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medic149
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# Posted: 28 Mar 2021 10:07am
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Looking for some advice.
Our 20x16 cabin has 8" wide plank flooring over the joists. We would like to install tongue and groove plank flooring that is finished.
From what I've read, I need to put down 3/4" plywood over the current plank flooring and then 3/4" tongue and groove flooring. Problem is, there is only 1 to 1 1/4" of exterior door sill above the current plank flooring.
The steel exterior door leads to a covered porch.
I've read that you have to raise the entire door frame, which is beyond my skill.
Any thoughts on how to tackle this? Thinner plywood subfloor since it is going over 8" plank flooring? that might make it flush or close to flush with the door sill.
Looking forward to anyone suggestions.
Thanks,
AJ
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 28 Mar 2021 12:14pm
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Usually a door is rough framed 2 inches wider and 1.5 to 2" taller, so there should be enough room in the rough opening to raise it up, just loosen the casing, elevate it and secure back in place with proper shims etc.
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Irrigation Guy
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# Posted: 28 Mar 2021 12:49pm
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If you have already have a sub floor why the 3/4 plywood?
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Brettny
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# Posted: 28 Mar 2021 01:04pm
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Subfloor because maybe they want to run the young and grove the same way as the subfloor planks? Plywood def holds a nail better than a plank subfloor though.
Raising the door frame is the correct way to do it.
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ICC
Member
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# Posted: 28 Mar 2021 01:54pm
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Quoting: toyota_mdt_tech Usually a door is rough framed 2 inches wider and 1.5 to 2" taller, so there should be enough room in the rough opening to raise it up, just loosen the casing, elevate it and secure back in place with proper shims etc.
I assume we are looking at the exterior door?
Pull the inside trim off and see how much space there is above the top of the frame before anything else so you know if you can raise the hung door with framing.
If there is enough free space then the question is how the exterior is trimmed; how much has to be removed and replaced and how to weather seal. It may not be too easy to do a conventional flashing job, so then you would have to rely on sealants from a tube.
Q? Is the new T&G a hardwood or a softwood? Hardwoods do come in thinner selections. Some of them do at least.
Q? how level is the existing plank floor? Is there much cupping, uneven edges?
Maybe the planks can be sanded if not very level and then 7/16" or 3/8" plywood used. Perhaps even 1/4" underlayment. ???
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medic149
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# Posted: 28 Mar 2021 08:29pm - Edited by: medic149
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Everything I've read says to use a minimum of 1/2" plywood because I will be running the tongue and groove flooring in the same direction as the current pine boards on the floor.
Since the floor planks are in good condition, I am considering 3/8 plywood instead.
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toofewweekends
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# Posted: 29 Mar 2021 06:24pm
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Exterior door, I assume? If the door-raising plan doesn't work, think about a 4x4 foot piece of vinyl where you step in, take off wet boots, and step on to the nice T&G.
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medic149
Member
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# Posted: 29 Mar 2021 06:40pm
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Quoting: toofewweekends Exterior door, I assume? If the door-raising plan doesn't work, think about a 4x4 foot piece of vinyl where you step in, take off wet boots, and step on to the nice T&G.
Thanks! I was actually discussing that idea with my wife last night and that might be a very good option.
Thanks again
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gcrank1
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# Posted: 29 Mar 2021 07:29pm
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Good idea!
Since we have no enclosed entry into home or cabin we are always dealing with how to min. the mess once stepping inside. We have a 'mud rug' at each to save the floor, sacrificial when the time comes.
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