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Katiepony
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# Posted: 27 Jan 2021 03:40pm
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Hi Cabin-Builders!
I'm putting in a small cabin and am using cedar shake/roofing. This is not an insulated cabin, and 100% waterproof is not essential, just FYI.
I've got 2x6 roof rafters, and would like to use 1x3" furring strips to attach my cedar shakes to. I've seen this in old building specs, and like that it will keep the cedar breathing from the back, plus it reduces materials used and also keeps weight down.
Has anyone else done this? Do you feel 1x3" is sufficient? I could go 1x4", but it might just be overkill for no good reason? Also, anyone have any nail gauge suggestions? I see lots of info putting cedar shakes on for siding and also over OSB and weather wrap for roofs, but not a lot on the more rustic/old style application.
I did come accross some interesting info that says that the modern application of cedar shake roofs (with very limited airflow underneath), can cause the roofs to last as few as 15 years. Old methods (like the one I'm doing, allow the shake to dry fully and prolong life. Hoping so! Any kind or helpful thoughts are appreciated!
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gcrank1
Member
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# Posted: 27 Jan 2021 05:23pm - Edited by: gcrank1
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I sure like the look and have heard that done properly is as waterproof as any.
Remember that back in the day a 1x3 was a full 1x3, nowadays thats more like 1 1/2 x 2 5/8. Kinda thin and skinny and the wood quality is poor, after all 'they' think it is just a furring strip not a real piece of lumber. Last thing you want to do is be on the roof doing something and break through!
Maybe see if you can get real wood from an Amish sawmill locally? They would likely know just what you need.
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Katiepony
Member
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# Posted: 27 Jan 2021 05:56pm
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Good point. I have available some rough-cut 1x3s which I’m using as battens. Maybe I should just get more of those. Pretty serious pieces of lumber, for the size!
And I agree—I think, if I do it properly, it will be as waterproof as it should be. Now, to do the job right! 
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Irrigation Guy
Member
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# Posted: 27 Jan 2021 06:36pm
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Where I live on the east end of Long Island, most of the new high end houses use cedar shakes on the roof and for siding. Up until about 20 years ago all the roofs were done just as you are proposing. Then the code changed and the had to sheath with plywood or osb but like you said the shakes need to breath so the still tack 1x3 lath to the plywood then nail the shakes to the lath or use a product called cedar breather so air can move underneath.
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toyota_mdt_tech
Member
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# Posted: 27 Jan 2021 09:10pm
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Yeah, great place for yellow jacket nest and they can end up inside too.
Sheet with plywood, thick 30# felt and then shakes. The shakes breath good as air is moving all around them anyway. They overlap the lower row, so air can move around and under them. And no yellow jackets inside your cabin or cold draft.
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Brettny
Member
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# Posted: 28 Jan 2021 06:20am
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My parents had a shed that had a cedar roof. I think it lasted about 20yrs but leaked for a few years prior. I think the strapping boards should work fine. I would also make sure you use a good thick underlayment. Even if you dont want it to be waterproof you cant add it later
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Nate R
Member
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# Posted: 28 Jan 2021 08:13am
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I don't agree with toyota tech.....Everything I've seen for cedar to last (and modern wood wall siding) says to use a rainscreen type setup. You want a decent gap behind the shingles. This is why products like CedarBreather exist.
Honestly, I'd think 1x3s would be fine, but you'll have to put a lot of them up.....every course, if I'm thinking right?
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Brettny
Member
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# Posted: 28 Jan 2021 12:07pm
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Quoting: Nate R Honestly, I'd think 1x3s would be fine, but you'll have to put a lot of them up.....every course, if I'm thinking right?
Then you may have an issue of your only supporting 3in of a 10-12in shake.
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Nate R
Member
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# Posted: 28 Jan 2021 12:20pm - Edited by: Nate R
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But you're looking at what, a 5" reveal? So you'd have to have one of those every 5 inches...so every shake would have at least 2 under it....
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Aklogcabin
Member
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# Posted: 28 Jan 2021 12:40pm
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I would use the nominal 1x4 from lumber yard. Use aluminum or galvanized roofing nail. Or similar non rusting nail. Do them in 8' lengths on the sawhorses. Enough to get you to the end while your set up. Then you know you have enough to finish and saves time. Install.
You asked about installing shingles. Lots of other good recommendations about what goes under it.
Good luck on your project.
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