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WILL1E
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# Posted: 30 Apr 2021 10:26am
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I've found a source locally that provides 4x6 white pine logs that are T&G grooved for a reasonable price. Now a log cabin isn't something i had considered up to this point, therefor I have some questions regarding log cabin construction and the pros/cons to having one as a cabin.
1. Has anyone built one using logs like i've mentioned where they are stacked using a T&G method? I've tried looking up Youtube videos and such but haven't had much luck. So i'm not sure if i should be searching something specific or how/where to find more info on that style of building.
2. This might get answered w/ #1 above, but i'd be interested in knowing if a post and pier foundation would have to be constructed differently for a structure like this vs. traditional stick frame?
3. How does the insulative value of a log cabin like this compare to that of a traditional stick framed 2x6 cabin with insulation in the walls? I've heard people say they take longer to warm up, but what about maintaining.
This should be a good start for questions right now.
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scott100
Member
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# Posted: 30 Apr 2021 10:24pm - Edited by: scott100
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Yes and no. Ours is built with 4 x 6 square cut t&g (or something like that) pine logs. We did not build it ourselves. It was built to my drawings by Lancaster Log Cabins.
https://lancasterlogcabins.com/
It is built on a 4 axle trailer so it can be moved, and was hauled a couple hundred miles to our place. I blocked up and leveled the trailer so can't help you with your foundation questions.
Concerning r value, solid wood is only r1 per inch. That said, there is a lot of mass that helps regulate indoor temps. Far more of an effect than I would have imagined. We only use the place 3 seasons and heat with a wood stove so not sure how it would fare in mid winter. Love the aesthetics, though.
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scott100
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# Posted: 30 Apr 2021 11:06pm
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A couple of pics attached of their corner layup method and a couple of pics of our place.
stack2.jpg
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stack1.jpg
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cabin.jpg
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cabin1.jpg
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Aklogcabin
Member
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# Posted: 2 May 2021 08:14am - Edited by: Aklogcabin
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Yes I have built a log house that used a 3/4"x1-1/2" board as a guide per say. The logs also had another groove to put insulation in on each side of that. Pretty good system. That house was on block foundation.
Our 16x24, 3 sided log cabin is on a pier foundation. Actually cedar utility poles. Working great. Log structures can be heavy so I on the sides i put in 5 posts at 6' on center . The cedar poles are probably near 16" at the base. I wrapped felt paper around my piers n backfilled with guickset premix cement. Drilled holds for pilings with a rented gas driven post hole digger.
I lost some pictures that were better of the foundation but maybe this will give you an idea.
Hey you're doing great man !
Couple weeks ago
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Last fall
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Last fall
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Side view
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Aklogcabin
Member
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# Posted: 2 May 2021 08:51am
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Hello all, on the foundation. You can see where I notched the top shoulder of the post n bolted 6x12" beams. This worked very well. Put posts in. Snap level line for floor n cut off posts for a level floor. Lay in the support beams n bolt them in with 1/2" galvanized bolts.
Because we have so many earthquakes im going to drill holes into the pilings on top n bottom n cross brace using steel cable n turnbuckles. No problems yet but it seems like a good thing. We have had several trees nearby tip in the last 7.4 quake we had last year.
With logs on foundation they spread out their weight over a long distance n tend to lock together, kinda like locking your fingers together.
Construction goes fast. I would recommend timberlock screws to fasten them together.
Insulation, yes wood has a low r value per inch. But once you have the mass heated up the bar goes the other way. Heck we've been using ours for 7 years or so and I haven't even chinked the seams yet. Our floor isn't insulated yet either. My bad. Couple throw rugs are working for now. I can get our cabin heated up pretty quickly. Never been a problem really.
I've even got the insulation for the cabin floor in the crawl space of our home.
On maintenance. I'm going to pressure wash the cabin some day soon. That will make those logs look like new. Let it dry up a bit n chink it. Top coat with a log oil. Applied with a sprayer. There's some pretty durable stuff on the market these days.
I also feel the astetics make a difference. We wanted log so we did log. But I feel sale ability and value are higher. At least in our neighborhood.
Have fun n stay positive
Upstairs
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Living room
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Kitchen
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Front
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Aklogcabin
Member
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# Posted: 2 May 2021 09:05am
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Hey scott that looks real nice. Looks like a great place to make great memories
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Steve_S
Member
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# Posted: 2 May 2021 09:57am
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@Scott100 all I can say is WOW ! That is one gorgeous setup. I'd hate to think what that Trailer weighs, certainly not something you want to drag around much, I'd wager.
Around here it is very common to see Log Homes being built with various methods. What has become quite popular though is Cordwood/Stackwall construction but then in my region we have Cordwood Barns & Building that have stood for over a century so it is not an uncommon sight.
Recently two companies (Mills) started selling 4x6 & 6x6 Milled logs for the builder's out here and they offer a few different profiles and cuts (with keyways) for a person to choose from. WISH That was available 5 years ago ! But I'm very happy with my Live Edge Cedar siding.
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scott100
Member
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# Posted: 2 May 2021 10:01am - Edited by: scott100
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Ak, yours too Really nice work and I'm sure a labor of love. We don't need the bear gun where ours is though. Our black bears are pretty skittish. ðŸ˜
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morock
Member
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# Posted: 2 May 2021 10:11am
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Like anything there are pro’s and con’s. Love the look, quick to put together. Does take a lot longer to warm up, but is cool in summer. We did metal piers because we are on clay, big mistake. The t&g doesn’t lock the logs tight ( yes, timber locks…lots), so the building shakes. You wouldn’t notice with a foundation but on elevated piers you do. You need to do slip joints for all the doors and windows too to accommodate any shrinkage. Yes the price is right. My quick 0.02$
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scott100
Member
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# Posted: 2 May 2021 10:13am
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Yeah Steve,. I'm not towing that anywhere myself. Mainly did it on wheels to get it through the local inspector (he doesn't care) and so no property tax increase. Also makes it movable in case we ever sell.
I modified one of the company's designs and they built it to my drawings. They did the shell and wiring. I did the interior. It's 14 x 26 with a 14 X10 porch so it needed permits and a chase car to move. But they got it down our 1/4 mile driveway and down into the woods on a rainy day. Still have to screen the porch and build steps or ladder up to the loft.
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Steve_S
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# Posted: 2 May 2021 11:17am
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I could see that tipping 10,000lbs easily enough "empty" just the frame & build on it. I would not want to drag that anywhere but damn smart idea on your part and you can move it if needed.
Bugs are OUT in full fore here now... Screens are an absolute must IMO. Seems the buggers are getting more ferocious every year. It's bad enough that I have to wear a Bug Suit in the bush right now, of that's miserable to work in.
NOW SCOTT YOU GOT ME PONDERIN !
I happen to have am older 20' dual-axle RV which I tore down to the decking. I had been twiddling with various ideas - mostly something like an open space build with fireplace (lpg) and maybe a small washroom and kitchenette to have as a Guesthouse/Bunkie/Remote office (for GF). So now I am thinking 4x6 Eastern White Cedar using a Butt & Pass build with end-to-end keyways which can be through bolted to the trailer I-Beams & C-Channel framing, We have heaps of that cedar here and being bug/rodent resistant & lighter than Pines or other, should work out quite nicely. Now I have to take a run-up to see Dan at the Mill. Being on a Trailer like that I'd really only have to insulate the floor & roof and by using Cedar a fair bit lighter as well, and eliminating a pile of insulation too. Guess I'll be taking some more measurements this afternoon and pondering this.
I mentioned Fireplace. It's an odd oopsie in a way. I bought the LPG fireplace for my cabin but decided to install a wood burner instead. The shape (triangular) & type that it is (direct vent out the top) , would fit in the front over the tongue extension very nicely and save floor space too. Would just have to use Mag-O Board around it.
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scott100
Member
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# Posted: 2 May 2021 12:06pm - Edited by: scott100
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According to the paperwork (it's certified as a park model rv home) shipping wt was 18k with a GVWR of 24k. So a little heavy for my old expedition to tow.
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Steve_S
Member
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# Posted: 2 May 2021 12:32pm
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Holy Macaroni ! That is one Heavy Haul ! The expedition would die trying to haul that... Even so, I bet that trailer had to groan a bit when it was moving...
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WILL1E
Moderator
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# Posted: 4 May 2021 08:04am
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@Scott100 Any idea what they did between the log layers to provide a seal? I can't seem to find much info on these 4x6" constructed log cabins.
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scott100
Member
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# Posted: 4 May 2021 03:38pm
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Not sure. I seem to remember seeing some kind of gray tape on one of their displays bit not sure if it was foam tape or something different. I do know our place is surprisingly tight, so whatever they did works.
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scott100
Member
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# Posted: 4 May 2021 04:08pm
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Check out a product like Emseal log tape.
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scott100
Member
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# Posted: 4 May 2021 04:21pm - Edited by: scott100
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Duplicate post
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WILL1E
Moderator
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# Posted: 5 May 2021 08:57am
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Well the log cabin idea is looking better and better the more i talk with the log guy. He gave me a price for a 16x30 using 5x8" T&G logs and there's no way i could stick frame, insulate, sheath and apply siding for what his price is.
If i build a post and pier foundation with my floor joist and decking on top of that, i'm struggling to understand how to properly protect the edges of the subfloor around the perimeter of the rim joist. These logs are flat on both sides, so if i make the exterior flush with the rim joist/sub floor, water will run down the face of the logs and over the edge of the subfloor. Moving the logs slightly outward might help a little but i still suspect it would run down it via capillary action.
So, would i use some sort of flashing to protect the rim perimeter before i start putting logs down?
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Nobadays
Member
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# Posted: 5 May 2021 10:08am
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Quoting: WILL1E So, would i use some sort of flashing to protect the rim perimeter before i start putting logs down?
I would... a good question for your log supplier. Our cabin is built with D-Logs and sort of a tongue and groove. Pretty sure they used a sealant between the logs, and judging by the winter drafts not nearly enough! My SIL used both sealant and foam straps, also caulking the logs more for effect.
Here is a picture of the starter row log on our cabin... no flashing but they have always kept the logs and sub floor plywood edges well sealed. I would have flashed it. The logs are about 3/4" - 1" overhanging.
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Aklogcabin
Member
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# Posted: 5 May 2021 10:17am
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Your roof overhang will protect that but you can put a trim board around there if wanted. Bevel the top edge n caulk. When topcoated it will blend in with the rest of the cabin.
I like acoustic caulk. Otherwise know as black death to some for caulking between the logs wear glovesbecausegettingit off yourskin is why it got its nickname. It will never harden n it will seal between the logs remaining payable. Its kinda like tar in a tube but doesn't get hard.
I use this type of caulking under exterior walls when standing a new wall. And also to seal the bottom edges of the vapor barrier.
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Aklogcabin
Member
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# Posted: 5 May 2021 10:23am
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We like the looks of a log cabin but having it harder for a bear to get in was also a consideration.
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WILL1E
Moderator
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# Posted: 5 May 2021 01:08pm
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I'm thinking about Shou Sugi Ban'ing the exterior, so i think the metal flashing plus sealant below that first log will be the way to go.
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WILL1E
Moderator
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# Posted: 6 May 2021 11:12am
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Trying to think through the roof construction of a log cabin like this. If i use an LVL or Glulam ridge beam to span the 30' long log cabin and rafters that run down to the eave walls, what options do i have for constructing the rakes?
Would i notch the gable logs and last rafter and run 2by outriggers through that?
I've been trying to find some good photos that show how this is done on a log cabin that uses traditional ridge beam and rafters. All the photos i have found show several logs spanning the full length of the cabin and then a roofing system built on top of that. I don't want to do that.
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