<< . 1 . 2 . 3 . |
Author |
Message |
fish_kc79
Member
|
# Posted: 8 Jun 2021 02:11pm
Reply
Someone at HomeDepot told me that was not permitted, but the fact of the matter is, I wouldn't/shouldn't accept that as gospel.
I cannot find any information in the Ontario Building Code on pier-to-beam connections. Piers aren't all that common for homes so the info is pretty sparse. Trying to get some feedback from the building inspector...
My apologies - this has now gone way off topic. On the insulation front, I am leaning towards the spray-foam, but will need to construct things a bit different so I can get at the underside to spray.
|
|
NorthRick
Member
|
# Posted: 9 Jun 2021 01:41am
Reply
Quoting: WILL1E What about drilling into the piers after they are cast and the beams are set and dropping bolts in and concreting them in or something along those lines?
You can do that but it is usually easier to embed the bolts into the concrete while it is still wet. There are various concrete anchor systems (after the concrete has cured) you can get, but they all involve drilling holes in the concrete first. Quite doable but more work.
|
|
WILL1E
Moderator
|
# Posted: 9 Jun 2021 09:43am
Reply
fish_kc79 Are you using sonotubes for your pier forms? Regardless, i wonder if you build up your beams if you could temporarily stage them over your pier forms and square them up enough to get a more dialed in idea of where you put the bolts into the wet concrete.
But honestly, if your joist box is sitting on top of your beams you can probably get away with more slop than you think.
|
|
fish_kc79
Member
|
# Posted: 9 Jun 2021 10:25am
Reply
NorthRick - thank you. I plan on switching gears to use embedded anchor bolts (J-bolts) and adjustable post bases. A bit more expensive, but there is something I didn't really like about the carport saddles.
WILL1E - yes, sonotubes. I could do that but they are 20ft long (3) 2x10". I will probably just use longer 2x4 to help square eveyrthing up. I'm sure it will go fine, I've just never done it before.
Also, I will let you know how the spray foam goes:
My plan is this: My 10x20 cabin floor will be divided into two 10x10 sections, with 2x8" PT joists 16"OC. I will frame them up on my beams, then cover with 1/4" OSB. With some friends, I flip em over, then spray foam to 3" underneath in the joist bays. Then we'll flip back over, connect the two, and cover the entire 10x20 floor with T&G 5/8" for the subfloor, and offset the ply to eliminate the seam in the middle.
|
|
WILL1E
Moderator
|
# Posted: 9 Jun 2021 01:31pm
Reply
Wonder if you could do something other than using the 1/4" OSB to save you some $$$.
|
|
fish_kc79
Member
|
# Posted: 9 Jun 2021 01:55pm
Reply
I agree! Would love to just forgo that and just slap on the 3/4" subfloor but I need more friends or more muscle. In the end, it will at least let me get away with 5/8" final subfloor on top rather than 3/4" and help me eliminate seams.
|
|
<< . 1 . 2 . 3 . |