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Brettny
Member
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# Posted: 16 Sep 2021 02:15pm
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Or you could use this method.
https://youtu.be/DJ6udOkg1eE
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travellerw
Member
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# Posted: 16 Sep 2021 02:29pm
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You will need to use a method like Brettny posted. I weighed my trusses and they were 85 pounds and its all at the top. You will need to control them from the top as there was NO WAY I could control them from the lower cords (even with 2 people if there was wind).
So the whole nail em in while the top is jiggling, wiggling and trying to flop over with the other non-nailed side sliding along the top plate will be near impossible by yourself. I'm talking from experience as I just did it.. It took 2 people and we had to create a false platform to stand on so we could hold the trusses at the joint between the upper and the lower. We did 1/2 this way and then switched to the picker truck (which was AWESOME).
Again.. Everything is doable.. but it just adds time.
As to the cold, we have already had frost here.. I can tell you its no fun standing on a frosty top plate slipping and sliding at 12ft high with no fall arrest equipment.
I'm not trying to be a negative nelly.. I hoping to help you succeed. If you can rent equipment, don't be cheap (like I was) and do it. It will make things faster and safer. I swear you will thank yourself for it!
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gwindhurst
Member
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# Posted: 16 Sep 2021 05:38pm
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Quoting: Steve_S There are certainly many things you can prebuild or cut in prep but a few things like your roof rafter assembly, I would not...
My two cents as this is exactly what I did do... I pre-cut my entire structure (sections at a time) and I was dried in in three long weekends (mostly by myself). You can see my floor joist and roof rafters assembled in my backyard at home before I disassembled and transported 200 miles north of my home here https://www.small-cabin.com/forum/6_9681_0.html
When it came to the walls I marked out all studs, jacks etc on my plates, pre-cut same to match layout, pre-cut window/door headers, jacks, cripples etc and bundled into "pre-cut-kits"...
I also built my power/woodshed in the same manner.
Pre-fit at home
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Powershed in my backyard
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Powershed complete in VT
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Brettny
Member
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# Posted: 17 Sep 2021 07:30am
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Nice shed Gwind!
As to the roof in the winter. The best (and only good time) I have had doing roofing was when I had to shovel the snow off the tarp covering the tar paper. It was nice and cold. I have done far to many roofs in 95* heat when there no shade and you had to get off the roof by 10am.
At night in the dark of the winter is by far my favorite time to roof. No bugs, no heat, work as fast as you want and no sweat.
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WILL1E
Moderator
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# Posted: 17 Sep 2021 07:38am
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Since we're on the topic of roofs...What's the best way to protect the plywood sheathing for a week or two or three? I plan on doing a steel roof and was going to use 30# felt paper. However, i'm thinking i should wait to order the steel until the roof is done so that i can have it cut to length and i don't have to do that.
Is tarping the best option? Or is there something better than 30# paper that i could use as my barrier that is better suited for sitting uncovered for a couple weeks while i wait for the steel?
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Brettny
Member
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# Posted: 17 Sep 2021 10:13am
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Use the metal roof underlayment as the protection for a week or two.
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gwindhurst
Member
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# Posted: 17 Sep 2021 11:27am - Edited by: gwindhurst
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I ordered in stock steel roofing and cut to length myself with a 7-1/4" Diablo Steel Demon circular saw blade made for Ferrous Metals. I stacked, cut and pre-drilled (for screws) 6-8 sheets at a time. Warning! It's loud, and throws a lot of steel-saw-dust! Gloves and Eye protection is a MUST! I researched the blade on YT, It's amazing what that blade can do...
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WILL1E
Moderator
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# Posted: 17 Sep 2021 12:49pm
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Did you do anything to the cut edge to prevent rusting after you cut it?
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gwindhurst
Member
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# Posted: 17 Sep 2021 03:09pm
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Quoting: WILL1E Did you do anything to the cut edge to prevent rusting after you cut it?
I did not, it’s galvanized. Also, I put the cut edge at the ridge under ridge-cap, and factory edge exposed at rafter tail/fascia.
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