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Simonfredette
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# Posted: 15 Apr 2021 07:13pm
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I found on another thread a link to town and country plans where I found this http://www.townandcountryplans.com/lakehouse.html
This is along what we are looking to build, we were looking at the beaver homes yellow tail 1 but you need to buy the materials to get the plans (50K$). If I go with my own plans for permitting I could use a set like these as a base, I dont need interior walls etc. The only problem is this one calls for a crawlspace, I was planning on having my joists over 3 beams, especially if I push this to 16 wide, with 3 beams im only 8 feet unsupported so I could get away with 2x8 16 OC ? Can this plan be adapter to sonotubes, why do they say crawlspace only
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 15 Apr 2021 07:19pm
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I bought their plans and with some white out, just made some adjustments. The building dept will accept them if it meets specs. They will review, pencil in changes. If you remove some interior walls, you may have to go to a larger rafter tie etc.
You dont need the full crawlspace foundation, I did it on mine, it was way easier on my end, and I now have no mice access, no fire to craw under it and I put my access door in my floor so I also have secure storage too.
I think a 2X8 on 16" OC will almost do 12 feet
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Simonfredette
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# Posted: 15 Apr 2021 08:22pm
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ya, were going to be up on a ridge with limited access and no power and water etc, a pier or sonotube foundation will just be easier, but in an ideal world, yes I too would prefer a crawlspace, if nothing else you lose less heat. It doesnt look like their interior walls are supporting the roof at all but either way I would still have some just a smaller bath and the kitchen would be closed off and made into a bedroom. These plans for 35$ would just save me a lot of research as far as framing, roof etc.
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ICC
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# Posted: 15 Apr 2021 09:07pm
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1. Check on foundation requirements with the department that issues the building permit. Soe locales will not approve a pier and beam foundation. Depends...
2. Just because the sales website states their plans are "suitable for submitting to your local building department" does not mean your building permit department will accept them.
3. Depending on species and grade 2x6 floor joists can span about 9 feet. 2x8 joists would result in a stiffer floor with more insulation space. Have a look at the AWC span calculator if you have not seen it before. Enter the data fields and it does some math for you. That link gives you the choice of older or newer version; the newer one used the recently adjusted values for some species that have been downgraded due to some newer plantation-grown lumber not being as stiff, as strong as the older. That is a US calc, but Canada should be using similar values.
4. There are minimum room sizes, widths, etc that apply to all habitable rooms, bathrooms included, so check that out with your building department too. They may or may not follow the codebook closely. Adherence to the published code can vary a lot, which is one reason I say that your building department may or may not accept the plans you linked to.
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ICC
Member
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# Posted: 15 Apr 2021 09:33pm
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5. If you increase the width the AWC calculator can also span check the rafter sizes.
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Simonfredette
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# Posted: 15 Apr 2021 09:38pm
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We are working with a building inspector, we will be on top of a ridge made mainly of canadian shield which is essentially a ridge made of bedrock. We will have little choice other than piers based on this and access. With three beams ( what are the size req for beams ) we would only span 7f so 2x6 by 14 at 16 oc would be a huge $ saver. We also have the local requirements book for building "tiny", we could go as small as 145 sq ft .
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Brettny
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# Posted: 16 Apr 2021 09:12am
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No one ever wished for a less solid floor. Use something taller than 2x6 for a 7ft span.
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Simonfredette
Member
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# Posted: 16 Apr 2021 09:20am
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Thanks, i wondered why we never see it. Nothing wrong with going over minimum allowable. I wouldn't mind it on the deck but the cabin 8s would be better
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