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mattd
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# Posted: 15 Nov 2020 09:38pm - Edited by: mattd
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My door is leaking at the threshold. Rain hits the door, runs down and comes in. The problem is the threshold is 5/8†tall and my gap is 3/8. So the gasket is smashed and not functioning properly.
I had a steel exterior door, so I just framed the wall to hold that door, not a pre hung. Then made the jamb myself. The jamb needs some attention, but need to solve the threshold prob first.
The threshold simply sits on the floor, and There’s a drip edge under it so the floor isn’t exposed to the elements.
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DaveBell
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# Posted: 16 Nov 2020 06:28am
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Looking at your original build pictures, you put the door on the wrong side of the barn. Putting the door on the end of the barn instead of the side allows the roof to be continued out to form a porch. The porch provides protection from blowing rain, snow drifts against the wall, and a place to sit outside under cover. I say this because moving the door to the end is an option for a better solution.
You could cut open a new door way on the end, centered, install an 8x8 deck for a porch, nail/screw a 2x8x8 above the door way, put two 12' tall PT 4x4's in the ground eight feet out to support the deck and deck roof. Bevel cut the rafter ends a few degrees for slope and mount them to the 2x8x8 with Simpson rafter ties. Plywood, roof felt, 3 sheets of metal roofing, with flashing and caulk next the the barn.
The other option is to install a porch roof above your stairs. The blowing rain and rain splash will be a forever problem even if the door gasket and threshold is fixed.
Because the door was installed on the long side of the barn, there is not enough head clearance to attach a porch roof to the side.
You could try to extend the rafters out to make a covered entry. I don't know if you would have enough head room to go up the stairs.
Please submit any designs before building.
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Brettny
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# Posted: 16 Nov 2020 06:33am
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Any time rain hits around a door the jam has a high probability of leaking or rotting. A storm door can help this. They do sell door sweeps for the bottom of doors
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DaveBell
Moderator
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# Posted: 16 Nov 2020 09:10am
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Quoting: Brettny A storm door can help this
Check his pictures. He cannot use a storm door.
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gcrank1
Member
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# Posted: 16 Nov 2020 11:17am
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The threshold needs to have a bevel facing outward from under the outer edge of the door too, just like window sills. Water running down has to be channeled away from the structure. It may not help much in a blowing storm....but will the rest of the time. Make the bevel generous.
Which way does the door open, in or out? If out it would simplify things. A 'deflector/sweep' could be attached at the front/bottom to direct the water outward toward the bevel rather than letting it curl under at the door bottom edge.
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mattd
Member
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# Posted: 16 Nov 2020 11:41pm
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Here’s a better pic. One problem is the door opens in because of the roof over hang. So the jamb is exposed. I’ve seen some pvc jamb kits, or maybe I can cut down some pressure treated boards.
After a bit of research it dosent look like there are any thresholds that are shorter then mine. I believe it’s 5/8 tall. I need more like 3/8. Maybe I can cut out the floor and set a 1†threshold on top of the joists?
I built the deck to hold a 6’ wide piece of roof over the door. Guess I need to get to that sooner or later.
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Brettny
Member
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# Posted: 17 Nov 2020 06:10am
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No header over the door in that load supporting wall?
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DaveBell
Moderator
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# Posted: 17 Nov 2020 08:02am
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Rotated.
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mattd
Member
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# Posted: 17 Nov 2020 08:07am
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Thanks! Couldn’t figure out how to post it right side up.
King stud, Jack, header. It’s just obscured by the shadow of the roof.
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DaveBell
Moderator
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# Posted: 17 Nov 2020 08:10am
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Cover added to keep rain away from door.
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mattd
Member
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# Posted: 17 Nov 2020 09:12am
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If I have a header on the Existing porch posts, on the left of the pic. And tie into the roof rafters on the other end, would I need posts near cabin? The verticals in your pic.
Alternatively, there’s a loft inside. I could maybe do a load bearing knee wall.
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Brettny
Member
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# Posted: 17 Nov 2020 09:49am
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Generally a overhang like your trying to build is best when the roof rafters are put ontop of the top wall plate. So no post at the cabin wall is needed.
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gcrank1
Member
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# Posted: 17 Nov 2020 10:58am
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Sooner is better than later 'cause wood rot is gonna happen and ultimately be harder/more expensive to fix.
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DaveBell
Moderator
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# Posted: 17 Nov 2020 03:32pm - Edited by: DaveBell
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What is the length from the deck floor to the top of the porch posts in the picture? What is the length from the deck floor to the bottom of the gutter?
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DaveBell
Moderator
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# Posted: 17 Nov 2020 03:42pm
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When you put a long level on the deck, from the door towards the table, does it slope outwards, slope towards the door, or level? If it does not slope outwards by say 1/2 bubble, you may need to cover the whole deck. I see leaves jamming up between deck floor boards at your door. You may have three problems: driving rain, rain splash, and rain flow over the deck floor to the door and wall. Since the deck is near level with the barn floor, you may want to pull up the deck boards along the wall and cut one inch off long ways to allow water to fall before it hits the door and wall.
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DaveBell
Moderator
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# Posted: 17 Nov 2020 03:48pm
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In the first picture, the deck boards look a little higher than the threshold.
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spencerin
Member
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# Posted: 17 Nov 2020 08:23pm - Edited by: spencerin
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Can you replace the bottom/floor gasket somehow? I had a similar problem with a new pre-hung door. It turned out rain was making its way behind the gasket on the hinge side of the door, running down the inside of the frame through a sponge-like gasket at sill-level, into a small gap between the sill and the door frame, and onto the plywood subfloor. It took me a couple of times to figure out how it was happening, and I was able to fix it with a liberal application of caulk.
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mattd
Member
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# Posted: 19 Nov 2020 11:06am
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Quoting: DaveBell When you put a long level on the deck, from the door towards the table, does it slope outwards, slope towards the door, or level? If it does not slope outwards by say 1/2 bubble, you may need to cover the whole deck. I see leaves jamming up between deck floor boards at your door. You may have three problems: driving rain, rain splash, and rain flow over the deck floor to the door and wall. Since the deck is near level with the barn floor, you may want to pull up the deck boards along the wall and cut one inch off long ways to allow water to fall before it hits the door and wall.
It's slopes away, might not be as much as half a bubble.
There is a small gap between the deck rim joist and the deck board, but leaves are an issue. I agree with your 3 problems, and the solution. Had a pretty major table saw accident this past summer and still dont have the nerve to go back to it. Long cuts with a circle saw are always fun!
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mattd
Member
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# Posted: 19 Nov 2020 11:09am
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Quoting: spencerin Can you replace the bottom/floor gasket somehow? I had a similar problem with a new pre-hung door. It turned out rain was making its way behind the gasket on the hinge side of the door, running down the inside of the frame through a sponge-like gasket at sill-level, into a small gap between the sill and the door frame, and onto the plywood subfloor. It took me a couple of times to figure out how it was happening, and I was able to fix it with a liberal application of caulk.
This is exactly my issue. my original inquiry was if anyone new of a shorter threshold, because that rubber gasket is getting too smashed. I've gone the caulk at the corners route to solve that issue, and i could replace the rubber gasket, but there are obviously better solutions.
Thanks to everyone for hashing this out with me!
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Brettny
Member
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# Posted: 19 Nov 2020 12:11pm
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I dont think the pre hung door lower gasket lasted more than 2yrs on my HOme Depot door. Try changing the gasket first.
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gcrank1
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# Posted: 19 Nov 2020 12:16pm
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Considering this is a problem area for repeat wet I might think about making a new threshold out of some composite deck 'board' material rather than wood. If wood certainly the best pressure treated I could find.
I would think a planer could make it, if wood or composite, thinner to your spec pretty easy & quick.
Then do the outward bevel and use a heavy duty industrial type under door seal.
Have you looked at what is required for you to shorten up the door? There is likely a wooden inside framing that would need to be resealed (marine grade epoxy?) and the heavy duty door sweep/seal attached.
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