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paulz
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# Posted: 15 Jun 2021 10:20pm
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I'm planning to build a similar structure for a car port. I was thinking to bolt the diagonal braces on the outside but this looks much nicer, plus if I ever sheathed the outside they wouldn't be in the way. How would these be attached?
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lburners
Member
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# Posted: 15 Jun 2021 11:14pm
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How about those 8" spax screws.
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gcrank1
Member
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# Posted: 16 Jun 2021 12:03am
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Mortise and tenon as in traditional post and beam construction. They would get pegged but the compression actually holds it together.
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Brettny
Member
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# Posted: 16 Jun 2021 05:34am
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You can still bolt it together like that. This is how I built my car port. I have a 24in long 1/2in drill. A paddle bit wont do it. Spax would also work easier like burners said.
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Aklogcabin
Member
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# Posted: 16 Jun 2021 10:29am
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Timberlock screws
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gcrank1
Member
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# Posted: 16 Jun 2021 10:57am
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If screwing down, and wanting some structural strength for all the trouble rather than mostly just a 'look', Id cut a crosswise notch into the post and the top rail for the ends of the diagonals to 'lock into', then screw to secure.
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paulz
Member
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# Posted: 16 Jun 2021 06:12pm
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Yes I did see another one that had about 1" deep notches for the diagonals to sit in. That, and the screws would do it.
Thanks for the suggestions. I'm just now excavating the site so it will be awhile.
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 17 Jun 2021 07:57am - Edited by: toyota_mdt_tech
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Quoting: paulz How would these be attached?
Paul, I used 10" timberlock or ledger lock screws, I used 2 at each end. The 2 I put at different angles to replicate a toe nail, just one, it could flex or allow some movement. 2 in a staggered pattern tightened it up rock solid. I have lots of weight overhead and log uprights are just setting on pads (anchored for lift, but still a "hinge" affect) and was worried the structure would be wobbly as I added weight.
Its absolutely rock solid with no movement at all.
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paulz
Member
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# Posted: 17 Jun 2021 12:43pm
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Man that looks fantastic.
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ICC
Member
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# Posted: 17 Jun 2021 02:25pm - Edited by: ICC
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A mortise and tenon as mentioned by gcrank1 is the traditional timber framing method. Even without the pegs they are about as strong as you are going to get. More work, yes.
Also very nice is this simpler system. Sown in link below, first drawing. Cannot hotlink to FF images.
This is still better than just relying on screws. The brace is fitted into the notches. The mechanical fasteners more or less just hold the knee brace in place and the wood brace supplies the strength.
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=7436.0
"toe-nailed" timberlock or headlock screws would be good.
I have sometimes drilled flats into the brace with Forstner bits rather than make a shelf cut. That is best done in a drill press though. Looks nocer than a cut out notch.
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paulz
Member
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# Posted: 27 Jun 2021 10:57am
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Trying to decide on the size of these diagonal braces as they will influence post location. Don't suppose there is any rule of thumb related to post height?
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Brettny
Member
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# Posted: 27 Jun 2021 02:47pm
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I would put them low enough but not so low that your going to hit your head.
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ICC
Member
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# Posted: 27 Jun 2021 05:19pm
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As the drawings in the forestry forum link I posted to this thread earlier shows, 36" is what is commonly used in timber frames.
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paulz
Member
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# Posted: 28 Jun 2021 09:48am
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That's what I have on the right in the photo above and looks about right. I'm going for a 10' height, might go a bit longer. Thanks!
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