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WILL1E
Moderator
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# Posted: 9 Jul 2021 08:32am
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With a 5"x8" 4-sided milled log constructed cabin, the edges of the subfloor will be exposed since there will be no sheathing and the logs will be stacked on top of the subfloor. I planned to use PT lumber for the rim board, however i need to protect the edges of the subfloor.
I'm thinking some sort of "L" shaped metal trim should go down on the subfloor edges around the perimeter before i stack the first layer of logs. Looking through Menards website, looks like "roof edging" might be my best bet. I also saw fascia trim which might be nicer looking as i could get it long enough to cover the rim boards as well.
Is this the best way to approach this or is there a more common way of doing this? I thought about going a roll of trim coil to minimize the seams, but wasn't sure how nice and tight i could bend the edges over the subfloor.
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Brettny
Member
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# Posted: 9 Jul 2021 09:41am
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I would saw cut the bottom of your first log so it will accept a vertical piece of metal flashing. Also make the first log over hang the subfloor a bit.
Do you plan on skirting the under side? If so this is the time to plan that too. The metal flashing could be bent in a fashion to shed water along with leave room for the skirting material of your choice. Attempting to do this later means alot of work or relying on sealants for water proofing.
Even with vinyl siding you can tell when the installer didnt have acess to a siding brake. I wouldnt expect to find the specific metal flashing your looking for at a big box store if it has any bends in it. Really your best bet is prob a under side saw cut and to use coil stock with no bends exct at the corners.
But for refrence these are profiles for metal pannels. They are nice and thick and could be used for your needs.
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WILL1E
Moderator
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# Posted: 9 Jul 2021 10:16am
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Wasn't planning on any skirting.
I like your idea of a slight overhang. I could then take my Dremel multi saw and use the edge of the subfloor/rim board as a guide to put a nice thin slit into the bottom side of the log for the coil stock to slide up into!
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NorthRick
Member
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# Posted: 9 Jul 2021 01:29pm
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Yeah, I was going to say to lay the log wall so that it overhangs the edge of the subfloor by a 1/2 or 3/4 of and inch.
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toyota_mdt_tech
Member
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# Posted: 10 Jul 2021 11:14am - Edited by: toyota_mdt_tech
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Quoting: WILL1E With a 5"x8" 4-sided milled log constructed cabin, the edges of the subfloor will be exposed since there will be no sheathing and the logs will be stacked on top of the subfloor.
WILL1E, you have several better options. The sill plate on top of the stemwall of course, then the metal hanging floor joist hangers attached to this sill plate (they wrap over the top of sill plate and secure on top of sillplate). This puts your joist level with sill plate. Another option is to form a ledge in the stemwall with concrete or build a small short studwall using treated limber off the footer to hold floor joist just below grade. It will keep floor lower besides, save rim joist and not make for an ugly transition from foundation to log. A chunk of flashing to protect the end of the floor sheeting or you can have first log set right on sill plate, but fitting floor sheeting will require scribing at the end which isnt the end of the world.
This is the way the LHBA does it. Keep the heavy wall logs right on the foundation too.
So 3 different ways to set flooring at stemwall level.
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ICC
Member
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# Posted: 11 Jul 2021 08:49am
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toyota_mdt_tech, what stemwall? I will admit to not reading every post nor every topic, but I thought this was a pier and beam project. Hopefully I am wrong.
When this project was first proposed I thought it was using 4x6 "logs". Now I see 5x8. Just off the the top of my head the solid 5x8 walls have to weigh somewhere between 4 and 6 times as much as convntional stick construction. That's a guess. That's roughly taking into account this log wall does not have extrrior sheathing nor interior sheetrock or boards.
That seems to me to be much more weight than what is practical for pier and beam. A poured concrete or concrete block stemwall with the appropriate full perimeter footing is what is really needed, IMO.
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toyota_mdt_tech
Member
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# Posted: 11 Jul 2021 01:50pm - Edited by: toyota_mdt_tech
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Quoting: ICC toyota_mdt_tech, what stemwall? I will admit to not reading every post nor every topic, but I thought this was a pier and beam project. Hopefully I am wrong.
I didnt see anything in his post in this thread of a post and beam, was assuming regular footing/stemwall. 
OK, well, my prior comment is for footing stemwall. 
WILL1E, didnt you get a tractor? Do a digout, just scrape out an area larger than cabin footprint, do full footer/stemwall, much less labor if you can get that equipment in there and a cement truck and much less chances of mice getting into floor insulation. I put my crawlspace access inside)
I'm with ICC, do the footer stemwall
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WILL1E
Moderator
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# Posted: 12 Jul 2021 08:32am
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ICC you are correct, it was 4x6 logs but when we decided to go up to a 16x30 vs 16x20, the Amish suggest going up to a larger 5x8 log.
The logs are white pine and weigh about 65lbs per 8ft section. A solid log wall that's 30' long and 16 courses high (basically 10') will weigh around 4100lbs. Based on some goggle'ing, looks like Exterior Stud Walls: 2x6 16" O.C., 5/8" Gypsum, Insulated, 3/8" Siding weigh 12lbs/sqft which would be 3600lbs for the same wall. So logs are going to weigh 13% more than stick framed.
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gcrank1
Member
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# Posted: 12 Jul 2021 10:26am
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Imo, you will need so many piers, well done, that you might as well do the foundation and be for sure and certain it aint ever going to be an issue.
The kicker is reading the many threads here that have to do with what have become inadequate cabin 'supports'.......
Overkill on the bottom will never bite you in the butt.
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WILL1E
Moderator
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# Posted: 12 Jul 2021 01:10pm
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Post and pier is something i can do therefor that's the option i need to move forward with. If i need to bulk something up to minimize any risk than i can do that.
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NorthRick
Member
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# Posted: 12 Jul 2021 01:22pm - Edited by: NorthRick
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Properly done, post and beam will be fine. A solid wood wall is one giant beam.
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WILL1E
Moderator
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# Posted: 13 Jul 2021 08:12am
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gcrank1 my plan is 3 built up beams with each one having 5 piers. I'm estimating just those parts costing around $1500. To do concrete walls i'm guessing that would be double or triple that.
Thanks NorthRick
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gcrank1
Member
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# Posted: 13 Jul 2021 08:47am
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Ohhh, I had no idea footings and a stub wall would cost that much if you could do the dirt work. 
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WILL1E
Moderator
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# Posted: 13 Jul 2021 08:52am
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I'll ask my neighbor who does concrete work what he would charge. I know he's pouring frost walls (not sure how that differs than footings/stubwall) for his new shop and his brothers shop down the road from me.
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