 Sep 2021 09:09am
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Seems like there is an opinion about everything.. However to me, it makes sense to never bring a moisture path inside.
Up here this is how windows are done. An inspector won't pass anything else.
These 2 do a great job explaining it and the why of it!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RLlOw36KesQ
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ICC
Member
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# Posted: 22 Sep 2021 09:10am
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Bang on! They actually build test structures and meter and measure how things work, or don't. Improving construction with science!
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Nate R
Member
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# Posted: 22 Sep 2021 10:27am - Edited by: Nate R
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Willie: I bought the ebook version of that book. Downloadable, watermarked PDF. I think it's $18. Well worth it.
I used the 3M tape on the outside of the flanges, on my sheathing seams, etc. But covering my sills, I used the ZIP Stretch tape. I got 10" wide stuff to be able to cover the ENTIRE 2x6 face and sheathing, and wrap down around the front. The stretchiness makes it SO much easier to go around the corner with no seams!
In the pic below, you can see the 3M tape on the sides, (it's on the top under the housewrap flap, too), and you can see the black ZIP tape sticking out from the bottom, under the window.
I'll set the tape aside next time I'm up there. It's heavy.... The full 75 ft box weighed 20 lbs. Anyway, I can leave it out for you sometime soon if you want to stop by, or I can meet you when I'm up there... whatever works.
travellerw : Interesting! I guess I lied....I followed a combo of what the book said from BSC, and Marvin's instructions for their windows: https://www3.marvin.com/WebDoc/Window%20Rough%20Opening%20Prep%20and%20Flashing%20199 13776.pdf
They use something similar to the youtube video....you wrap the housewrap into the framing on the sides, but only partially...and then tape that edge. So it solves the problems they mentioned in the video.
Also, Marvin RECOMMENDS using screws instead of nails as a tip! MUCH easier to control things on the flange...and not slip with the hammer and hit the window frame. 
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